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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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0 

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la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

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cas:  le  symbole  — ^signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  y  signifie  "FIN". 

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et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
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illustrent  la  m6thode. 


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The 


j^CMGANr^NTRAL  RAILROAD 


'  The  Niagara  Falls  Route." 


Hi 
.',1  ■)• 


HENRY  B.  LEDYARD, 
President  and  General  Manager,  Detroit. 

A.  MACKAY, 
General  Freight  Agent,  Detroit. 


E.  C.  BROWN, 
General  Superintendent,  Detroit. 

O.  W.  RUGGLES, 

CJeneral  Passenger  and  Ticket  Agent,  Chicago. 


>    \ 


GENERAL  OFFICES: 

Michigan  Central  Passenger  Station,  foot  of  Third  Street,  Detroit. 

Grand  Central  Depot,  New  York  City. 

Adams  Express  Building,  Chicago. 


3 


"  The  Michigan  Central  is  the  only  real  '  Niagara  Palls  Route '  in  the  country. 
t  is  the  only  railroad  that  gives  a  satisfactory  view  of  the  Falls.  Every  day  train 
stops  from  five  to  ten  minutes  at  Falls  View,  which  is  what  the  name  indicates — 
a  splendid  point  from  which  to  view  the  great  cataract.  It  is  right  on  the  brink  of 
the  grand  canyon,  at  the  Canadian  end  of  the  Horseshoe,  and  every  part  of  the 
Falls  is  in  plain  sight.  Even  if  he  does  not  get  out  of  his  car,  he  can  see  the 
liquid  wonder  of  the  world  from  the  window  or  the  platform.  This  is  the  Michigan 
Central's  strongest  hold  on  popular  favor,  its  greatest  advantage,  its  chief  attraction. 
So  long  as  the  waters  of  that  mighty  river  thunder  down  to  the  awful  depths  below, 
so  long  as  the  rush  and  roar,  the  surge  and  foam,  and  prismatic  spray  of  nature's 
cataractic  masterpiece  remain,  to  delight  and  awe  the  human  soul,  thousands  and 
tens  of  thousands  of  beauty-lovers  and  grandeur-worshipers  will  journey  over  the 
only  railroad  from  which  it  can  be  seen.  There  is  but  one  Niagara  Falls  on  earth, 
and  but  one  direct  great  railway  to  it." — Col.  V.  Donan  in  St.  Louis  Spettatar. 


'^m 


mifSBirrv.- 


rt'- 


fjow  to  I^ee  Niagara. 

The  visitor  having  first  reached  his  hotel  as  the  basis  of  his  explorations,  he  should 
first,  by  means  of  this  map  and  the  descriptions  which  he  will  find  in  the  following  pages, 
some  of  which  he  njay  have  read  prior  to  his  arrival,  obtain  a  clear  idea  of  the  geography 
and  topography  of  the  Falls  and  surrounding  country.  He  should  then  take  Prospect 
Park  and  the  walk  up  the  Upper  Rapids  along  the  shore  of  the  Niagara  Reservation, 
passing  then  over  the  bridge  to  (loat  Island,  and  aroutTd  the  island  by  the  upper  s'ore  to 
the  Three  Sisters,  and  down  to  the  brink  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  returning  by  way  of 
Luna  Island. 

Having  thus  obtained  a  view  of  the  Falls  and  Rapids  from  above,  of  the  American  side, 
we  will  cross  the  Suspension  Foot  Bridge  and  go  up  through  the  Canadian  International 
Park  to  the  brink  of  the  Horseshoe,  reviewing  the  entire  face  of  the  great  cataract. 
Should  his  hotel  be  on  the  Canadian  side  he  will,  of  course,  reverse  this  programme.  He 
should  then  tiescend  to  the  Inclined  Railway  from  Prospect  Park,  viewing  the  American 
Fall  from  its  northern  end,  and  take  the  trip  by  the  "Maid  of  the  Mist"  to  the  Horse- 
shoe Fall,  returning  either  to  the  ferry  landing  on  the  Canada  side  or  to  his  point  of 
departure,  to  the  foot  of  the  Inclined  Railway.  The  Cave  of  the  Winds  should  be  visited 
by  means  of  Hiddel's  Stairs,  and  the  Horseshoe  Fall  below  Table  Rock.  This  done  with 
all  attending  details,  there  remain  the  picturesque  views  of  the  River  Gorge  below,  the 
Cantilever  and  Suspension  Bridges,  the  Whirlpool  Rapids,  and  the  Whirlpool  itself,  the 
magnificent  views  from  the  ancient  lake  terrace  at  Queenstown  Heights  or  above  Lewiston, 
and  from  the  high  bluffs  on  the  Canada  side,  where  Falls  View  overlooks  the  cataract.  In 
all  this  the  experienced  traveler  will  trust  tt)  his  own  legs  as  far  as  possible.  But  however 
thorough  a  pedestrian  he  may  be,  he  must  still  avail  himself  of  other  means  of  locomotion, 
and  in  spite  of  contrary  rumor  he  will  find  hack  and  other  fares  quite  as  reasonable  here 
as  at  other  places  of  resort. 

Admission  Fees  and  Tolls. 

Cave  of  the  Winds  (with  guide  and  dress) $i  oo 

Inclined  Railway  (Prospect  Park) lo 

Behind  Hortieshoe  Falls,  with  guide  and  dress,  Canada  side 50 

Museum 50 

Whirlpool  Rapids  (either  side) 50 

Wliirlpool  (either  side) 50 

Crossing  New  .Suspension  Bridge ...  25 

Crossing  New  Suspension  Bridge,  extra  for  two-horse  carriage 25 

Crossing  Railway  Suspension  Bridge  (orer  and  return)         10 

Crossing  Railway  Suspension  Bridge,  extra  for  two-horse  carriage    25 

Ride  in  van  around  Goat  Island 10 

Ride  in  van  around  the  entire  reservation,  with  privilege  of  stopping  ofF  at  anv  or  every  point  of   interest, 

and  continuing  the  ride  in  following  vans  25 

"  Maid  of  the  Mist,"  from  foot  of  Inchned  Railway  to  Horseshoe  Falls,  landing    on  Canada  side    and 


return 


50 


Niagara  Falls  and  Suspension  Bridge  Street  Railway  Company,  from  Soldiers'  Monument,  Niagara  Falls, 
to  Suspension  Bridge,  fare  5  cents 

Round  trip  to  the  Whirlpool  l^Apids,  Canada  side,  via  old  Suspension  Bridge  and  horse-car  line 53 

Round  trip  to  Whirlpool  R  .:'i  !■ .  Ainerican  side,  via  cars 45 

Round  trip  to  Whirlpool,  A>as  ^can  side,  via  horse-car  and  transfer  carriages 55 

Rates  of  Fare  Allowed  by  Law  in  the  Village  of  Niagfara  Falls,  N.  Y. 

For  the  Use  and  Hire  of  Carriages  where  no  express  contract  is  made  therefor. 

For  carrying  one  passenger  and  ordinary  baggage  from  one  place  to  another  in  the  village (o  50 

Each  additional  passenger  and  ordinary  baggage 25 

For  carrying  one  passenger  and  ordinary  baggage  from  any  point  in  this  village  to  any  point  in  the 

village  of  Suspension  Bridge i  00 

Each  additional  passenger  and  ordinary  baggage 50 

Each  additional  piece  of  baggage,  other  than  ordinary  baggage i3 

Children  under  tliree  years  of  age,  free. 

Over  three  years  and  under  fourteen  years,  half  price. 

Ordinary  baggage  is  defined  to  be  one  trunk  and  one  bag,  hat  or  bandbox,  or  other  small  parcel. 

For  carrying  one  or  more  passengers,  in  the  same  carriage,  from  any  point  in  this  village  to  any  p)oint 
within  five  miles  of  the  limits  of  the  villagfe,  at  the  rate  of  $1.50  for  each  hour  occupied,  except  that  in  every 
instance  where  such  carriage  shall  be  drawn  by  a  single  horse  the  fare  therefor  shall  be  at  the  rate  of  $1  for 
each  hour  occupied. 


Vli^- 


-  ''■  w^wwi  HUSH  nmuiwiit- 


liurning  Spring 


Kilt,  IMU),  by  lUmi.  MuKally  A.  to.,  Uap  fuUluhura,  Lhiuuco. 


J^ 


?b 


Table  of  Contents. 


"  The  Niagara  Falls  Route,"  from  Citv  to  Surf, ''"" 

Niagara  Falls,  by  Anthony  Trollope,   -        .        ! ^ 

Niagara,  by  Henry  Howard  Brownell,      -        . ^ 

Niagara  Falls,  by  George  Wm.  Frederick  Howard,  Earl  of  Derby,     "    -  ci 

Niagara,  by  William  C.  Richards, 

Voyage  au  Niagara,  par  Charles  Bigot, .  l^ 

Le  Niagara,  PoIimk  par  Louis  Frechette, g, 

EiN  Besuch  der  Niagara-Falle,  von  Frederick  Bodenstedt,       -        -        -  65 

Niagara,  Gedicht  von  Frederick  Bodenstedt g- 

The  Cantilever  Bridge,  and  How  it  was  Built,  - gg 

Niagara  in  Winter,  by  Halley,  Taylor  and  Tissandier,        -        -        -        -  73 

The  St.  Lawrence  River. 

-------70 

The  Adirondacks.      •     -        .        .  ' 

From  Albany  to  Boston,  ---..... 

The  White  Mountains.         ... 

The  Luxury  of  Travel.    ... 

'  -        .       100 


Z^y^  THE  BEST- 

^  ACCIDENTS   OF  * 

Travel.  Sport,  or  Business 

»WE  INSURKD  »a»IN«T  BY 


M:  ^-'^■-iii^ 


^^^ 


-Ar- 


P\lM 


Aoeident  Company  of  Amerfca, 

Largest  in  the  World;       W 

I  BEST  OF  LIFECOMPANIESM 

Rates  as  low  as  mill  permanently  aecurel 
FULL  PAWEKT  of  policies.  I 

European  Travel  and  Residence 
'  permitted  without  extra  charge. 

1  On  ACCinEST rOLICISS  the  Full 
^Principal  Sum  -will  be  paid  In  case 
\  of  loss  of  both  feet,  both  hands,  a 
\  hand  and  a  foot,  or  the  entire  sight 
\  of  both  eyes,  by  accident. 

One-Third  the  Principal  Sum  wiU 
\  -be  paid  for  loss  of  a  single  hand 

or  foot. 

.Baa  Heaourrem  to  pay  AT  OITCE 
I  tfc«  moat  eitortnoua  tnaaa  of  claims 
I  that  even  great  railroad  and 
I  ateamboat  aeeidenta  can  bring 
I  upon  it.  Pays  AI'Ii  CI^AIMB  *m- 
'  mediately  on  receipt  of  aatiafae- 
r  *ory  proofa.  All  poHeiea  eoutain 
liberal  Jf on- forfeiture  jroviaiona. 

a.   BATTCIISON.   puts.  ROOMtK    OBHUI*.   SlC. 

JOHN  C.  MORiii*.  AwrttKe. 


—■  A.ociP»*y  Js  Tyrmcj 


The  Travelers 


r>- — -!^Ksa-aiw____ 


Chicago  from  the  Laka. 


"THE  NIAGARA  FALLS  ROUTE" 


FROM   CITY   TO   SURF. 


UVE  times  a  day  one  may  see  a  throng  of  travelers  gathered  within  the 
walls  of  the  Michigan  Central  Passenger  Station,  at.  the  foot  of  Lake 
Street,    in   Chicago,  as   the   hour  approaches   for  one  of  the   finely 
appointed  express  trains  of  this  favorite  line  to  pull  out  on  its  rapid 
journey  to  the  rising  sun.     All  classes  of  the  popuhition  are  found 
there,  and   representatives  of  every  nation  and  every  people  of  the 
globe  ;  but,  in  the  summer-time,  from  the  first  appearance  of  civic  dust 
and  heat,  the  predominating  element  is  the  summer  tourist,— quiet,  well 
dressed,  intelligent,  knowing  the  best  places  to  go  to  and  the  best  means  of 
getting  there.     For  the  American,  man  or  woman,  is  a  traveler,  and  knows 
how  to  travel,  and,  finding  himself  or  herself  at  that  wonderful  centre  of  teeming 
life  and  industry,  the  Garden  City  of  the  Lakes,  goes  eastward  by  the  Michigan 
Central,  "  The  Niagara  Falls  Route,"  to  the  thousand  places  of  natural  beauty  and  sub- 
limity, of  fashion,  of  health  and  of  trade,  that  crowd  the  eastern  and  northern  portions  of 
our  country.     And  grouped  here  about  the  long  train  of  superb  coaches  led  by  the  iron 
horse  of  glossy  coat,  powerful,  and  quivering  in  readiness  for  the  race  like  a  thing  of  life, 
the  scene  is  one  of  interesting  activity.     The  pyramid  of  baggage  rapidly  disappears  in 
the  portals  of  the  capacious  baggage  car;  the  uniformed  conductor  shouts  "All  aboard  !  " 
the  last  farewells  are  hastily  spoken  ;  the  iron  horse  snorts  as  he  leaps  forward  toward  the 
mountains  and  the  sea,  and  off  we  go. 

The  traveler  usually  sees  but  the  seamy  side  of  the  cities  he  passes  through  by  rail.  Not 
so  of  Chicago,  as  he  looks  through  the  clear  plate-glass  of  the  Wagner  Palace  Cars  of 
the  Michigan  Central.     For  miles,  as  he  speeds  rapidly  along,  he  sees  on  the  one  side  the 
lovely  lake,  placid,  rippled  or  storm-tossed,  according  to  its  varying  moods  ;  on  the  other, 
verdant  lawns  and  blooming  parterres,  palatial  mansions  and  villas  half  hidden  in  trees  and 

(») 


i  I  iiniimiMiinaagJWP''^ 


10 


FROM   CITY  TO   SURF. 


shrubbery,  telling  of  the  wealth,  the  luxury  and  the  taste  of  the  wonderful  city  arisen  from 
its  ashes.  Then  come  the  charming  suburbs  of  Hyde  Park  and  Woodlawn  Park,  the  busy, 
interesting  town  of   Pullman,  on  Calumet  Lake,  and  then  the  broad  expanse  of  level 

country.  We  have  a  chance  now  to  look  about  us, 
and,  though  the  softly-cushioned  seats  of  our  ele- 
gant coach,  replete  with  all  the 
comforts  and  conveniences  that 
ingenuity  can  suggest  and  skill 
can  furnish,  woo  us  to  luxurious 
rest,  we  hunger,  as  do  all  travel- 
ers, and  seek  the  Dining  Car.  We 
find  it  a  palatial  hotel  on  wheels, 
with  all  its  appointments  elegant 
and  tasteful,  scrupulously  neat  and 
clean.  The  accomplished  chef  pre- 
pares, and  the  active  waiters  serve,  a  sump, 
tuous  and  admirable  meal  that  incites  us  to 
valiant  trencher  duty.  We  linger  long  at  table,  for 
the  pleasure  of  a  good  dinner  is  enhanced  by  the  charming  panorama  that  glides  swiftly 
by,  and  adjourn  to  the  comfortable  smoking-room  of  our 
palatial  Sleeper  to  crown  our  enjoyment  with  the 
reveries  of  a  cigar  from  the  Dining  Car's  superbly 
stocked  coffers. 

At  Michigan  City  (fifty-eight  miles  from  Chicago) 
we  get  picturesque  glimpses  of  Lake  Michigan,  bordered 
by  curious  lofty  sand-dunes,  and  with  a  sturdy-looking 
light-house  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor.  Ten  miles 
farther  we  take  our  last  view  of  the  great  lake  at  New 
Buffalo,  worthy  of  note  only  as  the  junction  of  the 
Chicago  &  West  Michigan  Railway,  which  takes  through 
cars  and  sleepers  of  the  Michigan  Central  through  the 
great  fruit  region  of  Michigan  to  Grand  Rapids  and 
Muskegon,  famous  for  their  furniture  factories,  plaster 
quarries  and  lumber  yards.  Three  Oaks  (seventy-five 
miles)  is  a  handsome,  prosperous  village,  with  encour- 
aging manufacturing  prospects,  developed  by  the 
famous  featherbone  in.dustry.  Passing  Buchanan,  we 
soon  reach  Niles,  on  the  St.  Joseph  River,  a  handsome 

and  well-built  manufacturing  city  of  nearly  5,000  inhab-  a  GiimpM  of  •  Dining  cu. 

itants,  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  agricultural  region.  The  Air  Line  Division  to  Jackson 
diverges  here,  and  upon  it,  two  miles  beyond  the  town  of  Cassopolis,  is  the  summer  resort 
of  Diamond  Lake,  full  of   natural  beauty,  with  an  emerald  isle  rising  from  its  crystal 


'THE   NIAGARA   FALLS    ROUTE." 


11 


'  arisen  from 
rk,  the  busy, 
^nse  of  level 
)ok  about  us, 
s  of  our  ele- 

with  all  the 
eniences  that 
rest  and  skill 
5  to  luxurious 

do  all  travel- 
ing Car.     We 
:el  on  wheels, 
ments  elegant 
3usly  neat  and 
ished  chef  pre- 
serve, a  sump. 
It  incites  us  to 
ig  at  table,  for 

glides  swiftly 


Dining  C*r. 

ion  to  Jackson 

summer  resort 

rom  its  crystal 


depths.  From  Dowagiac  (107  miles)  stages  run  to  Sister  Lakes,  a  delightful  summering 
place,  ten  miles  from  the  railroad.  The  hotel  and  cottages  are  located  on  an  elevated  pen- 
insula between  Round  and  Crooked  Lakes,  covered  wflh  magnificent  shade  trees  of  the 
original  forest.     It  is  a  favorite  resort  for  the  families  of  city  business  men,  being  within 

reach  of  Sunday  visits,  and  marked 
by  freedom,  comfort  and  refine- 
ment. As  we  pass  on  through 
Michigan,  we  find  all  the  way  to 
Detroit  River  a  rolling  and  pictur- 
esque country,  full  of  fine  farms, 
pretty  villages  and  prosperous 
towns,  with  neat  stations  along  the 
line.  The  country  that  the  first 
surveyors  pronounced  utterly  unfit 
for  settlement  and  habitation  has 
proved,  under  intelligent  agricul- 
ture, to  be  of  wonderful  fertility. 
Kalamazoo  (142  miles),  a  re- 
cently incorporated  city,  with  14,000  inhabitants,  is  regu- 
larly laid  out,  with  broad,  well-shaded  streets,  and  contains  many 
fine  business  blocks,  costly  residences  and  numerous  manufactories, 
which,  in  1886.  turned  out  products  valued  at  more  than  $6,000,000. 
The  spacious  and  imposing  buildings  of  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  a 
Baptist  College  and  Female  Seminary  are  located  here.  Nowhere  does  celery  grow 
larger,  whiter,  more 
tender  or  more  delicate 
in  flavor  than  in  the  deep 
black  soil  about  the  city, 
and  nowhere  is  that  tooth- 
some vegetable  grown  more 
extensively.  The  Grand 
Rapids  &  Indiana  Railroad 

crosses     the    line    at    this  ._^^__«^  -     ^ 

point,  and  a  branch  of  the      '^^'^^IKP^*''***^^  "*'**"'*"  ^•"*'*'  ^'•*°"'  •*•'•"•""»• 
Michigan  Central  runs  out  forty  miles  to  South  Haven,  a  charming  summer  resort 
on  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan. 

Battle  Creek  (165  miles)  is  a  well  built  city  of  10,000  inhabitants,  at  the  confluence 
of  Battle  Creek  and  Kalamazoo  River.  It  is  famous  for  its  splendid  water-power  and  its 
manufactures, — particularly  of  carriages,  wagons,  threshing  machines,  agricultural  imple- 
ments and  flour, — which  are  more  extensive  than  those  of  any  other  town  of  its  size  in  the 
world.  It  is  also  the  headquarters  of  the  Seventh-day  Adventists,  who  have  here  their 
large  publishing  house,  printing  books,  newspapers  and  periodicals  in  a  dozen  languages. 


THE  nia(;ara  falls  routk. 


18 


m 


Vt 


o 
o 


o 

Si 


^.■> 


c 
o 


^.—i-.m 


an  excellent  college  and  a  magnificent   sanitarium   i)f   high    repute,  occupying  a  noble, 
elevated  site. 

Marshall  (178  miles)  is  a  pretty  little  city  of  4,000,  famous  for  its  flour,  for  the  valley 
of  the  Kalamazoo  is  a  noted  wheat  region.  Some  of  the  finest  stock-farms  in  the  State 
are  in  this  vicinity,  and  the  herds 
of  magnificent  thoroughbred  horses, 
cattle  and  sheep,  with  pedigrees  of 
royal  length,  are  beautiful  to  behold. 
Albion  (190  miles)  is  pleasantly  lo- 
cated at  the  confluence  of  the  two 
branches  of  the  Kalamazoo,  in  one 
of  the  richest  farming  sections  of  the 
State,  ships  flour  of  a  high  reputa- 
tion, and  is  the  site  of  an  excellent 
Methodist  Episcopal  College.  We 
leave  the  river  at  Parma  (199  miles), 
and  in  a  few  minutes  stop  at  Jackson 
(2io  miles),  a  busy  manufacturing  city  of  over  20,000  people,  on  the  Grand  River,  at  the 
intersection  of  six  railroads.  One  division  of  the  Michigan  Central  runs  down  the  valley 
of  this  river,  ninety-four  miles  to  Grand  Rapids,  the  second  city  of  the  State,  while  another 
runs  northward,  through  Lansing,  the  State  capital,  to  Saginaw,  Bay  City  and  Mackinaw, 


Summer  CotUgtt  tt  South  Htvtn. 


MIehlgan  Cmlral  PuMngar  Station  it  Jaokaon. 

on  the  strait  of  the  same  name;  and  a  third  forms  the  Air  Line  to  Niles,  running  through 
the  thriving  towns  of  Homer,  Union  City,  Three  Rivers  and  Cassopolis.  Through  cars  from 
Detroit  run  over  the  former,  and  from  Chicago  over  the  second.  The  city  is  regularly  laid 
out,  and  substantially  built.     It  lies  near  the  edge  of  the  coal  deposits  of  the  State,  and 


■•-rr'-^rwa^*!.*"-  \T\ 


W 


) 

u 


toitlilli 


ammaims^tt^iii^'- 


"»W 


im 


r-, 


Am 


"THK    NIAGARA    KAI.IS    ROUTE. 


16 


the  mines  cuii  be  (teen  from  the  curs.  The  spacious  stone  buildings  of  the  State  Peniten- 
tiary are  located  here,  and  are  well  worth  visiting,  the  institution  being  a  model  one  in  all 
respects.  The  Michigan  tlentral  Passenger  Station  hert-  was  the  finest  in  the  State,  until 
the  construction  of  the  company's  fir.e  building  in  Hetroit. 

Ann  Arbok  (34K  miles)  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  Huron  River,  has  a  population  of 
8,000,  and  is  noted  as  the  site  of  the  University  of  Michigan.  This  is  one  of  the  leading 
institutions   of    learning 


in  the  West,  and,  with 
no  distinction  of  .sex, 
very  low  fees,  and  a  high 
standard  of  scholarship, 
attracts  students  from 
ail  parts  of  the  country. 
It  has  eighty-three  pro- 
fessors, and  1,380  stu- 
dents in  all  its  depart- 
ments, under  the  presi- 
dency of  Prof.  James 
B.  Angell,  LL.  J).  The 
grounds    are    extensive. 


UnlvMlly  of  MichigM. 


and  thickly  planted  with  trees.  University  Hall,  occupied  by  the  departments  of  literature, 
science  and  art,  is  347  feet  long  and  140  feet  deep.  There  are  numerous  other  buildings, 
including  a  new  fire-proof  library,  large  and  valuable  museums,  and,  on  a  hill  a  mile 
distant,  a  fine  observatory,  but  no  dormitories.     The  Union  School  building  is  one  of  the 

finest  in  the  State,  and  accom- 
modates a  thousand  pupils. 
There  are  five  mineral  springs 
in  the  city,  over  one  of  which 
has  been  erected  a  large 
water-cure  establishment,  an 
opera  house  and  several  fine 
churches.  The  new  Michi- 
gan Central  Passenger  Sta- 
tion, recently  built  of  lime- 
stone, is  one  of  the  finest 
specimens  of  modern  architecture  applied  to  railroad  structures.  Leaving;  Ann  Arbor,  the 
train  follows  and  frequently  crosses  the  Huron  River,  the — 

"  Bright,  swift  river  of  the  birch  canoe, 
Threading  the  prairie  ponds  of  Washtenung," — 

affording  many  snatches  of  lovely  scenery,  despite  the  rapidity  with  which  it  passes  them. 

Ypsilanti  (256  miles)  is  a  thriving  city  of  5,300  inhabitants,  noted  for  its  extensive 

flour  and  paper  mills  and  other  factories,  its  valuable  saline  springs  and  excellent  sanitarium. 


"""^^^^ 


A^^nAtooiq 


le 


FROM    (IIY    l()    SURF. 


Ik.-":'. 


'■^wv 


The  State  Normal  School,  with  nearly  cijjht  hundred  HtudentH,  is  located  here,  and  here 
aUo  many  Detroit  business  men  huve  their  suburban  homes.  'I'he  city  \h  prettily  located 
on  the  Huron  River,  which  affords  ample  water-|)ower  and  lovely  bits  of  scenery. 

Df.tkoi  r  (385  miles)  is  reached  in  another  hour,  and  the  traveler  finds  it  a  flourishing, 
prosperous  city  of  150,000  inhabitants,  whose  seven  miles  of  magnificent  water  front,  lined 
with  shipping  and  crowded  with  gigantic  elevators,  clanging  foundries  and  smoke-plumed 
furnaces,  give  ample  reason  for  the  fine  business  blocks,  imposing  public  buildings,  elegant 
churches,  and  magnificent  broad  avenues  of  palatial  residences  not  always  found  in  cities 

of  more  pretension,  'i'he  central 
point  of  the  city,  from  which  the 
avenues  radiate,  is  the  Campus  Mar- 
tius,  where  stood  the  old  frontier  fort 
built  by  Cadillac  in  1701,  and  in 
which  Pontiac  besieged  the  English 
for  eleven  months, —  surrendered  by 
Hull,  and  won  again  by  Harrison. 
Facing  it  is  the  City  Hall,  a  hand- 
some structure  in  the  Italian  style, 
ornamented  by  marble  statues  of 
men  famous  in  the  long  and  event- 
ful annals  of  the  city.  Opposite  is 
a  fine  monument  in  granite  and 
bronze  to  the  memory  of  Michigan's 
dead  in  the  war  of  the  rebellion, 
and  an  artistic  drinking  fountain  pre- 
sented to  the  city  by  ex-Governor 
Bagley,  to  whom  Michigan  owes  no 
inconsiderable  portion  of  her  fame  and  prosperity.  The  guide  book  states  that  "  the  freight 
depot  of  the  Michigan  Central  is  one  of  the  most  noteworthy  structures  in  the  city.  It 
stands  on  the  wharf,  and  consists  of  a  single  room  1,250  feet  long,  and  lo;^  feet  wide, 
covered  by  a  self-sustaining  roof  of  corrugated  iron."  The  new  Passenger  Station  of  the 
same  road  is  probably  the  finest  building  of  its  kind  in  the  State,  and  is  one  of  the 
architectural  features  of  the  city.  The  visitor  to  Detroit  should  not  omit  the  United 
States  Marine  Hospital,  just  above  the  city,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Canada 
shore;  Fort  Wayne,  a  bastioned  redoubt  on  the  river  bank  three  miles  below;  Belle  Isle, 


^VMr.^ 


||[;hi(jAn(lntfml 


n  n  n  o  I T 


5^:>^i\v*' 


■meansmBMBK 


IHK    NIAGARA  FALLS   ROUTE." 


ir 


re,  ami  here 
etlily  located 
ery. 

u  nourishing, 
;r  front,  lined 
moke-plumed 
linj;*.  elegant 
:)un(l  in  citie* 
The   central 
,in   which  the 
Campus  Mar- 
id  frontier  fort 
1 70 1,   and  in 
d  the  English 
surrendered  by 
»  by  Harrison. 
Hall,  a  hand- 
e  Italian  style, 
ble    statues   of 
ong  and  event- 
y.     Opposite  is 
n    granite    and 
y  of  Michigan's 
the   rebellion, 
ing  fountain  pre- 
by  ex-Governor 
chigan  owes  no 
that "  the  freight 
in  the  city.    It 
1  lou  feet  wide, 
er  Station  of  the 
d  is  one  of  the 
omit  the  United 
of  the  Canada 
elow;  Belle  Isle, 


the  city'H  beautiful  iHland  park;  and  GroHse  Point,  where  many  wealthy  citizens  have  built 
magnificent  homes,  seven  miles  above  the  city,  at  the  end  of  a  beautiful  drive. 

At  Detroit  close  connection  is  made  in  the  company's  magnificent  I'assenger  Station  at 
the  foot  of  Third  Street  with  its  Hay  t'ity  and  Mackinaw  Divisions,  which  run  290  miles 
northward  to  the  straits,  the  Toledo  Division  bringing  more  passengers  from  St.  Louis, 
Cincinnat  and  the  South,  and  with  the  Flint  Ik.  Fere  Marquette  and  Detroit,  Lansing  & 
Northern  roads,  which  traverse  the  State  to  the  northwestward.  Here  another  Palace 
Sleeping  Cat  for  New  York  or  for  Doston  is  attached  to  the  long  train  that  our  unwearying 
courser  pulls  along  with  seeming  ease.  On  gigantic  ferry-boats  of  steel,  propelled  by  the 
most  powerful  engines,  we  cross  the  great  river,  picturescjue  with  its  busy  craft.  The 
officers  of  Her  Majesty's  Customs  pass  through  the  cars;  but  their  sole  duty  seems  that 
of  hurriedly  but  courteously  affixing  to  each  piece  of  baggage  the  little  label  that  passes 
it  free  of  search  or  duty  through  Her  Majesty's  loyal  Dominion.  Meanwhile  we  take 
advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  mount  the  hurricane-deck  of  the 
steamer  and  enjoy  the  animated  scene  the  broad  estuary  offers, 
hearing  on  its  bosom  every  variety  of  sail  and  steam  craft,  and 
bordered  for  miles  by  the  attractive  city  front,  from  which  we  can 
faintly  hear  the  clang  of  its  numerous  foundries  and  machine 
shops.  Far  below  are  the  ramparts  of  Fort  Wayne,  with  the 
old  windmill  of  Sandwich  opposite.  Far  above  are  the  wooded 
shores  of  Grosse  Point  and  Belle  Isle. 

Wonderful  speed  we  make  through  Canada  over  the  long 
tangents;  but  so  smooth  are  the  steel  rails  and  so  perfect  is  the  con- 
struction of  the  cars  that  we  find  no  unpleasant  jarring  as  we  read 
our  paper  or  our  book.  And,  however  great  the  speed,  there  is  the  utmost  safety.  The 
Michigan  Central  has  always  enjoyed  a  singular  immunity  from  serious  accidents, — an 
immunity  due  not  merely  to  good  luck,  but  to  perfect  construction,  admirable  discipline 
and  incessant  watchfulness.  Science  has  invented  a  hundred  curious  automatic  devices 
that  stand  between  us  and  danger,  and  the  vigilance  of  the  man  at  the  throttle  is  unabated. 

We  enter  St.  Thomas  (398  miles)  over  the  ravine  of  Kettle  Creek,  by  a  long,  high  iron 
viaduct  that  has  replaced  the  wooden  structure  portrayed  in  Picturesque  Canada.  It  is  a 
prosperous  and  handsome  town  of  1 2,000  inhabitants,  about  half  way  between  the  Detroit 
and  Niagara  Rivers.  It  owes  its  prosperity  to  its  railroad  facilities,  and  easy  access  to 
Port  Stanley,  only  eight  miles  distant,  the  chief  harbor  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Erie. 
The  city  is  built  on  an  escarpment  of  considerable  elevation,  and  from  its  western  edge 


r*C-^--S«'/i»  ^> 


n. 


^ 


MMM 


■18> 


"THE   NIAGARA   FALLS    ROUTE." 


19 


« 

3 
C 
« 


t 

-o 

O 

o 


o 
o 


41*: 


»•''! 


E 

o 


o 

o 


> 

o 

>> 
o 

■2 
iS 


-commands  a  magnificent  outlook.  "  As  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  country  villas  and  trim 
farmsteads  stand  out  in  relief  against  graceful  bits  of  wildwood,  or  are  only  half  concealed 
by  plantations  of  spruce  and  arbor-vitae.  Intervening  are  broad  stretches  of  meadow  or 
long  rolling  billows  of  harvest  land.  Down  in  the  deep  ravine  at  our  feet 
winds  a  beautiful  stream,  which  has  all  the  essentials  of  romance,  except 
the  name."  The  St.  Clair  Division  of  the  Michigan  Central  diverges 
here,  and  here  also   the  Toronto  sleeper 


Th«  Canal  and  the  Railroad. 


-**^iSS^J^^^i^ 


that  has  accompanied  us  from  Chicago  is 
taken  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  and  carried 
to  Toronto,  the  Ontario  metropolis.  At 
Toronto  Junction  it  connects  with  a  mag- 
nificent Parlor  Car  running  through,  via 
Peterborough  and  Ottawa,  and  down  the  wild-rushing  Ottawa  River  to  Montreal  and 
also  with  other  cars  for  that  wild  and  lovely  region  of  the  Muskoka  Lakes,  a  very  paradise 
for   the    angler,   the    sportsman  and  the  lover  of  the  untamed  L::auties  of  nature. 

Meanwhile,  by  day  or  by  night,  we  hasten  onward  to  meet  again  the  waters  we  saw  at 
Chicago's  front,  and  flowing  majestically  past  Michigan's  chief  city,  Detroit.     At  Hagers- 

viLLE  (457  miles),  a  neat  little 
town  of  i.ooo  inhabitants,  con- 
nection is  made  with  the  North- 
ern and  Northwestern  Rail- 
ways for  Hamilton  and  points 
North  up  in  the  Muskoka, 
Nipissin^  and  Simcoe  Lake 
region.  At  Welland  (498 
miles)  we  cross  the  famous  ship 
canal  which  has  made  possible 
the  carriage  of  grain  from  Chi- 
cago to  Liverpool  without 
breaking  bulk,  and,  seeing  the 
lumbering  old  craft  in  its  basins, 
inwardly  contrast  the  old  with 
the  new.  Ten  miles  farther  the 
Michigan  Central  has  very  ex- 
tensive yards  at  Montrose  (508 
miles),  where  is  handled  the 
immense  quantity  of  freight  brought  into  and  through  Canada  by  the  Niagara  frontier. 
A  few  minutes'  ride  from  Montrose  the  train  comes  to  the  bank  of  Niagara  River,  and 
stops  at  Falls  View,  nearly  two  hundred  feet  above,  and  almost  over  the  brink  of  the 
Horseshoe  Fall.  The  passengers  may  alight,  and  walk  to  the  edge  of  the  bluff,  or  enjoy  the 
scene  from  the  car  windows  or  platforms.  The  view  is  incomparably  grand,  and  the  most 
■comprehensive  to  be  had  from  any  single  point.     The  eye  reaches  far  up  the  placid  river 


mmM 


'5 ,  im^ 


■Ai'^i )  J  J..  ,.1-  -I- 


M 
m 


'^'tsw:- 


(») 


'-7^-^.-=^sA^i^^0aai^ 


ffftM!tim\,.mm'im^'^'vm>m 


--  iiiWWlHlilJWIiliWWWWBiWWBIS 


THE    NIAGARA   FALLS    ROUTE." 


21 


.i 


V 

> 

s 

is 
a 


upon  either  side  of  Grand  Island  before  the  water  breaks  into  the  surjring,  angrj'  rapids  that 
rush  impetuously  to  the  brink  of  the  dread  abyss.  Across  the  boiling  caldron  below  we  see 
the  rich,  snowy  tracery  of  the  American  Fall;  in  mid-river  the  forest-covered  Goat  Island^ 
and  directly  below  the  grand  curvo  -if  the  Horseshoe,  over  which  pours  the  emerald  flood. 
Its  deep  diapason  fills  the  air  and  shakes  the  earth,  and  from  the  unseen  depths  rises  ever 
the  column  and  cloud  of  many-tinted  spray,  dissolving  slowly  as  ,t  soars  heavenward. 

At  this  point  the  Michigan  Central  will   erect  a  building  of    large  proportions  and 
of  an  architectural  character  entirely  in  har-  ^^./r^        -•:!?'"*?*>i 

mony  with   its  purpose  and  surroundings, 
that  will  add  greatly  to  the  convenience 
and  enjoyment  of  travelers.    This  place 
was  formerly  known  as  Inspiration  Point, 
and  of  the  scene  from  it  Howells  wrote : 
"By  all   odds,  the    most    tremendous 
view  of  the  Falls  is  afforded  by 
the  point  on  this  drive  (from 
the  Clifton  House  to  the  Burn- 
ing Spring),  whence   you  look 
down   on  the  Horseshoe,  and 
behold  its  three  massive  walls 
of  sea  rounding  and  sweeping 
into  the  gulf  together." 

A  little  way  down  the  river 
is   Niagara    Falls,    Ont.    (511 
miles),  where,  on  a  bold  projection  of 
the    river   bank,    are   the    Prospect    and 
Clifton  Houses,   from  which  very  extensive 
and  impressive  views  are  obtained  of  the  whole 
amphitheatre  and  its  rocky  and  aqueous  walls.    Just 
before  reaching  this  station,  the  traveler  who  is  on 
the  lookout  for  it  catches  a  most  charming  glimpse 

of  the  snowy  American  Fall  through  the  leafy  vista  *  '^^'"v  of  th«  American  F.11. 
of  a  sunken  road.  From  a  point  near  the  Clifton,  stretches  the  gossamer 
thread  of  a  suspension  foot-bridge  1,268  feet  long  to  the  American  side  of  the  river,  and 
of  the  views  from  which  Howells  gives  an  admirable  description  in  TAeir  Wedding  Journey. 
A  short  distance  below  the  station  is  Wesley  Park,  a  kind  of  Canadian  or  International 
Chautauqua.  From  Falls  View  to  Clifton  (512.5  miles)  the  road  passes  along  and 
through  the  International  Park  now  being  laid  out  by  the  Canadian  Commissioners.  Here 
diverges  the  Niagara  Division  of  the  Michigan  Central,  which  runs  down  the  river  to 
Niagara  on  the  Lake,  and  there  connects  with  steamers  across  Lake  Ontario  to  Toronto. 
One  of  the  most  charming  outings  for  the  citizens  of  Buffalo  or  sojourners  there  is  had 
by  taking  one  of  the  double  daily  trains  on  this  Niagara  Division  at  the  Union  Depot  or 


'^wnyy,' 


if 


S2 


FROM   CITY   TO   SURF. 


Black  Rock,  crossing  the  International  Bridge,  and  following  the  Canadian  shore  of  the 
river,  passing  Chippewa  and  Lundy's  Lane,  stopping  at  Falls  View,  following  the  river 
caflon  to  the  Cantilever  Bridge  at  Clifton,  then  making  a  detour  through  the  hills  to 
Queenston,  within  sight  of  Brock's  monument,  on  the  heights,  and  finally  taking  the 
delightful  sail  across  the  lake  to  Toronto.  Niagara-on-the-Lake  makes  little  noise  in 
the  world;  but  is  one  of  those  thoroughly 
enjoyable  summer  resorts  that  sensible 
people  always  like  to  return  to.  Its  loca- 
tion is  charming,  the  excellent  drives  in 
the  vicinity  are  through  a  rich  and  beauti- 
ful country,  and  boating,  fishing  and  bath- 
ing may  be  enjoyed  without  end.  Across 
the  river  is  Fort  Niagara,  one  of  the  oldest  cmtiievtr  Bridg*. 

fortifications  in  the  United  States,  and  still  garrisoned;  and  but  a  short  distance  on  the 
Michigan  Central  is  Paradise  Grove,  a  favorite  resort  for  a  day's  outing. 

Continuing  on  the  main  line,  we  cross  the  cafion  of  Niagara  River  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  above  "  the  angriest  bit  of  water  in  the  world,"  by  the  Cantilever  Bridge,  one  of  the 
most  famous  triumphs  of  modern  engineering  skill  and  daring.  It  is  895  feet  in  length, 
built  wholly  of  thoroughly  tested  steel,  and,  slight  as  it  is  in  appearance,  sustained  upon  its 

double  tracks,  when 
tested,  the  enormous 
weight  of  eighteen 
locomotives  and 
twenty.four  heavily 
loaded  gravel  cars,, 
with  a  temporary 
deflection  of  but  six 
inches.  It  is  un- 
doubtedly one  of 
the  strongest  and 
safest  bridges  in  the 
country.  In  pass- 
ing over  it,  there  is, 
a  magnificent  view 
of  the  Falls,  the 
Rapids  and  the 
Fath.r  H*nntpin't  Sketch,  1698.  rocky  walls  between 

which  the  surging  waters  pour,  while  below  are  seen  the  Lower  Rapids  and  the  Suspen- 
sion Bridge. 

At  Suspension  Bridge  (513  miles)  connection  is  made  with  the  Niagara  Falls  Division 
of  the  New  York  Central,  running  to  Rochester,  via  Lockport,  and  with  the  Rome,  Water- 
town  &  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  whose  Sleeping  Cars  run  through  from  Niagara  Falls  to- 


THE    NIAGARA   FALLS   ROUTE." 


23 


re  of  the 
;  the  river 
le  hills  to 
aking  the 
;   noise  in 


ance  on  the 

red  and  fifty 

>,  one  of  the 

et  in  length, 

ned  upon  its 

tracks,  when 

the  enormous 
of   eighteen 

stives        and 
four  heavily 
gravel   cars, 
I    temporary 
ion  of  but  six 
It  is    un- 
:dly    one     of 
rongest    and 
bridges  in  the 
:y.     In  pass- 
er it,  there  is 
rnificent  view 
,e    Falls,    the 
and     the 
I  walls  between 
Id  the  Suspen- 

Falls  Division 
Rome,  Water- 
iagara  Falls  to- 


ifinr  fHfL.  I 


Clayton,  near  the  head  of  the  St.  Lawrence;  Fabyan's,  in  the  heart  of  the  White  Mountains; 
and  Portland,  on  the  sea-shore.  An  attractive  little  village  has  grown  up  here,  with  several 
good  hotels  and  a  sanitarium  of  merit,  and  a  horse  railroad  has  been  constructed  to  the 
Whirlpool  Rapids,  a  mile  or  two  down  the  river.  Leaving  the  station,  the  train  backs 
down  on  a  Y,  and  then  runs  up  the  river  to  Niagara  Falls  Station  (515  miles),  sometimes 
so  close  to  the  edge  that  one  may  look  down  upon  the  madly  turbulent  waters  far  below 
and  get  fine  views  of  the  Cantilever  Bridge,  the  American  and  Horseshoe  Falls,  and  the 
foaming  amphitheatre  into  which  they  pour.  As  on  the  Canadian  side,  the  road  skirts  the 
new  International  Park,  which  the  State  of  New  York,  now  being  seconded  by  the 
Dominion,  has,  with  wise  liberality,  made  free  to  the  world  for  all  time  to  come.  The 
American  portion  of  the  park  embraces  some  three  hundred  acres.  Unsightly  buildings 
have  been  removed,  and  the  shores  are  gradually  retaking  the  wild  natural  beauty  they 
wore  when  Hennepin  first  gazed  upon  them  two  hundred  years  ago.  The  hackmen, 
about  whom  so  much  has  been  written  (not  always  with  strict  veracity),  are  controlled  by 
ordinances  that  prevent  annoyance  or  extortion;  neat  phaetons  run  through  the  Reser- 
vation to  all  points  of  interest,  for  an  insignificant  fare;  Miller's  carriages  and  transfers 
take  the  traveler  anywhere  at 
fixed  and  reasonable  rates;  and 
the  old  charges  that  met  one 
at  every  turn,  have  nearly  all 
been  abolished.  The  Falls, 
Rapids  and  Islands  have  been 
vividly  pictured  by  the  pens  of 
Dickens,  Trollope,  Bayard  Tay- 
lor and  Col.  Donan,  Tissan- 
dier.  Bigot  and  Bodenstedt ; 
and  Howells  and  Warner  have 
graphically  described  the  vil- 
lage as  well  in  TAeir  Wedding  Journey  and  Their  Pilgrimage,  with  which  every  tourist 
should  be  familiar.  We  will  not  linger  here,  therefore.  But,  passing  on,  glimpses  are  had 
of  the  white-capped  rapids  and  green  islands,  with  the  clouds  of  spray  rising  in  the  back- 
ground; of  the  river  above  widening  out  until  the  distant  shores  lose  their  sharpness  of 
outline  and  distinctness  of  color,  with  its  broiad,  placid  bosom  giving  no  token  of  the 
irresistible  power  of  its  current,  nor  of  the  fate  to  which  it  so  smoothly  glides ;  of  fine 
farms,  prolific  orchards,  neat  villages  and  prosperous-looking  homesteads. 

At  Tonawanda  (526  miles),  New  York's  great  lumber  depot,  the  Erie  Canal  is  crossed  ; 
and  soon  we  pass  at  Black  Rock  the  International  Truss  Bridge  of  the  Fort  Erie  Division 
of  the  Michigan  Central,  completed  in  1873  at  a  cost  of  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars, 
the  commodious  harbor  at  the  head  of  the  river,  and  enter  the  city  of  Buffalo,  halting  in 
the  splendid  Union  Passenger  Station  on  Exchange  Street,  536  miles  from  our  starting  point. 
Our  entrance  into  Buffalo  beneath  the  picturesque  water-works  and  beside  the  canal  and 
lake,  is  a  fit  pendant  to  our  departure  from  Chicago.    We  see  nothing  of  the  squalor  of  the 


>"^ 


•M»<inm  i>«'<inr«*LIMi- 

:niACAiM  RivU'  .MLcrnu* 
•inTutMATionAL  nmmytt. 

(From  Snmner'g  "Inkllns  of  Bnflalo.'O 


» 


■ 


84 


FROM  CITY  TO  SURF. 


city,  if  squalor  exists,  but  only  cheerful  villus,  broad  plaisances,  and  blooming  parterres  on 
the  terraced  heights  on  one  side  ;  on  the  other  the  broad  harbor  out  of  which  Niagara  flows, 
picturesque  with  its  shipping,  and  the  delicate  blue  of  the  lake  stretching  into  an  horizon 
of  turquoise  and  amethyst. 

Buffalo  is  the  third  city  in  size  in  the  State,  and  contains  about  250,000  popu- 
lation. A  year  younger  than  the  century,  for  it  was  first  settled  in  1801,  its  growth 
has  been  very  rapid  since  the  completion  of  the  Erie  Canal,  of  which  it  is  the  ter- 
minus. It  is  well  and  handsomely  built,  and  is  famed  for  its  extensive  lake  commerce,  for 
its  gigantic  elevators,  through  which  run  unfailing  rivers  of  grain,  for  its  manufactures 
of  metals,  for  its  malt  and  beer,  for  its  gigantic  coal  and  ice  traffic,  and  as  the  converging 
point  of  ten  different  lines 
of  railway.  The  streets  are 
mostly  broad  and  straight, 
and  those  in  the  more  ele> 
vated  portions  of  the  city 
are  bordered  with  a  profu- 
sion of  shade  trees,  which 
adorn  also  the  five  public 
squares  of  the  city  and  the 
Terrace,  a  broad,  open  space 
in  its  busiest  section.  A 
portion  of  the  river  front  is 
a  bold  bluff  of  sixty  feet,  on 
which  are  the  ruins  of  old 
Fort  Porter  and  the  barracks, 
where  several  companies  of 
the  United  States  Army  are 
quartered.  This  bluff  and 
the  greater  elevations  far- 
ther back,  afford  fine  views  of  the  city,  lake  and  river,  the  Canada  shore  and  hilly  country  to 
the  southeast. 

The  most  important  avenues  have  numerous  fine  residences,  and  many  of  its  public 
buildings,  banks  and  churches  are  costly  and  imposing  edifices.  The  Court  House  and 
City  Hall  is  a  splendid  and  spacious  granite  structure,  fronting  on  Franklin  Sti-eet ;  the 
State  Arsenal,  on  Broadway,  is  a  handsome  turreted  building  of  limestone ;  St.  Paul's 
Cathedral  is  built  of  red  sandstone,  in  the  early  English  style,  and  contains  a  fine  chime  of 
bells;  St.  Joseph's  Cathedral,  on  Franklin  Street,  is  a  fine  Gothic  edifice  of  bluestone 
trimmed  with  white  stone,  with  a  chime  of  forty-two  bells  The  State  Insane  Asylum, 
with  a  frontage  of  2,700  .^et,  located  in  ext.'v  ...i  ^  grounds  adjoining  the  Buffalo  Park, 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  favorably  noted  institutior.b  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  The 
Grosvenor  Library,  and  those  of  the  Young  Men's  Association  and  Buffalo  Historical 
Society,  as  well  as  the  collections  of  the  Society  of  Natural  Sciences,  are  large  and  valuable. 


J 


rtM 


THE   NIAGARA  FALLS    ROUTE." 


as 


)arterres  on 
agara  flows, 
I  an  horizon 

3,ooo  popu- 
,  its  growth 
is  the  ter- 
mraerce,  for 
nanufactures 
J  converging 

>(  I.oeaUoD  of 
STATIONS  OF 
8  OtNTERme  IN  THt  | 

BUFFALO. 


lilly  country  to 

J  of  its  public 
irt  House  and 
in  Sti-eet;  the 
le;   St.  Paul's 
a  fine  chime  of 
of  bluestone 
nsane  Asylum, 
B  Buffalo  Park, 
le  world.    The 
falo  Historical 
e  and  valuable. 


Buffalo  also  enjoys  a  superb  system  of  public  parks,  designed  and 
laid  out  by  Olmsted,  embracing  about  530  acres,  divided  among  three 
parks  in  the  eastern,  northern  and  southern  sections  of  the  city,  with 
broad  bouLvards  connecting  them,  and  forming  a  continuous  drive  of 
ten  miles.  Forest  Lawn  Cemetery,  bounded  on  two  sides  by  the  park, 
is  tastefully  laid  out,  and  contains  some  fine  monuments. 

'•  It  has  a  social  reputation  of  its  own,  which  may  be  described  by 
the  term  'gay,'  used  in  its  best  sense,"  says  Miss  Woolson,  in  Pictur- 
esque America :  •'  it  has  its  driving  park  and  annual  races;  it  has  its 
club-houses,  its  brilliant  amateur  theatricals,  and  well-supported  public 

theatres,  while  its  private  balls 
and  parties  are  renowned  for 
their  gayety  throughout  the 
whole  Lake  country,  with  its 
chain  of  cities. 

"  The  most  noticeable  fea- 
ture of  Buffalo  is  its  mode  of 
handling  grain  in  bulk,  by 
means  of  its  numerous  eleva- 
tors. These  wooden  monsters 
with  long  trunks  and  high 
heads,  stand  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  waiting  for  their  prey. 
,„      .        .,..,.,..»«.  »v  In    from    the    lake    come  the 

(Frum  Sumner  a  "  Inkllntt  of  Buffalo.") 

vessels  and  propellers,  laden  with  grain,  from  Milwaukee  and  Chicago,  and  the  tugs  carry 
them  up  within  reach,  and  leave  them  to  their  fate;  then  down,  out  of  the  long  neck,  comes 
the  trunk,  and,  plunging  itself 
deep  into  the  hold  of  the  craft, 
it  begins  to  suck  up  the  grain, 
nor  pauses  until  the  last  atom 
is  gone.  Within  this  trunk  are 
two  divisions ;  in  one,  the 
troughs  full  of  grain  pass  up 
on  a  pliable  band ;  in  the  other, 
they  pass  down  empty.  In  the 
hold  of  the  vessel  or  propeller 
are  men  who  shovel  the  grain 
toward  these  troughs,  so  they  may  always  go  up 
full;  and  in  the  granary  of  the  elevator  above  are 
men  who  regulate  the  flow  of  the  grain  into  the  shute, 
and  cause  it  to  measure  itself,  by  means  of  a  self- 
registering  apparatus,  the  whole  adjusted  and  gov- 


(Prom  Sumner's  ' 


■■■■■'j.v.v/r.oiii 

Inkllni;  ot  Buffalo.") 


BSSi-aiaS 


M 


FROM    CITY   TO   SURF. 


erned  by  the  weight  of  a  finger.  It  may  be  that  this  grain  is  to  go  eastward  by  the  Erie 
Canal;  in  that  case,  the  canal-boat  is  waiting  on  the  other  side,  a  man  opens  another  door, 
the  grain  runs  down  another  trunk  into  its  hold,  and,  behold,  it  is  ready  for  its  journey  to 
New  York  City.  The  transfer  of  forty  bushels  takes  less  than  half  a  minute,  and  costs  less 
than  half  a  cent.  Americans  pass  these  elevators  with  but  slight  attention;  every  one  is 
supposed  to  understand  their  workings,  and  no  one  sees  anything  remarkable  in  them  unless 
it  be  their  ugliness.  But  visitors  from  foreign  cbuntries  pause  before  then  with  curiosity; 
our  uncouth  planked  elephants 

on  the  river  banks  excite  their       \\  J^fel'^^RT^I-"  4lfk^  -i-e- 

interest,  and,  for  written  de- 
scriptions of  them,  we  must  go 
to  European  books  of  travel. 

"  Buffalo  is  attractive  by 
reason  of  its  situation  at  the 
eastern  end  of  Lake  Erie.  It 
takes  its  place  boldly  at  the 
foot  of  the  lake,  and  catches 
every  breeze  and  every  gale  in 
their  full  strength.  Through 
the  vista  of  its  broad  streets, 
glimpses  of  blue  water  meet  the 
eye,  and  the  waves  seem  full  of 
life,  as  they  dance  across  the 
bay  toward  the  gateway  of  the 
Niagara  River,  through  whose 
portal  they  will  soon  glide  past 
Grand  Island,  faster  and 
faster,  among  the  rapids  and 
over  the  foam -wreathed,  misty 
precipice  into  the  deep,  green 
basin  below." 

Within  the  huge  carapace 
of  the  depot,  which  seems 
alive  with  puffing  of  engines,  transfers  of  baggage,  and  bustle  of  passengers  ever  coming 
and  going,  the  Michigan  Central  connects  with  the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River, 
the  only  four-track  railroad  in  the  world,  the  West  Shore,  and  the  Buffalo,  Rochester 
&  Pittsburgh.  Two  of  the  Central's  tracks  are  set  apart  for  the  immense  freight  traffic 
of  the  line,  and  two  for  the  passenger  trains  that  fly  over  the'steel  rails  with  lightning  speed, 
yet  with  perfect  safety,  and  the  traveler  soon  feels  that  his  chance  of  realizing  on  his  acci- 
dent insurance  policy  is  too  slight  to  be  thought  of.  The  Sl'eeping  Cars  leaving  Chicago 
for  Syracuse,  Boston  and  New  York,  run  through  without  change,  and  the  traveler  is 
undisturbed  by  their  transfer  at  Buffalo  from  one  train  to  the  other. 


"THK    NIAGARA    FAI,LS    ROUTK." 


87 


jy  the  Erie 
other  door, 
I  journey  to 
id  costs  less 
every  one  is 
them  unless 
th  curiosity; 


of-^' 


etucoii  ■i.T 


s  ever  coining 
ludson  River, 
o,  Rochester 
freight  traffic 
htning  speed, 
ig  on  his  acci- 
iving  Chicago 
he  traveler  is 


All  the  way  across  the  Empire  State  we  look  from  the  windows  upon  farmstead  and  croft, 
blooming  gardens,  fruitful  orchards  and  waving  grain  fields  shimmered  by  gentle  breezes, 
lazily  moving  canal-boats,  rippling  brooks,  cool  pastures  and  verdant  hillsides  dotted 
picturesquely  with  sheep  and  cattle, — a  thousand  scenes  of  cjuiet  pastoral  beauty  such 
as  Birket  Foster  loved  to  d">w.  All  along  and  near  the  line  are  resorts  that  tempt 
the  traveler  to  halt :  Lakes  ^  .autauqua,  Keuka,  Canandaigua,  Seneca,  Cayuga,  Owasco 
and  Oneida ;  Genesee,  Ithaca,  Taghkanic  and  Trenton  Fails  ;  Clifton,  Avon,  Richfield, 
Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs ; 
Watkins  Glen,  Canandaigua,  Ith- 
aca and  numerous  other  delight- 
ful places  are  not  far  off.  Pop- 
ulous and  prosperous  cities,  too, 
appear  and  disappear.  Passing 
Batavia  (574  miles),  a  pretty 
village  of  4,000  people,  with 
broad  and  beautifully  shaded 
streets,  the  site  of  the  State 
Institution  for  the  Blind,  we 
come  to  Rochester  (606  miles), 
a  busy  city  of  90,000  inhabitants, 
noted  for  its  beautiful  falls  of 
the  Genesee  (about  a  hundred 
yards  from  the  railroad  bridge), 
with  which  are  associated  Web- 
ster's postprandial  speech  and 
Sam  Patch's  fatal  leap;  its  flour, 
its  boots  and  shoes,  its  engines 
and  boilers,  its  agricultural  im- 
plements, and  its  nurseries  and 
seeds,  its  tobacco  and  patent 
medicines,  its  splendid  university 
and  lovely  cemetery,  while  Their 
Wedding  Journey  has  thrown 
about  it  a  tender,  roseate  glow  of 
delicious  sentiment  that  induces  the  sojourner  to  seek  the  veritable  hotel  that  Basil  and 
Isabel  found  so  charming.  The  "  old  road  "  diverges  from  the  main  line  at  Rochester,  and 
runs  via  Canandaigua,  Clifton  Springs,  Geneva  Ithaca  and  Auburn  to  Syracuse,  104  miles. 

Lyons  (639  miles),  the  centre  of  the  dried-fruit  industry,  is  passed  and  the  train  halts 
at  Syracuse  (686  miles),  whose  extensive  salt  springs  and  works  will  forever  preserve  it  in 
history,  and  whose  pleasant  location  at  the  end  of  Onondaga  Lake,  important  manufactures 
and  6ne  public  buildings  make  this  city  of  70,000  people  a  memorable  cne. 
Chittenango  (700  miles)  is  noted  for  its  iron  and  .sulphur  springs.      Oneida  (712  miles) 


Tnirton  Folh  from  tha  PInnacI*. 


ft 


FROM    CITY    TO    SURF. 


\f 


is  six  miles  from  the  lake  uf  the  same  name;  at  Veroim  (716  miles)  is  another  mineral 
spring,  and  at  Rome  (725  miles)  are  railroad  sho|)s,  rolling  mills  and  an  important  lumber 
market. 

Utica  (739  miles)  is  a  large  and  handsome  city  of  35,000  inhabitants,  on  the  side  of 
old  Fort  Schuyler,  possesses  extensive  and  varied  manufactures,  and  is  an  important  railroad 
and  canal  centre.  Northward  to  the  St.  Lawrence  runs  the  Rome,  Watertowii  &  Ogdens- 
burg  Railroad,  through  a  remarkably  picturesque  country,  with 
numerous  gateways  to  the  lake  region  of  the  Adirondacks  along 
the  line.  Eighteen  miles  from  Utica  are  Trenton  ^, 
Falls,  one  of  the  most  entrancingiy 
beautiful  and  graceful  series  of  cas- 
cades upon  earth.  At  Utica  we  are 
in  the  rich  and  picturesque  Mohawk 
Valley,  and  we  continue  its  descent 
through  Richfield  Springs,  Little 
Falls  (760  miles),  Palatine  Bridge 
and  Fonda  (whence  a  little  railroad 

runs  up  into  the  Adirondack  region)  Aibmy. 

to  the  old  Dutch  city  of  Schenectady  (817  miles),  onre  the  council  ground  of  the  Mohawks, 
later  a  Dutch  frontier  trading  post,  and  fifty-five  ytars  ago  the  terminus  of  the  Hudson  & 
Mohawk  Railroad,  over  which  ran  the  first  train  on  what  is  now  a  part  of  a  great  trunk 
system.  Union  College  is  located  here,  and  the  city  counts  14,000  inhabitants  now.  At 
this  point  the  Saratoga  and  Champlain  Division  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Co.'s 
Railroad  diverges  to  Ballston,  Saratoga,  Lakes  George  and  Champlain  and  the  Northern 
Wilderness.     Halt  an  hour  later  we   'Mi  into  the  quaint,  historic  city  of 

Albany    (834  miles),  the  capital  of  the  Empire  State,  with  a  population  of  nearly  a 

hundred  thousand.      The  terminus  of  the   Erie  and 
Champlain  canals  at  the  head  of  navigation  of  the  Hud- 
son, and  the  centre  to  which  several  impor- 
tant lines  of  railway  converge,  and  with 
many    great      manufacturing     industries, 
Albany  is    a  live,  active,  prosperous  city, 
and  occupies  a  proud  commercial  position. 
It  has  celebrated  the  two-       )'"iy^!H|^Tr       hundredth  anniversary  of  its  incorporation, 
and  has  a  flavor  of  great  antiquity  to  most  Americans.     Rich  in  its 

traditions  of  Dutch  and  English  sovereignty,  in  its  historic  associations  with  the  Revo- 
lution and  the  birth  and  infancy  of  the  Republic,  in  its  literary  and  scientific  accumulations, 
in  its  magnificent  triumph  of  modem  architecture  and  interior  decoration  that  crowns  its  lofty 
Capitolian  Hill,  and  in  its  lovely  vistas  of  the  lordly  Hudson  that  bathes  its  feet,  it  is  full  of 
interest  to  the  observant  traveler,  and  worthy  of  a  lengthy  halt. 

Here  separate  our  Palace  Cars  that  started  from  Chicago  and  have  journeyed  so  far 
together.     One  Sleeping  or  Drawing- Room  Car,  as  the  case  may  be,  goes  directly  eastward 


'■'tX.WI'WW^^J-' 


"> '  l«WI"A'^.j  : ',! '«.« t'-,',-«l,TT»i.'-:'J'a;.'C.~  ~-" 


iier  mineral 
ant  lumber 

the  side  of 
ant  railroad 
&  Ogdens- 


ic  Mohawics, 
le  Hudson  & 
I  great  trunk 
Its  now.  At 
I  Canal  Co.'s 
he  Northern 

I  of  nearly  a 
le  Erie  and 
of  the  Hud- 
everal  impor- 
[e,  and  with 

industries, 
sperous  city, 
cial  position, 
icorporation. 

Rich  in  its 
:h  the  Revo- 
:cumulations, 
owns  its  lofty 
et,  it  is  full  of 

•neyed  so  far 
!Ctly  eastward 


IHK    N^IAGAMA    FAM.S   ROUTE." 


MMfR^' 


99 


uyh  the  Taghkanir  and  *',erk    iire  Mun    '  lin*,  to 

the  b«ai"  (111  green  h    is  bt   "h(t  the  river,  and  then 

'    courut     '  the  no' -'est  stream  in  the 

Kcautifii     uid  ever-varying  scenes,  not 

Hhalinw      led  with  islands,  picturesque 

JHoad  meadows,  and  lined  by  jetties  and 


over  the  Boston  ^:  Albaii       aili  .ud,  i 
Huston.     We  watch  it  il(        isly  climbi 
also,  crossing  the  magniticcnt  iron  hf  ki 
world  through  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  »(  gni 
one  of  which  is  uninteresting.    At  first  the  i . 
with  great  white  groups  of  ice  houses,  borders i 

breakwaters  to  confine  to  its  channel  the  waters  that  wouki  too  idly  linger  by  the  wayside. 

We  can  see  the  Overslagh  where  the  //(j//  Afoon  anchored  and 
Hendrik  Hudson  took  to  his  pinnace  nearly  three  hnndrtd 
years  ago.  Beyond  to  the  westward  loom  up  tht  .solid 
blue  masses  of  the  Helderbergs,  full  of  caverns  and 
fossils,  of  mystical  tradition  and  of  memories  of  the 
war  of  the  Anti-Renters.  Gradually  the  meadows  nar- 
row and  sometimes  disappear,  and  the  numerous  bold 
headlands  rise  more  abruptly  from  the  water. 

At  Hudson  (863  miles),  the  head  of  .ship  naviga- 
tion, and  once  an  important  whaling  port,  but  now 
a  quiet  city  of  12,000  people,  more  noted  for  its  iron 
manufactures,  the  river  has  swollen  into  greater  pro- 
portions of  depth  and  breadth,  and  we  gaze  upon  the 
strikingly  beautiful  panorama  of  the  Catskill  Mount- 
ains beyond  it.    On  a  lofty  promontory  near  the 
city  is  the  home  of  the  artist  Church,  and 
from  Prospect  Hill,  500   feet   high,   the 
view  of  the  Catskills  is  incomparably  fine. 
Four  miles   below  is  Catskill  Landing, 
the  point  of  departure  for  the  mountains, 
and  the  view  of  them  is  varied  with  every 
curve  in  our  course  and  every  change  in 
the  atmospheric  conditions.     Round  Top 
is  3,800  feet  high,  and  only  eight  or  nine 
miles    from    the    Landing,   whence    the 
little    railway   runs    to    the    Kaaterskill 
House.     All  along  the  country  is  full  of 
•  KMtonUii  Ftib.  old  Dutch  homesteads,  neat,  well  tilled 

modern  farms  and  costly  villas,  most  of  which,  however,  are  concealed  from  view  by  the  high 
bank  under  which  the  railroad  is  constructed  along  the  water's  edge.  More  and  more  grandly 
do  the  hills  arise  from  the  opposite  side.  More  and  more  grandly  does  the  river  flow  on 
between  its  confines  or  expand  into  lake-like  bays,  bearing  on  its  bosom  a  picturesque  fleet 
of  steam  and  sail.  Passing  the  vast  and  stately  buildings  of  the  Hudson  River  Insane 
Asylum,  on  a  commanding  eminence,  the  train  halts  for  refreshments  at  Poughkeepsie  (903 
lOiles).     From  the  station  one  sees  little  of  the  city,  which  is  a  large  and  handsome  one, 


;^^^^£f' 


The  Iron  Duke,  Catskill  Mountains. 


(80) 


"TH^,    NIAGARA    FALLS   KUUTK.' 


81 


lj»j»»«»f;*i, 


'^^■r. 


J^" " 


ii-fS-- 


SunriM  from  Shy  Top,  new  L*k« 
Mohonk. 


built  on  an  elevated  plateau,  and  possessinj^  eight  imiwrtant  educational  institutions,  one  of 
wiiich.  Vassar.  is  probably  the  most  noted  female  college  in  the  world.  Fourteen  miles  from 
New  I'altz  Landing,  across  the  river,  is  the  delightful  summi-r  resort  of  I,ake  Nfoh.mk.  on 
tht  Shawangunk  Mountains,  1,24  ^  feet  above  the  sea. 

Fifteen  miles  below  Foughkeepsie  is  Fishkill  (917   miles),   where  a  steam  ferry  runs 
to    Newburgh,  a 
handsomely  built 
city  of  18,000  in- 
habitants, on  the 
west  shore,  where 
an  old  gray  stone 
mansion.in  which 
Washington    had 
his  headquarters, 
is  still  preserved. 
Just    below    the 
broad  expanse  of 
Newburgh     Bay 
comes  to  an  end, 
and  wc  come  to 
the  famed  High- 
lands of  th£  Hudson,  entered  under  the 
precipices  of  Beacon  Hill  and  Breakneck, 
with  the  massive  granite  crown  of  Storm 
King  (Butter  Hill,  we  called  it  when  we 
were  boys)  towering  opposite  1,529  teet 
above  the  water.     On  the  steep  side  of 
Bull    Hill    we    see    Underclif!,   the   old 
residence  of  George  P.  Morris,   and   just  beyond  pass 
Cold  Spring  (923  miles),  with  its  famous  cannon  foundry, 
immortalized  on  the  canvas   of   Weir.      Opposite,   be- 
tween Storm  King  and  Crow  Nest,  is    the  lovely  high- 
land Vale  of   Tempe.      We    cross   Constitution   Island 
near  the  spot  where  Arnold  and  Andre  met,  and  stop  a  moment  at 
Garrison's  (926  miles),  where  Col.  Comstock,  of  Grant's  staff,  was 
killed.     For  two  or  three  miles,  rounding  the  point  abpve  where  the 
river  makes  a  short  turn  at  right  angles,  we  have  had  a  splendid 
view  of  West  Point,  with  its  great  piles  of  buildings  that  constitute  the  National  Military 
Academy,-,ts  barracks,  academic  hall,  library,  observatory,  etc.;  its  level  parade;  Kosc 
usko  s  monument,  gleaming  white  under  the  trees;  and  Sedgwick's  and  Scott's,  of  which 
only  ghmpses  can  be  caught.     Just  below  the  ferry  landing  from  Garrison's,  but  on  the 
lofty  bluff  just  beyond  the  Academy  grounds,  .s  Cranston's  (formerly  Cozzen's),  a  famous 


I  ,Tf.  "      ' '  111-^""—" 


FROM    CITY   TO    SURF. 


summer  resort.  Near  by  ButtermiI^  Falls 
tumble  over  the  ledges  into  the  river,  and 
way  above,  on  Mount  Independence,  the 
crumbling  walls  of  Fort  Putnam  can  still 
be  distinguished.  Just  below  Garrison's 
we  pass  Beverly's  house,  whence  Arnold 
fled  to  the  Vulture  on  hearing  of  Andre's 
capture.  Every  foot  of  the  way  here  and 
onward  is  historic  ground.  Soon  we  run 
through  a  long  tunnel  under  Anthony's 
Nose,  and,  emerging  into  daylight,  sweep 
around  the  head  of  Peekskill  Bay,  with  the 
imposing  granite  height  of  the  Dunder- 
burg  on  the  opposite  point,  and  lona 
Island  in  the  sharp  bend  guarding  the 
southern  portals  of  the  Highlands. 
Around  the  foot  of  the  Dunderburg  and 
through  the  Highlands  may  be  seen  some 
magnificent  engineering,  where  a  shelf 
has  been  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock  for  the 
construction  of  the  West  Shore  railroad, 
now  leased  by  the   New  York    Central.  wa.hingion  s  He«dquartei».  Nawburgh. 

The  traveler  in  the  Michigan  Central  St.  Louis  and  New  York  sleeper  will  pass  over 
it ;  but  the  finer  view,  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  river,  is  from  the  eastern  shore. 
At  Peekskill,  the  home  and  birthplace  of  Chauncey  M.  Depew,  the  river  broadens  to  an 

inland  lake.  The  mountains  spread  apart,  culminating  to 
the  westward  in  the  solid  masses  of  the  distant  Shawan- 
gunks.  The  banks  are  still  rocky,  but  less  precipitous,, 
and  beauty  succeeds  to  grandeur. 

Verplanck's  Point  closes  in  the  southern  end  of  Peekskill 
Bay,  jutting  far  out  into  the   river  as   if   to  meet   Stony 
Point,  where  Anthony  Wayne  gained  his  well-won   fame. 
Below,  Haverstraw  Bay  broadens  out  to  majestic  pro- 
portions, bearing  on  its  bosom  as  varied  and  picturesque 
fleets  as  any  waters  in  the  world.      It  is  always 
beautiful,  whether  its  peaceful  waters  reflect  the 
snowy  clouds  floating  in  the  azure  sky  above,  or 
are  lashed  into  foam  by  the  black  storms  that 
cluster  about  the  Dunderburg,  or  are  hurtled  from  the  crags 
of  High  Torn  Mountain,  to  the  side  of  which  clings  the 
West  Shore  track,  which  here  reaches  the  river  from  the 
valley  of  the  Hackensack,  back  of  the  Palisades. 


'--■^tt^BBSMS^fiSw^s^illi 


■jM iiitmii  ii<wiBMiwMiMW>i'w»miinii»'i 


MMiP^ 


THE   NIAGARA    FALLS    ROUTE." 


38 


i^^^^Mm^ 


urgh. 

ill  pass  over 
istern  shore, 
oadens  to  an 

minating  to 
ant  Shawan- 

precipitous,. 

of  Peekskill 
meet  Stony 
1-won  fame, 
jiajestic  pro- 
d  picturesque 
It  is  always 
s  reflect  the 
iky  above,  or 
storms  that 
rom  the  crags 
ich  clings  the 
iver  from  the 


Then  come  Sing  Sing  (944  miles),  with  its  vast  State  Prison;  Tarrytown  (950  miles), 
with  its  memories  of  Sunnyside  and  Sleepy  Hollow,  of  Washington  and  Andre,  of  Diedrich 
Knickerbocker  and  Rip  Van  Winkle;  the  broad  Tappan  Zee;  the  popi:lous  suburban 
city  of  Yonkers.  (961  miles);  and  then,  after  twenty  miles  of  the  grand  unbroken  preci- 


The  Highlands  of  th«  Hudson. 

pice  of  the  Palisades,  turn  from  the  lordly  Hudson  to  run  down  the  bank  of  Spuyten 
Duyvel  Creek,  stopping  a  moment  at  the  magnificent  new  up-town  station  at  138th 
street.  We  have  enjoyed  such  a  glorious  panorama  as  the  world  nowhere  else  a.fords, 
and  which  remains  forever  ineffaced  in  the  memory.  And  we  can  not  but  believe 
forever  afterward  with  the  great  traveler,'  Bayard  Taylor,  that  "there  is  one  river 
which,  from  its  source  to  the  ocean,  unrolls  a  long  chain  of  landscapes  wherein  there 
is  no  tame  feature,  but  each  successive  view  presents  new  combinations  of  beauty  and 

majesty,  which  other  rivers 
may  surpass  in  sections,  but 
none  rival  as  a  whole, —  and  its 
name  is  The  Hudson." 

Along  Spuyten  Duyvel  Creek 
to  Harlem,  fifteen  miles  yet 
from  the  Battery,  we  see  the 
building  of  the  city;  splendid 
villas  crowning  the  heights,  and 
t38fh  Street  stition.  here    and    there    giving    way 

to  the  solid  blocks  and  paved  streets  of  the  metropolis:  the  elevated  railroads  show  us  the 
presence  of  urban  traffic.  At  last,  after  several  miles  of  brick-walled  sunken  way,  we 
rush  into  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  the  only  railroad  depot  in  the  city  of  New  York  (976 


'THE    NIAGARA   FALLS   ROUTE." 


35 


miles),  and  one  in  every  way  worthy  of  the 
great  financial  and  commercial  metropolis  of 
the  Nation.  We  find  ourselves  right  in  the 
heart  of  the  great  American  metropolis,  having 
avoided  all  tedious  ferry  transfers  of  person 
and  baggage.  The  best  hotels  in  the  city  are 
not  far  off,  and  some  are  very  close  at  hand. 
At  the  door  is  a  station  of  the  elevated  rail- 
way, whose  swift  trains  will  quickly  whisk  us 
about  the  city.  Street  cars,  omnibuses,  hacks 
and  cabs  are  ct  hand.  Baggage  does  not  hinder 
us;  for,  when  we  purchased  our  tickets  at  the 
Michigan  Central's  office  in  Chicago,  our  bag- 
gage was  checked  through  from  our  residence 
to  our  destined  hotel  in  New  York.  This 
is  a  feature  of  railroad  management  ''^ 
that  saves  much  annoyance  and  trouble,  ''^" 
and  is  in  vogue  in  all  the  principal  .,-- 
cities  of  "  The  Niagara  Falls  Route."  v 
Checking  his  baggage  at  home,  he  may  dismiss  the  subject  from  his  mind,  and,  reaching 
his  destination  in  Boston  or  New  York,  in  Brooklyn,  Jersey  City  or  Hoboken,  he  will  find 
his  trunks  there  about  as  soon  as  himself. 

Our  route  ends  at  the  Grand  Central  Depot;  but  of  course  the  traveler  will  go  farther. 
He  will  cross  and  inspect  the  wonderful  bridge  that  spans  the  East  River  to  Brooklyn; 
he  will  wander  in  the  winding  and  shady  paths  of  Central  and  Prospect  Parks  and  Green- 
wood Cemetery,  the  beauty  of  which  has  little  that  is  funereal  in  its  aspect;  he  will  go  down 
the  magnificent  harbor  and  outer  bay,  past  Bedloe's  Island,  where  towers  Bartholdi's 
colossal  statue,  munificent  gift  from  the  French  people, — past  Governor's  Island,  with  its 
antiquated  fortifications, — past  Staaten  Island,  with  its  wooded  and  villa-covered  slopes, — 
past  the  grim  batteries  of  Forts  Lafayette  and  Wadsworth,  until  Sandy  Hook  is  rounded, 
with  Coney  Island  on  the  left  and  Long  Branch  off  to  the  right,  and  he  feels  the  mighty 
pulsations  of  old  ocean's  breast. 


•ff 


(86) 


-H'^,,.mk.:r9'l'i/imitl*KVi-iW---. 


•€ 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


BY 


■a 


Anthony  Tkollopr. 


■F  all  the  sights  on  this  earth  of  ours  which  tourists  travel  to  see.-at  least 

of  all  those  which  I  have  seen,-I  am  inclined  to  give  the  palm  to  the 

.Falls  of  Niagara.     In  the  catalogue  of  such  sights,  I  intend  to  include  all 

bmldrngs,  pictures,  statues,  and  wonders  of  art  made  by  men's  hands,  and 

also  all  beauties  of  nature  prepared   by  the  Creator  for  the  delight  of  His 

creatures.     This  is  a  long  word  ;  but,  as  far  as  my  taste  and  judgment  go.  it  is 

I  wo„M      !r    !     .  ^  ''"°''  ""  °'''"'  °"'  ''^'"^  '°  ^'""^'^"''  ^°  ^•°"°"«'  ^"d  so  powerful. 
I  would  not  by  th.s  be  understood  as  saying  that  a  traveler  wishing  to  do  the  best  with  his 

all  that  modern  art  can  teach.    At  Rome,  he  will  be  brought  to  understand  the  cold  hearts 

h  mself  w.  h  a  flood  o  grandeur  and  loveliness,  and  fill  himself,  if  he  be  capab.  of  such 

filhng,  w.th  a  flood  of  romance.     The  tropics  will  unfold  to  him  all  that  vegetation  in  its 

greatest  r.chness  can  produce.     In  Paris,  he  will  find  the  supreme  of  polish,  the  «../«, 

«//r.  of  varn.sh  according  to  the  world's  capability  of  varnishing  ;  and,  in  London,  he  will 

find  the  supreme  of  power,  the  n^  plus  ulira  of  work  according  to  the  world's  capability 

of  working.    Any  one  of  such  journeys  may  be  more  valuable  to  a  man,_nay,  any  one  such 

journey  must  be  more  valuable  to  a  man,  than  a  visit  to  Niagara.     At  Niagar^  there  is 

hat  fall  of  waters  alone.     But  that  fall  is  more  graceful  than  Giotto's  tower,  more  noble 

than  the  Apollo.     The  peaks  of  the  Alps  are  not  so  astounding  in  their  solitude     The 

valleys  of  the  Blue  Mountains  in  Jamaica  are  less  green.     The  finished  glaze  of  life  in 

(37) 


88 


FROM   CliY   TO    SURF. 


Paris  is  less  invariable  ;  and  the  full  tide  of  trade  round  the  Bank  of  England  is  not  so 
inexorably  powerful, 

I  came  across  an  artist  at  Niagara  who  was  attempting  to  draw  the  spray  of  the  waters. 
"You  have  a  difficult  subject,"  said  I.  "  All  subjects  are  difficult,"  he  replied,  "to  a  man 
who  desires  to  do  well."  "But  yours,  I  fear,  is  impossible,"  I  said.  "You  have  no  right 
to  say  so  till  I  have  finished  my  picture,"  he  replied.  I  acknowledged  the  justice  of  his 
rebuke,  regretted  that  I  could  not  remain  till  the  completion  of  his  work  should  enable  me 
to  revoke  my  words,  and  passed  on.  Then  I  began  to  reflect  whether  I  did  not  intend  to 
try  a  task  as  difficult  in  describing  the  Falls,  and  whether  I  felt  any  of  that  proud  self- 
confidence  which  kept  him  haopy  at  any  rate  while  his  task  was  in  hand.  I  will  not  say 
that  it  is  as  difficult  to  describe  aright  that  rush 
of  waters,  as  it  is  to  paint  it  well.  But  I  doubt 
whether  it  is  not  quite  as  difficult  to  write  a 
description  that  shall  interest  the  reader,  as  it  is 
to  paint  a  picture  of  them  that  shall  be  pleasant 
to  the  beholder.  My  friend  the  artist  was  at  any 
rate  not  afraid  to  make  the  attempt,  and  I  also 
will  try  my  hand. 

That  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  have  come  down 
in  their  courses  from  the  broad  basins  of  Lake 
Michigan,  Lake  Superior,  and  Lake  Huron  ;  that 
these  waters  fall  into  Lake  Ontario  by  the  short 
and  rapid  river  of  Niagara,  and  that  the  Falls  of 
Niagara  are  made  by  a  sudden  break  in  the  level 
of  this  rapid  river,  is  probably  known  to  all  who 
will  read  this  book.     All  the  waters  of  these  huge 
Northern  inland  seas  run   over  that  breach  in  the 
rocky  bottom  of  the  stream  ;  and  thence  it  comes  that 
the  flow  is  unceasing  in  its  grandeur,  and  that  no  eye  can  . 
perceive  a  difference  in  the  weight,  or  sound,  or  violence  of 
the  fall,  whether  it  be  visited  in  the  drought  of  autumn,  amidst  th*  Faiit 

the  storms  of  winter,  or  after  the  melting  of  the  upper  worlds  "^    ""''*°* 

of  ice  in  the  days  of  the  early  summer.  How  many  cataracts  does  the  habitual  tourist 
visit  at  which  the  waters  fail  him  ?  But  at  Niagara  the  waters  never  fail.  There  it 
thunders  over  its  ledge  in  a  volume  that  never  ceases,  and  is  never  diminished, — as  it 
has  done  from  time  previous  to  the  life  of  man,  and  as  it  will  do  till  tens  of  thousands 
of  years  shall  see  the  rocky  bed  of  the  river  worn  away,  back  to  the  upper  lake. 

This  stream  divides  Canada  from  the  States,  the  western  or  farthermost  bank  belonging 
to  the  British  rrown,  and  the  eastern  or  nearer  bank  being  in  the  State  of  New  York.  In 
visiting  Niagara,  l  always  becomes  a  question  on  which  side  the  visitor  shall  take  up  his 
quarters.  '  On  the  Canada  side,  there  is  no  town,  but  there  is  a  large  hotel,  beautifully 
placed  immediately  opposite  to  the  Falls,  and  this  is  generally  thought  to  be  the  best 


,H,i.i,  i,l,'.i;^iA'.''.'?ik-:..i '",  !!?FJ 


.'..;.....,jsi».  ym 


nia(;ara  falls. 


89 


1  is  not  so 

he  waters, 
'to  a  man 
s  no  right 
tice  of  his 
enable  me 
t  intend  to 
proud  seU- 
rill  not  say 


'#i 


I 


^^rM 


)itual  tourist 
There  it 
ished, — as  it 
f  thousands 

:e. 

nk  belonging 

w  York.  In 
take  up  his 

,  beautifully 
be  the  best 


[locality  for  tourists.  In  the  State  of  New  York  is  the  town  called  Niagara  Fulls,  and 
here  there  are  two  large  hotels,  which,  as  to  their  immediate  site,  are  not  so  well  placed  as 
that  in  Canada.  I  fir'"  visited  Niagara  some  three  years  since.  I  stayed  then  at  the 
Clifton  House,  on  the  Canada  side,  and  have  since  sworn  by  that  position.  But  the  Clifton 
House  was  closed  for  the  season  when  I  was  last  there,  and  on  that  account  we  went  to 
the  Cataract  House,  in  the  town  on  the  other  side.  I  now  think  I  should  set  up  my  staff 
on  the  American  side  if  I  went  again.  My  advice  on  the  subject  to  any  party  starting  for 
Niagara  would  depend  upon  their  habits  or  their  nationality.  I  would  send  Americans  to 
the  Canadian  side,  because  they  dislike  walking  ;  but  English  people  I  would  locate  on  the 

American  side,  seeing  that  they  are  gener- 
ally accustomed  to  the  frequent  use  of 
their  own  legs.  The  two  sides  are  not 
very  easily  approached,  one  from  the  other. 
Immediately  below  the  Falls,  there  is  a 
ferry,  which  may  be  traversed  at  the  ex- 
pense of  a  shilling ;  but  the  labor  of  get- 
ting up  and  down  from  the  ferry  is  con- 
siderable; but  it  is  two  miles  down  the 
river,  making  a  walk  or  drive  of  four  miles 
necessary,  and  the  toll  for  passing  is  four 
shillings,  or  a  dollar,  in  a  carriage,  and  one 
shilling  on  foot.  As  the  greater  variety  of 
prospect  can  be  had  on  the  American  side, 
as  the  island  between  the  two  Falls  is 
approachable  from  the  American 
side,  and  not  from  the  Canadian,  and 
as  it  is  in  this  island  that  visitors  will 
best  love  to  linger  and  learn  to 
measure  in  their  minds  the  vast 
triumph  of  waters  before  them,  I 
recommend  such  of  my  readers  as  can 
trust  a  little — it  need  be  but  a  little — to 
their  own  legs,  to  select  their  hotel  at  Niagara  Falls  town.  It  has  been  said  that  it  matters 
much  from  what  point  the  Falls  are  first  seen;  but  to  this  I  demur.  It  matters,  I  think, 
very  little,  or  not  at  all.  Let  the  visitor  first  see  it  all,  and  learn  the  whereabouts  of  every 
point,  so  as  to  understand  his  own  position  and  that  of  the  waters  ;  and  then,  having  done 
that  in  the  way  of  business,  let  him  proceed  to  enjoyment.  I  doubt  whether  it  be  not  the 
best  to  do  this  with  all  sight-seeing.  I  am  quite  sure  that  it  is  the  way  in  which  acquaint- 
ance may  be  best  and  most  pleasantly  made  with  a  new  picture. 

The  Falls  are,  as  I  have  said,  made  by  a  sudden  breach  in  the  level  of  the  river.  All 
cataracts  are,  I  presume,  made  by  such  breaches;  but  generally  the  waters  do  not  fall  pre- 
cipitously as  they  do  at  Niagara,  and  never  elsewhere,  as  far  as  the  world  yet  knows,  has  a 


Ktrry  Lindlng, 

Canadian  Side 


*»vr-^- 


40 


FROM    CITY    TO    SURF. 


breach  so  sudden  been  made  in  a  river  carrying  in  its  channel  such  or  any  approach  to 
such  a  body  of  water.  Up  above  the  Falls,  for  more  than  a  mile,  the  wa'.ers  ieaj)  and  burst 
over  rapids,  as  though  conscious  of  the  destiny  that  awaits  them.  Here  the  river  is  very 
broad,  and  comparatively  shallow;  but  from  shore  to  shore  it  frets  itself  into  little  torrents, 
and  begins  to  assume  the  najesty  of  its  power.  Looking  at  it  even  here,  in  the  expanse 
which  forms  itself  over  the  greater  fall,  one  feels  sure  that  no  stnmgest  swimmer  could 
have  a  chance  of  saving  himself,  if  fate  had  cast  him  in  even  among  those  petty  whirlpools. 
The  waters,  though  so  broken  in  their  descent,  are  deliciously  green.  This  color  as  seen 
early  in  the  morning,  or  just  as  the  sun  has  set,  is  so  bright  as  to  give  to  the  place  [one]  of 
its  chiefest  charms. 

This  will  be  best  seen  from  the  further  end  of  the  island, — Goat  IsLiiu,  as  it  is  called, 
which,  as  the  reader  will  understand,  divides  the  river  immediately  above  the  Falls.  Indeed, 
the  island  is  a  part  of  that  precipitously  broken  ledge  over  which  the  river  tumbles;  and 
no  doubt  in  process  of  time  will  be  worn  away 
and  covered  with  water.  The  time,  however,  will 
be  very  long.  In  the  meanwhile  it  is  perhaps  a 
mile  round,  and  is  covered  thickly  with  timber. 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  island  the  waters  are 
divided,  and,  coming  down  in  two  courses,  each 
over  its  own  rapids,  form  two  separate  falls.  The 
bridge  by  which  the  island  is  entered  is  a  hundred 
yards  or  more  above  the  smaller  fall.  The  w«  ciS 
here  have  been  turned  by  the  island,  and  make 
their  leap  into  the  body  of  the  river  below  at  a 
right  angle  with  it, — about  two  hundred  yards 
below  the  greater  fall.  Taken  alone,  this  smaller 
cataract  would,  I  imagine,  be  the  heaviest  fall  of 
water  known  ;  but,  taken  in  conjunction  with  the 
other,  it  is  terribly  :;horn  of  its  majesty.  The 
waters  here  are  not  as  green  as  they  are  at  the  larger  cataract,  and,  though  the  ledge  has 
been  hollowed  and  bowed  by  them,  so  as  to  form  a  curve,  that  curve  does  not  deepen  itself 
into  a  vast  abyss,  as  it  does  at  the  horseshoe  up  above.  This  smaller  fall  is  again  divided, 
and  the  visitor,  passing  down  a  flight  of  steps,  and  over  a  frail  wooden  bridge,  finds  him- 
self on  a  smaller  island  in  the  midst  of  it. 

But  we  will  go  at  once  on  to  the  glory,  and  the  thunder,  and  the  majesty,  and  the  wrath 
of  that  upper  hell  of  waters.  We  are  still,  let  the  reader  remember,  on  Goat  Island,  still 
in  the  States,  and  on  what  is  called  the  American  side  of  the  main  body  of  the  river. 
Advancing  beyond  the  path  leading  down  to  the  lesser  fall,  we  come  to  that  point  of  the 
island,  at  which  the  waters  of  the  main  river  begin  to  descend.  From  hence,  across  to 
the  Canadian  side,  the  cataract  continues  itself  in  one  unabated  line.  But  the  line  is  very 
far  from  being  direct  or  straight.  After  stretching  for  some  little  way  from  the  shore,  to  a 
point  in  the  river  which  is  reached  by  a  wooden  bridge,  at  the  end  of  which  stands  a 


Th*  Cataract  abov*  Qoat  Uland. 


NIAGARA    FALLS. 


41 


ipproach  to 
p  and  burst 
iver  is  very 
tie  torrents, 
the  expanse 
mmer  could 
'  whirlpools, 
jlor  as  seen 
ace  [one)  of 

s  it  is  called, 
dls.  Indeed, 
umbles;  and 


It  lilwid. 

the  ledge  has 
deepen  itself 
again  divided, 
ge,  finds  him- 

and  the  wrath 
>at  Island,  still 
of  the  river. 
It  point  of  the 
nee,  across  to 
he  line  is  very 
the  shore,  to  a 
hich  stands  a 


tower  upon  the  rock, — after  stretching  to  this,  the  line  of  the  Icdjjc  bends  inwards  against 
the  flood, — in,  and  in,  and  in,  till  one  is  led  to  think  that  the  depth  of  that  horseshoe  is 
immeasurable.  It  has  been  cut  with  no  stinting  hand.  A  monstrous  cantle  has  been  worn 
back  out  of  the  centre  of  the  rock,  so  that  the  fury  of  the  waters  converges,  and  the 
spectator,  as  he  gazes  into  the  hollow  with  wistful  eyes,  fancies  that  he  can  hardly  trace 
out  the  centre  of  the  abyss. 

Go  down  to  the  end  of  that  wooden  bridge,  seat  yourself  on  the  rail,  and  there  sit  till 
all  the  outer  world  is  lost  to  you.  There  is  no  grander  spot  about  Niagara  than  this. 
The  waters  are  absolutely  around  you.  If  you  have  that  power  of  eye-control  which  is 
so  necessary  to  the  full  enjoyment  of  scenery,  you  will  see  nothing  but  the  water.  You 
will  certainly  hear  nothing  else ;  and  the  sound, 
I  beg  you  to  remember,  is  not  an  ear-cracking, 
agonizing  crash  and  clang  of  noises,  but  is  melo- 
dious, and  soft  withal,  though  loud  as  thunder;  it 
fills  your  ears,  and  as  it  were  envelopes  them,  but 
at  the  same  time  you  can  speak  to  your  neighbor 
without  an  effort.  But  at  this  place,  and  in  these 
moments,  the  less  of  speaking  I  should  say  the 
better.  There  is  no  grander  spot  than  this.  Here, 
seated  on  the  rail  of  the  bridge,  you  will  not  see 
the  whole  depth  of  the  fall.  In  looking  at  the 
grandest  works  of  nature,  and  of  art  too,  I  fancy, 
it  is  never  well  to  see  all.  There  should  be  some- 
thing left  to  the  imagination,  and  much  should  be 
half  concealed  in  mystciy.  The  greatest  charm 
of  a  mountain  range  is  the  wild  feeling  that  there 
must  be  strange,  unknown,  desolate  worlds  in 
those  far-off  valleys  beyond.  And  so  here,  at 
Niagara,  that  converging  rush  of  waters  may  fall 
down,  down  at  once  into  a  hell  of  rivers  for  what  the 
eye  can  see.  It  is  glorious  to  watch  them  in  their 
first  curve  over  the  rocks.  They  come  green  as  a  bank  of  emeralds,  but  with  a  fitful  flying 
color,  as  though  conscious  that  in  one  moment  more  they  would  be  dashed  into  spray  and 
rise  into  air,  pah  as  driven  snow.  The  vapor  rises  high  into  the  air,  and  is  gathered  there, 
visible  always  as  a  permanent  white  cloud  over  the  cataract ;  but  the  bulk  of  the  spray 
which  fills  the  lower  hollow  of  that  horseshoe  is  like  a  tumult  of  snow.  This  you  will  not 
fully  see  from  your  seat  on  the  rail.  The  head  of  it  rises  ever  and  anon  out  of  that  caldron 
below;  but  the  caldron  itself  will  be  invisible.  It  is  ever  so  far  down, — far  as  your  own 
imagmation  can  sink  it.  But  your  eyes  will  rest  full  upon  the  curve  of  the  waters.  The 
shape  you  will  be  looking  at  is  that  of  a  horseshoe,  but  of  a  horseshoe  miraculously 
deep  from  toe  to  heel ;  and  this  depth  becomes  greater  as  you  sit  there.  That  which  at 
first  was  only  great  and  beautiful  becomes  gigantic  and  sublime,  till  the  mind  is  at  a  loss 


Amaricwi  Fall  *nd  Foot  Bridge 
Fiom  Go*t  Idind. 


j^^^MsusBoeam 


iHisattri^i^iKS 


4t 


FROM   CITY  TO   SURF. 


to  find  an  epithet  for  its  own  use.  To  realize  Niagara,  you  must  sit  there  till  you  see  noth- 
ing else  than  that  which  you  have  come  to  see.  You  will  find  yourself  among  the  waters 
as  though  you  belonged  to  them.  The  cool  liquid  green  will  run  through  your  veins,  and 
the  voice  of  the  cataract  will  be  the  expression  of  your  own  heart.  You  will  fall  as  the 
bright  waters  fall,  rushing  down  into  your  new  world  with  no  hesitation  and  with  no 
dismay;  and  you  will  rise  again  as  the  spray  rises,  bright,  beautiful  and  pure.  Then  you 
will  flow  away  in  your  course  to  the  uncompassed,  distant  and  eternal  ocean. 

When  this  state  has  been  reached  and  has  passed  away,  you  may  get  off  your  rail  and 
mount  the  tower.     I  do  not  quite  approve  of  that  tower,  seeing  that  it  has  about  it  a 

gingLi bread  air,  and  reminds  one  of 
those  well  arranged  scenes  of  ro- 
mance in  which  one  is  told  that  t>n 
the  left  you  turn  to  the  lady's  bower, 
price  sixpence;  and  on  the  right 
ascend  to  the  knight's  bed,  price  six- 
pence more,  with  a  view  of  the  her- 
mit's tomb  thrown  in.  But,  never- 
theless, the  tower  is  worth  mount- 
ing, and  no  money  is  charged  for 
the  use  of  it.  It  is  not  very  high, 
and  there  is  a  balcony  at  the  top  on 
which  some  half-dozen  persons  may 
stand  at  ease.  Here  the  mystery  is 
lost,  but  the  whole  fall  is  seen.  It 
is  not  even  at  this  spot  brought  so 
fully  before  your  eye, — made  to 
show  itself  in  so  complete  and  entire 
a  shape,  as  it  will  do  when  you  come 
to  stand  near  to  it  on  the  opposite 
or  Canadian  shore.  But  I  think 
that  it  shows  itself  more  beautifully. 
And  the  form  of  the  cataract  is 
such  that,  here  on  Goat  Island,  on 
the  American  side,  no  spray  will  reach  you,  although  you  are  absolutely  over  the.  waters. 
But  on  Ihe  Canadian  side,  the  road  as  it  approaches  the  fall  is  wet  and  rotten  with  spray, 
.and  you,  as  you  stand  close  upon  the  edge,  will  be  Wet  also.  The  rainbows,  as  they  are 
seen  through  the  rising  cloud — for  the  sun's  rays  as  seen  through  these  waters  show  them- 
selves in  a  bow  as  they  do  when  seen  through  rain — are  pretty  enough,  and  are  greatly 
loved.  For  myself,  I  do  not  care  for  this  prettiness  at  Niagara.  It  is  there;  but  I  forget 
it,  and  do  not  mind  how  soon  it  is  forgotten. 

But  we  are  still  on  the  tower;  and  here  I  must  declare  that,  though  I  forgive  the  tower, 
I  can  not  forgive  the  horrid  obelisk  which  has  latterly  been  built  opposite  to  it,  on  the 


Th«  HofiMhM  Fill  from  Goat  IiIkm). 
(Photograph  by  Gaoigt  Barker.) 


NI;»f;ARA    I'ALLS. 


43 


ou  see  noth- 

J  the  waters 
IT  veins,  and 
1  fall  aH  the 
ind  with  no 
Then  you 

four  rail  and 
s  about  it  a 
ninds  one  of 
;enes  of  ro- 
told  that  On 
lady's  bower, 
n  the  right 
led,  price  six- 
r  of  the  her- 

But,  never- 
orth  mount- 
charged  for 
)t  very  high, 
it  the  top  on 
persons  may 
le  mystery  is 

is  seen.  It 
t  brought  so 
;, — made  to 
te  and  entire 
en  you  come 
the  opposite 
)ut  I  think 
i  beautifully. 

cataract  is 
It  Island,  on 
•  the.  waters. 
n  with  spray, 
,  as  they  are 
5  show  them- 
d  are  greatly 
but  I  forget 

ve  the  tower, 
to  it,  on  the 


Canadian  side,  up  above  the  fall;   built  apparentlv-fnr  I  h;,i       . 

c....a  o..„.  ...„..„  ,„,.,,, ,,  P^.r'^e:::r,:::°  :;::r  - 

good  Christian  men  and  women. 
At  such  a  place  as  Niagara,  taste- 
less  buildings,  run  up  in  wrong 
places    with    a    view    to    money 
making,    are    perhaps   necessary 
evils.     It  may  be  that  they  are 
not  evils  at  all,— that  they  give 
more- pleasure  than  pain,  seeing 
that  they  tend  to  the  enjoyment 
of  the  multitude.     But  there  are 
edifices  of  this  description  which 
cry  aloud   to  the   gods   by  the 
force  of  their  own  ugliness  and 
malposition.     As  to  such  it  may 
be  said  that  there  should  some- 
where exist  a  power  capable  of 
crushing    them    in    their    birth. 
This    new    obelisk    or    picture 
building  at   Niagara   is   one  of 
such. 

And    now   we  will  cross   the 
water,  and  with  this  object  will 
return  by  the  bridge  out  of  Goat 
Island  on   the  mainland  of  the 
American  side.     But,  as  we  do  so, 
let  me  say  that  one  of  the  great 
charms   of  Niagara   consists   in 
this, — that,  over  and  above  that 
one  great  object  of  wonder  and 
beauty,  there  is   so   much  little 
loveliness;    loveliness,  especially 
of   water,   I    mean.     There    are 
little  rivulets  running  here  and 
there  over  little  falls,  with  pend- 
ent    boughs    above    them,   and 
stones  shining  under  their  shal- 
low depths.    As  the  visitor  stands 
and  looks  through  the  trees,  the 

^     rapids  glitter  before    him,   and 

Th.  Rapid,  .be «,.  Am.He«,  F.II.  then    hide    themselves    behind 


'"'n^  "■> 


-•'''Sf)!^, 


-  ■ rBg-^'q}gfJ!i9tM^'lB^j[tjg))aHigv£^ 


44 


FROM    CirV     1()   SURF. 


islapils.  They  flitter  and  Kpurkic  in  far  diKtanccs  under  the  bright  foliuire  till  the  remem- 
brance is  lost,  and  one  knows  not  which  way  thry  run.  And  then  the  river  below,  with  itH 
whirlpool, — but  wc  shall  come  to  that  by-and-by,  and  to  the  mad  voyage  which  was  made 
down  the  rapids  by  that  mad  ca|)tain  who  ran  the  gauntlet  of  the  waters  at  the  risk  of  his 
own  life,  with  fifty  to  one  against  him,  in  order  that  he  might  save  another  man's  property 
from  the  sheriff. 

The  readiest  way  across  tt)  Canada  is  by  the  ferry  ;  and,  on  the  American  side,  this  is 
very  pleasantly  done.  You  go  into  a  little  house,  |)a\  twenty  cents,  take  a  seat  on  a 
wooden  car  of  wonderful  shape,  and,  on  tlu-  touch  of  a  sprinjj,  find  yourself  traveling  down 
an  inclined  plane  of  terrible  declivity,  and  at  a  very  fast  rate.  Vou  catch  a  glimpse  of  the 
river  below  you,  and  recognize  the  fact,  that,  if  the  rope  by  which  you  are  held  should 
break,  you  would  go  down  at  a  very  fast  rate  indeed,  and  find  your  final  resting  place  in  the 
*u  river.     As   1   have  gone  down  some  dozen  times  and   have 

*"  -  ->  .1^  come  to  no  such  grief,  I  will  not  presume  that  you  will  be 

less  lucky.  Helow  there  is  a  boat  generally 
ready.  If  it  be  not  there,  the  place  is  not 
chosen  amiss  for  a  rest  of  ten  minutes,  for 
the  lesser  fall  is  close  at  hand,  and  the 
larger  one  is  in  full  view.  Looking  at  the 
rapidity  of  the  river,  you  will  think  that  the 
passage  must  be  dangerous  and  difficult. 
But  no  accidents  ever  happen,  and  the  lad 
who  takes  you  over  seems  to  do  it  with 
sufficient  ease.  The  walk  up  the  hill  on 
the  other  side  is  another  thing.  It  is  very 
steep,  and,  for  those  who  have  not  good 
locomotive  power  of  their  own,  will  be 
found  to  be  disagreeable.  In  the  full  sea- 
son, however,  carriages  are  generally  waiting  there.  In  so  short  a  distance,  I  have  always 
been  ashamed  to  trust  to  other  legs  than  my  own ;  but  I  have  observed  that  Americans  are 
always  dragged  up.  I  have  seen  single  young  men  of  from  eighteen  to  twenty-five,  from 
whose  outward  appearance  no  story  of  idle,  luxurious  life  can  be  read,  carried  about  alone 
in  carriages  over  distances  which  would  be  counted  as  nothing  by  any  healthy  English 
lady  of  fifty.  None  but  the  old  and  invalids  should  require  the  assistance  of  carriages  in 
seeing  Niagara;  but  the  trade  in  carriages  is,  to  all  appearance,  the  most  brisk  trade  there. 
Having  mounted  the  hill  on  the  Canada  side,  you  will  walk  on  toward  the  Falls.  As  I 
have  said  before,  you  will  from  this  side  look  directly  into  the  full  circle  of  the  upper 
cataract,  while  you  will  have  before  you  at  your  left  hand  the  whole  expanse  of  the  lesser 
fall.  For  those  who  desire  to  see  all  at  a  glance,  who  wish  to  comprise  the  whole  with 
their  eyes,  and  to  leave  nothing  to  be  guessed,  nothing  to  be  surmised,  this,  no  doubt,  is 
the  best  point  of  view. 

You  will  be  covered  with  spray  as  you  walk  up  to  the  ledge  of  rocks;  but  I  do  not  think 


Th«  Bridge,  6i>tti  Idwidi. 


NIAGARA    FALLS. 


4ft 


Lhc  remem- 
i»w,  with  its 
1  was  made 
!  risk  «)f  his 
Vs  property 

»iile,  this  is 
:t  seat  on  a 
kreling  down 
mpse  of  the 
held  should 

place  in  the 
s  and   have 

you  will  be 
)at  generally 

place  is  not 

minutes,  for 
md,  and  the 
oking  at  the 
hink  that  the 
and  difficult. 
J,  and  the  lad 

0  do  it  with 
p  the  hill  on 
r.  It  is  very 
ive  not  good 
own,  will  be 

1  the  full  sea- 
have  always 

Americans  are 
nty-five,  from 
about  alone 
lalthy  English 
[f  carriages  in 
,k  trade  there. 
Falls.     As  I 
of  the  upper 
of  the  lesser 
le  whole  with 
|,  no  doubt,  is 

do  not  think 


that  the  spray  will  hurt  you.  If  a  man  gets  wet  through  going  to  his  daily  work,  Cnlds, 
catarrh,  cough,  and  all  their  attendant  evils  may  be  expected  ;  but  these  maladies  usually 
spare  the  tourist.  Change  of  air,  plenty  of  air,  excellence  of  air,  and  increased  exercise 
make  these  things  powerless.  I  should,  therefore,  bid  ynu  disregard  the  spray.  If,  how- 
ever, you  are  yourself  of  a  different  opinion,  you  may  hire  a  suit  of  oil-cloth  clothes  for, 
I  believe,  a  quarter  of  a  dollar.  They  are  nasty,  of  course,  and  have  this  further  disarl- 
vantage,  that  you  become  much  more  wet  having  them  on  than  you  would  be  without  them. 

Here,  on  this  side,  you  walk  on  to  the  very  edge  of  the  cataract;  anil,  if  your  tread  be 
steady,  and  your  legs  firm,  you  dip  your  foot  into  the  water  exactly  at  the  spot  where  the 
thin  outside  margin  of  the  current  reaches  the  rocky  edge,  and  jumi)s  to  join  the  mass  of 
the  fall.  The  bed  of  white  foam  beneath  is  certainly  seen  belter  here  than  elsewhere,  and 
the  green  curve  of  the  water  is  as  bright  here  as  when  seen  from  the  wooden  rail  across. 
But,  nevertheless,  I  say  again,  that  that  wooden  rail  is  the  one  point  from  whence  Niagara 
may  be  best  seen  aright.  ' 

Close  to  the  cataract,  exactly  at  the  spot  from  whence  in  former  days  the  Table  Rock 
used  to  project  from  the  land  over  the  boiling  caldron  below,  there  is  now  a  shaft,  down 
which  you  will  descend  to  the  level  of  the  river,  and  pass  between  the  rock  and  the  torrent. 
This  Table  Rock  broke  away  from  the  cliff  and  fell,  as  up  the  whole  course  of  the  river 
the  seceding  rocks  have  split  and  fallen  from  time  to  time  through  countless  years,  and 
will  continue  to  do  until  the  bed  of  the  upper  lake  is  reached.  You  will  descend  this  shaft, 
taking  to  yourself  oi  not  taking  to  yourself  a  suit  of  oil-clothes,  as  you  may  think  best.  I 
have  gone  with  and  without  the  suit,  and  again  recommend  that  they  be  left  behind.  I  am 
inclined  to  think  that  the  ordinary  payment  should  be  made  for  their  use,  as  otherwise  it 
will  appear  to  those  whose  trade  it  is  to  prepare  them  that  you  are  injuring  thera  in  their 
vested  rights. 

Some  three  years  since,  I  visited  Niagara  on  my  way  back  to  England  from  Bermuda, 
and,  in  a  volume  of  travels  which  I  then  published,  I  endeavored  to  explain  the  impression 
made  upon  me  by  this  passage  between  the  rock  and  the  waterfall.  An  author  should  not 
quote  himself ;  but,  as  I  feel  myself  bound,  in  writing  a  chapter  specially  about  Niagara,  to 
give  some  account  oi  this  strange  position,  I  will  venture  to  repeat  my  own  words. 

In  the  spot  to  which  I  allude,  the  visitor  stands  on  abroad,  safe  path,  made  of  suirigles, 
between  the  rock  over  which  the  water  rushes  and  the  rushing  water.  He  will  go  in  so  far 
that  the  spray  rising  back  from  the  bed  of  the  torrent  does  not  incommode  him.  With 
this  exception,  the  further  he  can  go  in  the  better ;  but  circumstances  will  clearly  show 
him  the  spot  to  which  he  should  advance.  Unless  the  water  be  driven  in  by  a  very  strong 
wind,  five  yards  makes  the  difference  between  a  comparatively  dry  coat  and  an  abso- 
lutely wet  one.  And  then  let  him  stand  with  his  back  to  the  entrance,  thus  hiding  the 
last  glimmer  of  the  expiring  day.  So  standing,  he  will  look  up  among  the  falling  waters, 
or  down  into  the  deep,  misty  pit,  from  which  they  reascend  in  almost  as  palpable  a  bulk. 
The  rock  will  be  at  his  right  hand,  high  and  hard,  and  dark  and  straight,  like  the  wall  of 
some  huge  cavern  such  as  children  enter  in  their  dreams.  For  the  first  five  minutes  he 
will  be  looking  but  at  the  waters  of  a  cataract, — at  the  waters,  indeed,  of  such  a  cataract  as 


m 


Approach  to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds. 
(46) 


w^BmmssM^sS: 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


47 


we  know  no  other,  and  at  their  interior  curves,  which  elsewhere  we  can  not  see.  But  by- 
and-by  all  this  will  change.  He  will  no  longer  be  on  a  shingly  path  beneath  a  waterfall ; 
but  that  feeling  of  a  cavern  will  grow  upon  him,  of  a  cavern  deep  below  roaring  seas,  in 
which  the  waves  are  there,  though  they  do  not  enter  in  upon  him;  or,  rather,  not  the  waves, 
but  the  very  bowels,  of  the  ocean.  He  will  feel  as  though  the  floods  surrounded  him,  com- 
ing and  going  with  their  wild  sounds,  and  he  will  hardly  recognize,  that,  though  among 
them,  he  is  not  in  them.  And  they,  as  they  fall  with  a  continual  roar,  not  hurting  the  ear, 
but  musical  withal,  will  seem  to  move  as  the  vast  ocean  waters  may  perhaps  move  in  their 
internal  currents.  He  will  lose  the  sense  of  one  continued  descent,  and  think  they  are 
passing  around  him  in  their  appointed  courses.  The  broken  spray  that  rises  from  the 
depths  below,  rises  so  strongly,  so  palpably,  so  rapidly,  that  the  motion  in  every  direction 

will  seem  equal.  And,  as  he  looks  on, 
strange  colors  will  show  themselves  through 
the  mist ;  the  shades  of  gray  will  become 
green  or  blue,  with  ever  and  anon  a  flash  of 
white  ;  and  then,  when  some  gust  of  wind 
blows  in  with  greater  violence,  the  sea-girt 
cavern  will  become  all  dark  and  black.  Oh, 
my  friend,  let  there  be  no  one  there  to  speak 
to  thee  then  ;  no,  not  even  a  brother.  As 
you  stand  there,  speak  only  to  the  waters. 

Two  miles  below  the  Falls  the  river  is 
crossed  by  a  suspension' bridge  of  marvelous 
construction.  It  affords  two  thoroughfares, 
one  above  the  other.  The  lower  road  is 
for  carriages  and  horses,  and  the  Upper  one 
bears  a  railway  belonging  to  the  Great 
Western  Canada  line.  The  view  from 
hence,  both  up  and  down  the  river,  is  very 
beautiful;  for  the  bridge  is  built  immediately 
over  the  first  of  a  series  of  rapids.  One  mile  below  the  bridge  these  rapids  end  in  a  broad 
basin  called  the  Whirlpool,  and,  issuing  out  of  this,  the  current  turns  to  the  right  through 
a  narrow  channel  overhung  by  cliffs  and  trees,  and  then  makes  its  way  down  to  Lake 
Ontario  with  comparative  tranquillity. 

But  I  beg  you  take  notice  of  those  rapids  from  the  bridge,  and  to  ask  yourself  what 
chance  of  life  would  remain  to  any  ship,  craft,  or  boat  required  by  destiny  to  undergo 
navigation  beneath  the  bridge  and  down  into  that  whirlpool.  Heretofore  all  men  would 
have  said  that  no  chance  of  life  could  remain  to  so  ill-starred  a  bark.  The  navigation, 
however,  has  been  effected.  But  men  used  to  the  river  still  say  that  the  chances  would  be 
fifty  to  one  against  any  vessel  which  should  attempt  to  repeat  the  experiment. 

The  story  of  that  wondrous  voyage  was  as  follows  :  A  small  steamer,  called  the  Maid 
of  the  Mist,  was  built  upon  the  river,  between  the  Falls  and  the  Rapids,  and  was  used  for 


'Tsr, 


Tm'r^!''.^^Mr:mm-mmmm^-m'm*F*is^m 


48 


FROM  CITY  TO  SURF. 


taking  adventurous  tourists  up  amidst  the  spray,  as  near  to  the  cataract  as  was  possible. 
The  Maid  of  the  Mist  plied  in  this  way  for  a  year  or  two,  and  was,  I  believe,  much 
patronized  during  the  season.  But  in  the  early  part  of  last  summer  an  evil  time  had 
come.  Either  the  Maid  got  into  debt,  or  her  owner  had  embarked  in  other  and  less  profit- 
able speculations.  At  any  rate,  he  became  subject  to  the  law,  and  tidings  reached  him  that 
the  sheriff  would  seize  the  Maid.  On  most  occasions  the  sheriff  is  bound  to  keep  such 
intentions  secret,  seeing  that  property  is  movable,  and  that  an  insolvent  debtor  will  not 
always  await  the  officers  of  justice.  But  with  the  poor  Maid  there  was  no  need  of  such 
secrecy.  There  was  but  a  mile  or  so  of  water  on  which  she  could  ply,  and  she  was 
forbidden  by  the  nature  of  her  properties  .to  make  any  way  upon  land.  The  sheriff's 
prey  therefore  was  easy,  and  the  poor  Maid  was  doomed. 

In  any  country  in  the  world  but  America  such  would  have  been  the  case  ;  but  an 
American  would  steam  down  Phlegethon  to  save  his  property  from  the  sheriff ;  he  would 
steam  down  Phlegethon,  or  get  some  one  else  to  do  it  for  him.  Whether  or  no  in  this  case 
the  captain  of  the  boat  was  the  proprietor,  or  whether,  as  I  was  told,  he  was  paid  for  the 
job,  I  do  not  know  ;  but  he  determined  to  run  the  rapids,  and  he  procured  two  others  to 
accompany  him  in  the  risk.  He  got  up  his  steam,  and  took  the  Maid  up  amidst  the  spray, 
according  to  his  custom.  Then,  suddenly  turning  on  his  course,  he  with  one  of  his 
companions  fixed  himself  at  the  wheel,  while  the  other  remained  at  his  engine.  I  wish  I 
could  look  into  the  mind  of  that  man,  and  understand  what  his  thoughts  were  at  that 
moment,— what  were  his  thoughts,  and  what  his  beliefs.  As  to  one  of  the  men,  I  was  told 
that  he  was  carried  down,  not  knowing  what  he  was  about  to  do  ;  but  1  am  inclined  to 
believe  that  all  the  three  were  joined  together  in  the  attempt. 

I  was  told  by  a  man  who  saw  the  boat  pass  under  the  bridge,  that  she  made  i    ig 

leap  down  as  she  came  thither,  that  her  funnel  was  at  once  knocked  flat  on  the  dectt  oy  the 
force  of  the  blow,  that  the  waters  covered  her  from  stem  to  stern,  and  that  then  she  rose 
again,  and  skimmed  into  that  whirlpool  a  mile  below.  When  there  she  rode  with  compara- 
tive ease  upon  the  waters,  and  took  the  sharp  turn  round  into  the  river  below  without  a 
struggle.  The  feat  was  done,  and  the  Maid  was  rescued  from  the  sheriff.  It  is  said  that 
she  was  sold  below  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  earned  from  thence  over  Lake  Ontario, 
and  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Q}xebec.—Nortk  America,  1862. 


^^' 


was  possible, 
lelieve,  much 
vil  time  had 
1  less  profit- 
hed  him  that 
to  keep  such 
)tor  will  not 
leed  of  such 
md  she  was 
The  sheriff's 

ase  ;  but  an 
S  ;  he  would 
3  in  this  case 
I  paid  for  the 
two  others  to 
1st  the  spray, 
h  one  of  his 
le.  I  wish  I 
were  at  that 
n,  I  was  told 
u  inrlined  to 

ide  iy  ig 

e  decK.  oy  the 
then  she  rose 
vith  compara- 
ow  without  a 
:  is  said  that 
;^ake  Ontario, 


NIAGARA. 


Has  aught  like  this  descended  since  the  fountains 
Of  the  Great  Deep,  broke  up,  in  cataracts  hurled, 

And  climbing  lofty  hills,  eternal  mountains. 
Poured  wave  on  wave  above  a  buried  world  ? 

Yon  tides  are  raging,  as  when  storms  have  striven 
And  the  vexed  seas,  awaking  from  their  sleep 

Are  rough  with  foam,  and  Neptune's  flocks  are  driven 
In  myriads  o'er  *he  green  and  azure  deep. 

Ere  yet  they  fall,  mark  (where  that  mighty  current 

Comes  like  an  army  from  its  mountain  home) 
How  fiercely  yon  steeds  amid  the  torrent 

With  their  dark  flanks,  and  manes  and  crests  of  foam, 
Speed  to  their  doom,— yet,  in  the  awful  centre 

Where  the  wild  waves  rush  raadliest  to  the  steep 
Just  ere  that  white,  unfathomed  gulf  they  enter 

Rear  back  in  horror  from  the  headlong  leap,  ' 

Then,  maddening,  plunge.     A  thousand  more  succeeding 
Sweep  onward,  troop  on  troop,  again  to  urge 

The  same  fierce  flight,  as  rapid  and  unheeding,- 
Again  to  pause  in  terror  on  the  verge. 


Oft  to  an  eye  half  closed,  as  if  in  solving 
Some  mighty,  mystic  problem.— half  it  seems 

Like  some  vast  crystal  wheel,  ever  revolving 
Whose  motion,  earth's,_whose  axle,  earth's  extremes. 
(49) 


50 


FROM   CITY   TO   SURF 


We  gaze  and  gaze,  half  lost  in  dreamy  pleasure, 
On  all  that  slow,  majestic  wave  reveals, 

While  fancy  idly,  vainly,  strives  to  measure 
How  vast  the  cavern  which  its  veil  conceals. 


Whence  come  ye,  O  wild  waters  ?    By  what  scenes 

Of  Majesty  and  Beauty  have  ye  flowed, 
In  the  wide  continent  that  intervenes, 

Ere  yet  ye  mingle  in  this  common  road  ? 

The  Mountain  King,  upon  his  rocky  throne, 

Laves  his  broad  feet  amid  your  rushing  streams, 
And  many  a  vale  of  loveliness  unknown 

Is  softly  mirrored  in  their  crystal  gleams. 

They  come— from  haunts  a  thousand  leagues  away,        ' 
From  ancient  mounds,  with  aeserts  wide  between; 

Cliffs,  whose  tall  summits  catch  the  parting  day, 
And  prairies  blooming  in  eternal  green  ; 

Yet,  the  bright  valley,  and  the  flower-lit  meadow, 

And  the  drear  waste  of  wilderness,  all  past,— 
Like  that  strange  Life,  of  which  thou  art  the  shadow,— 

Must  take  the  inevitable  plunge  at  last. 

Whither  we  know  not;— but  above  the  wave 

A  gentle,  white-robed  spirit  sorrowing  stands. 
Type  of  the  rising  from  that  darker  grave 

Which  waits  the  wanderer  from  Life's  weary  lands. 

How  long  these  wondrous  forms,  these  colors  splendid, 

Their  glory  o'er  the  wilderness  have  thrown  ! 
How  long  that  mighty  anthem  has  ascended 

To  Him  who  wakened  its  eternal  tone  ! 

That  everlasting  utterance  thou  shalt  raise, 

A  thousand  ages  ended,  still  the  same, 
When  this  poor  heart,  that  fain  would  add  its  praise. 

Has  mouldered  to  the  nothing  whence  it  came  ! 

When  the  white  dwellings  of  man's  busy  brood. 

Now  reared  in  myriads  o'er  the  peopled  plain. 
Like  snows  have  vanished,  and  the  ancient  wood 

Shall  echo  to  the  eagle's  shriek  again, 

And  all  the  resJess  crowds  that  now  rejoice 

And  toil  and  traffic,  in  their  eager  moods, 
Shall  pass,— and  nothing  save  thine  awful  voice 

Shall  break  the  hush  of  these  vast  solitudes. 

Henry  Howard  Brownell. 


fc>y.-<l/f-a.«>!:».'#. 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


There  s  nothing  great  or  bright,  thou  glorious  Fall  • 
Thou  mayest  not  to  the  fancy's  sense  recall  - 
The  thunder-riven  cloud,  the  lightning's  leap 
The  stirring  of  the  chambers  of  the  deep  ; 
Earth's  emerald  green,  and  many  tinted  dyes, 
The  fleecy  whiteness  of  the  upper  sHes  ; 

The  tread  of  armies,  thickening  as  they  come, 

The  boom  of  cannon  and  the  beat  of  drum  ; 

The  brow  of  beauty  and  the  form  of  grace, 

The  passion  and  the  prowess  of  our  race  ; 

The  song  of  Homer  in  its  loftiest  hour. 

The  unresisted  sweep  of  human  power'; 

Britannia's  trident  on  the  azure  sea, 

America's  young  shout  of  liberty  ! 

Oh  !  may  the  waves  which  madden  in  thy  deep 

There  spend  their  rage,  nor  climb  the  encircling  steep  • 

And,  till  the  conflict  of  thy  surges  cease, 

The  nations  on  thy  banks  repose  in  peace. 

George  William  Frederick  Howard. 


NIAGARA. 

Majestic  torrent,  God  hath  set  His  seal 

Of  beauty,  might  and  grandeur  on  thy  brow 
For  signs  of  these  to  see,  and  hear,  and  feel- ' 

Beneath  His  shining  sky,  transcendent  thou  ! 

William  C.  Richards. 

(51) 


-f-l^.  i  U'.'SS 


VOYAGE  AU   NIAGARA. 


PAR 


CHARLES  Bigot. 


v    il 


—    SI 


»  i 


I'Hudson. 


E  rendez-vous  est  i\  dix  heures  A  la  gare  du  Central-New-  York;  nous  y 

trouvons    notre    hfite,    M.    Chauncey    Depew.     Nous  y  trouvons  aussi 

I'aimable    secr<^taire  du   comity  am^ricain,  M.   Richard   Butler,    sa  fille 

charmante  et  son    gendre    non  moins  charmant,  M.  et  Mme.  Glenzer. 

Nous  prenons  place  dans  le  train  special  prepare  A  notre  intention  ;  il  se 

compose  du  wagon  particulier  de  M.  Vanderbilt,  qui  contient  une  cuisine, 

un  grand  salon-salle  4  manger,  d6cor6  et  meubl6  avec  autant  de  goftt 

que  de  luxe,  une  chambre  il  coucher,  un  boudoir  coquet  k  I'arri^re.     Nous 

n'aurions  pu  trouver  tous  place  dans  ce    wagon  ;    un  second,  fort  616gant 

lui  aussi,  a  6t(5  joint  au  premier. 

Nous    franchissons  sui'    un   pont   ie    petit  bras  de    mer  qui  enclOt   I'ile 
oft  est  bflti  New  York  ;  nous  voici  maintenant  longeant  la  rive  gauche    de 
Pendant  quatre   heures,  jusqu'A  Albany,  nous  ne  cesserons  pas  de  remonter 
cette  rive,  ayant  toujours  I'Hudson  A  notre  gauche. 

On  a  souvent  oM6br6  la  beaut6  pittoresque  des  rives  de  I'Hudson  ;  on  ne  la  c6l6brera 
jamais  trop.  C'est  vraiment  un  des  plus  beaux  spectacles  qui  se  puissent  imaginer.  Tan- 
t6t  les  collines  s'abaissent  et  descendent  par  une  pente  douce  jusqu'A  la  1 1\  i6re  ;  tantAt  leurs 
sommets  bois6s  dominent  I'eau  A  pic  et  resemblent  A  de  superbes  falaises.  Le  Rhin  entre 
Cologne  et  Mayence,  le  Danube  entre  Orsova  et  Belgrade  n 'off rant  pas  des  paysages 
plus  grandioses.  La  beauts  de  ceux-ci,  c'est  qu'ils  ne  sont  pas  trop  sauvages  :  I'humanitfi 
s'y  montre  A  c6t6  de  la  nature.  A  n6tre  gauche,  au  delA  du  fleuve,  A  notre  droite,  pr6s  de 
nous  sur  les  collines,  nous  d^couvrons  seulement  nombre  de  villas,  de  chateaux  de  tous 
styles,  entour^s  de  vastes  pares.  C'est  ici  que  les  heureux  de  la  vie  choissent  de  pr^f^rence 
leur  residence  d'6t6.  A  droite  de  la  riviere  aussi  bien  qu'A  sa  gauche,  la  vue  doit  6tre 
f^erique. 

Pour  nous,  nous  ne  pouvons  detacher  nos  yeux  de  ce  panorama  qui  sans  cesse  se  trans- 
forme,  comme  un  d6cor  de  th^fttre  qui  se  d^roulerait  devant  nous.     Toujours  au  premier 

(58) 


mmi 


54 


FROM    CITY    TO   SURF. 


plan  I'Hudson  aux  eaux  jaunfltres,  large  A  peu  pr6s  comme  Test  le  Danube  A  Giurgevo,  sur 
lequel  passent  et  se  croisent  des  bateaux  d  vapeur,  des barques,  des  chalands.  Et  de  I'autre 
c6t6  de  I'Hudson  des  collines  et  des  collines,  des  fermes,  des  chflteaux,  des  villages  ou  de» 
petites  villes,  des  champs  et  prairies,  des  bois  surtout  et  des  forfits.  A  midi,  nous  aperce- 
vons  A  mi-hauteur  des  collines,  sur  la  flVe  droite  de  I'Hudson,  West-Point,  I'ficole  de  Saint- 
Cyr  am^ricaine.  Aucun  emplacement  plus  admirable  que  celui-ci.  Nos  futurs  officiers, 
enfermds  au  fond  d'une  cuvette  dans  la  vielle  maison  bfttie  par  Mme.  Maintenon,  seraient 
jaloux  de  leurs  ^mules  du  nouveau  monde,  s'il  leur  ^tait  donn6  de  voir  leur  admirable 
installation.  Un  profcsseur  de  Saint-Cyr  voudrait  bien  pouvoir  s'arrfiter  et  visiter  West- 
Point. 

Albany   franchi,    I'aspect   du    pays  change.     Nous    avons  quitt6 

I'Hudson,  nous  dirigeant  vers  le  Nord.     Nous  remontons  un  petit 

affluent  de  I'Hudson,  tantOt  rividre,  tantAt  presque  torrent,  aux 

rives  sauvages  et  accident^es.     Les  villes  et  les  villages  sont 

plus  rares  ;    nous  sommes    en  pleme  campagne    americaine. 

Et  celle-ci  ne  ressemble  pas  A  nos  campagnes  de  la  France, 

de  la  Belgique,  de  la  Hollande,  de  I'Angleterre  ou  de  TAIie- 

magne  du  Sud,  ofi  la  terre  a  tant  de  prix,  est  si  disput<^e  et  si 

morcel6e.     Beaucoup  de  landes,  beaucoup  de  bruyfires  aussi; 

partout  lA  oi'i  les  arbres    ont  gard^  leurs   feuilles,  des  tons 

d'up.  rouge  incarnat,  se  ddtachant  sur  le  sol  noir&tre  et 

I'herbe  palie.      A  la  matincJe  grise  et  couverte  a  succ6d6 

une  aprds-midi  splendide;  I'air  est  16ger  et  transparent ; 

le  ciel  n'a  plus  le  moindre  nuage;  nous  voyons  le  soleil 

se  coucher  dans  toute  sa  gloire,  au  milieu  d'une  aureole 

flamboyante. 

Le  diner  est  servi.     A  peine  est-il   achev6  joyeuse- 
ment  que  le   train   s'arrfite  encore,   et,   au  moment  oft 
Au-d*nu*  It  chut*  Amtricain*.  nous  y  pensions  le  moins,    M.    Depew    nous    annonce 

que  nous  sommes  arrives  au  Niagara.  II  est  neuf  heures  precises;  nous  avons  fait  en 
onze  heures  exactement  I'^norme  trajet  de  New- York  aux  chutes.  Pour  nous  rendre  A 
I'hdtel,  nous  n'avons  qu'une  rue  A  traverser.  Nous  sommes  bien  au  Niagara  ;  tout  pr6s  de 
nous,  un  peu  A  notre  gauche,  nous  entendons  la  voix  incessante,  A  la  fois  sourde  et  forte, 
des  masses  d'eaii  qui  se  pr^cipitent. 

Nous  sommes  trop  pr6s  du  monstre  pour  r6sister  A  la  tentation  de  I'approcher  davantage 
encore.  La  nuit  est  claire,  piqu^e  d'innombrables^toiles  qui  scintillent.  Une  toute  petite 
lune,  une  lune  nouvelle,  montre  dans  un  coin  du  firmament  son  mince  croissant.  C'est  bien 
"I'obscure  clart6  "  dont  a  parl6  16  po6te.  Quand  nous  sommes  at»iv6s,  apr^s  une  de- 
scente  de  cinq  minutes,  au  bord.  du  Niagara,  ceux  qui  ont  de  bons  yeux  peuvent  d^jA. 
discerner  les  deux  chutes  et  I'tle  qui  les  s6pare;  lesautresapergoiventseulement,  au-dessus 
des  chutf  s,  les  taches  blanches  qui  bouillonnent,  au-df,ssous  des  chutes,  comme  un  nuage 
blanc  qui  monte  de  1'  abime.     Dans  le  silence  et  le  sommeil  de  la  nature  qui  nous  environne,. 


.  I.  .  '•■  ..i.»r 


■■WT    I^^J^t     ;. 


VOYAGE   AU    NIAGARA. 


SA 


irgevo,  sur 
,  de  I'autre 
;rs  ou  de> 
»us  aperce- 
B  de  Saint- 
s  officiers, 
m,  seraient 
admirable 
siter  West- 

ons  quitt^ 
ns  un  petit 
orrent,  aux 
illages  sont 
amuricaine. 
!  la  France, 
Li  de  I'Alle- 
sput^e  et  si 
r^res  aussi; 
s,  des  tons 
noirfttre  et 
e  a  succ6d6 
ransparent ; 
ns  le  soleil 
une  aureole 

v6  joyeuse- 
moment  ofi 
IS  annonce 
)ns  fait  en 
us  rendre  A. 
out  pr6s  de 
de  et  forte, 

davantage 
toute  petite 

C'est  bien 
fes  une  de- 

uvent  d^jA. 
t,  au-dessus 
e  un  nuage 

environne. 


ce  qui  nous  frappe  le  plus,  c'est  la  grande  voix  du  Niagara,  tuujours  egale,  qui  jamais  ne 
s'enfle  ni  ne  s'abaisse ;  toujours  grave,  imposante  et  inexorable  comme  la  fatality  ;  plus 
menaqante  qu'aucun  ^clat  de  fureur ;  qui  paraft  d'autant  plus  formidable  qu'on  I'^coute 
plus  longtemps. 

Si  j'^tais  un  grand  peintre  la  plume  A  la  main  M.  Zola  ou  M.  Pierre  Loti  par  example — 
et  il  faudrait  se  sentir  un  grand  peintre  pour  entreprendre  cette  tilche — j'-  ssayerais  de 
vous  ddcrire,  A  mon  tour,  ce  que  j'ai  vu  au  Niagara.  Mon  ambition,  plus  modeste,  sera 
seulement  de  faire  comprendre  ce  qu'est  le  Niagara,  et  de  reconter  notre  visite. 

Le  Nord  de  TAm^rique  forme  un  immense  plateau  sur  lequel  les  neiges  tombent  et 
s'accumulent  durant  la  longue  saison  de  I'hiver.  Lorsque  les  neiges  se  fondent,  elles 
d^versent  leurs  eaux  dans  les  parties  basses  et  centrales  de  ce  plateau,  dans  cinq  grandes 


cuvettes,  dans  ces  lacs  qui  s'appellent  le  lac  'Sup^rieur,  le  lac  Michigan,  le  lac  Huron,  le 
lac  firi6  et  le  lac  Ontario.  De  ce  dernier  sort  le  Saint-Laurent,  ce  fleuve  fenorme  au 
cours  rapide,  aux  eaux  claires,  qui  charrie  t\  I'ocean  Atlantique  le  trop-plein  des  eaux  de 
ces  lacs.  Les  trois  premiers  et  les  trois  plus  considerables,  les  lacs  Sup^rieur,  Michigan  et 
Huron,  communiquent  entre  eux  ;  un  large  canal  fait  &  son  tour  communiquer  le  lac 
Huron  avec  le  lac  firi^.  Mais  entre  le  lac  lilri6  et  le  lac  Ontario  un  ^norme  obstacle,  un 
seuil  rocher  d'une  ^paisseur  de  trente-six  milles,  de  plus  de  quatorze  lieues,  s'6l6ve. 
Ce  seuil  de  rocher  n'a  pu  arreter  I'eau  d^bordante  ;  elle  s'est  fray^  un  passage  A  travers 
I'obstacle ;  elle  s'est  ouverte  sa  voie.  Cette  voie,  c'est  la  riviere  du  Niagara.  Entre  le 
lac  tjt'ii  et  le  lac  Ontario  ] .  difference  de  niveau  est  considerable.  L'eau  du  lac  £rie  a 
pu  franchir  le  seuil  de  rochei,  elle  n'a  pu  s'y  creuser  un  lit  qui,  par  une  pente  douce,  la 
conduise  insensiblement  au  lac  Ontario.     Une   chute  brusque  et  violente  ne  pouvait 


VS'^f^^'-'' 


mj;0ii 


66 


FROM  c:nY   ro  surf. 


manquer  de  sc  produire  lA  ofi  {'obstacle  s'arrf-terait  tout  A    coup,  oh  se  manifesterait  la 
diff<5rence  des  deux  niveaux. 

II  fut  un  temps  certaitiemeiu  oft  la  chute  tin  Niagara  sc  faisait  i\  I'entrf'ie  du  lac  Ontario 
lui-mf'm<.',  iV  son  bord  escarpt'i  de  roucst.  I,e  Niagara  se  pn'cipitait  clans  le  lac  mf'me, 
dune  hauteur  de  cent  metres  au  moins,  avec  sa  masse  d'eau  immense  ;  et  ce  devait  f'tre 
alor»  un  prodigieux  spectacle,  aucjuel  nul  homme  n'a  assist*''.  Mais  pen  A  pen  I'eau  a  \is6 
la  roche  A  I'endroit  oft  elle  se  pn5cipitait  ;  elle  I'a  lim6e,  entamc-e,  dc'-truite  ;  et  ainsi  dc 
jour  en  jour,  d'annc'je  en  ann6e,  de  siftcle  en  si^cle,  seloignant  de  la  rive  de  I'Onlario,  la 
chute  du  Niagara  a  recuU'  vers  le  lac  Illri^.  Elle  est  aujourd'hui  prestiue  au  milieu  de 
I'espace  qui  sc'-pare  les  deux  lacs  ;  A  cjuatorze  milles  de  I'un,  A  vingt-deux  milles  de  I'autre. 
Le  Niagara  ne  cesse  de  continuer  son  a-uvre  ;  doucemeiu,  patiemment,  invinciblement,  il 
use  la  roche  de  laquelle  il  se  pr(5cipite.  On  a  pu  mesurer  son  travail  depuis  qu'on 
I'observe  ;  aujourd'hui  des  gc'iologues  pouraient  determiner  approximativement  de  combien 
de  milliers  d'annc^es  le  Niagara  est  Ag{\  lis  pouraient  nous  dire  aussi  dans  combien  de 
milliers  d'ann(''es  il  aura  achev<5  de  creuser  entre  les  deux  lacs  son  passage  tourment6 
et  violent.  II  n'y  aura  plus  alors  de  chute  du  Niagara;  il  n'y  aura  qu'un  chenal  iHroit  oft 
I'eau  se  pr^cipitera,  impc'tueuse,  tourbillonnante  et  furieuse,  avec  rapiditc'i  de  la  fl^che 
Mais,  de  meme  que  Thumanit^  n'a  pas  vu  le  commencement  de  ce  travail,  il  est  possible 
qu'elle  n'en  voie  pas  la  fin. 

Actuellement,  je  I'ai  dit,  la  chute  du  Niagara  est  situ^e  au  milieu  des  terres,  et  voici 
I'aspect  qu'elle  nous  pr^sente.  Au-dessus  dc  la  chute,  une  masse  d'eau  large,  relativement 
peu  profonde,  courant  d'une  vitesse  extreme  sur  un  lit  form6  de  blocs  de  rocher  d(5tach6s  et 
emport^s  par  le  torrent.  Tne  ile  situ6e  au  milieu  du  courant,  flanqu6e  de  quelques  ilots  plus 
petits,  rile  des  Ch6vres  {Goa/  Island),  divise  cette  masse  d'eau  en  deux  bras  in^gaux.  Le 
petit  bras  court  A  droite,  du  cat<5  do  la  rive  am^ricaine,  car  le  Niagara  forme  la  liraite  entre 
les  fitats-Unis  et  la  Canada  ;  le  grand  bras,  trois  fois  large  comme  le  premier,  court  A 
gauche,  du  c0t6  de  la  rive  canadienne,  I'eau,  violemment  roul6e  sur  ces  blocs  de  rocher 
rejaillit,  bondit,  tourbillonne  et  dcume  en  tous  sens ;  ce  sont  \i\  ce  que  Ton  appelle  les 
"  petits  rapides." 

Au-dessous,  A  I'endroit  oft  se  termine  Goat  Island,  sont  les  chutes.  D'un  c6t6,  la  chute 
am^ricaine,  la  chute  du  petit  bras,  la  petite  chute;  de  I'autre,  la  grande  chute,  la  chute  can- 
adienne, le  Horse-shoe,  le  Fer-A-cheval,  ainsi  nomm6e  A  cause  de  sa  forme.  De  I'une 
comme  de  I'autre,  d'une  hauteur  de  cinquante-deux  metres,  le  Niagara  tout  entier  se  pr6- 
cipite  dans  une  immense  cuve  de  roc,  aux  bords  taill6s  A  pic.  Et  plus  bas  maintenant,  c'est 
par  une  route  6troite,  resserr6e  entre  deux  parois  escarp6es,  que  I'eau,  incessamment 
vers^e  par  les  deux  chutes,  se  rue  vers  le  lac  Ontario. 

On  a  peine  d'abord  A  concevoir  au'elle  puisse  trouver  place  dans  ce  chenal  resserr6.  On 
n'est  pas  6tonn6  d'  apprendre  qu'elle  y  atteigne  la  profondenr  effrayante  de  cent  quatre- 
vingt-dix  pieds  anglais,  pr6s  de  soixante  metres,  une  profondeur  tout  juste  6gale  A  lA  hau- 
teur qui  s^pare  le  niveau  de  I'eau  de  celui  de  rives  elles-m^mes.  On  divine  aussi  quels 
effrayants  remous,  quelles  luttes  entre  les  divers  courants  s'agitant  dans  cette  profondeur 
de  soixante  metres.     Et  c'est  en  eifet  au-dessous  des  chutes  du  Niagara,  A  une  distance  de 


m 


mm 


W" 


V()YA(;K    AU    NIAdARA. 


57 


c  Ontario 
ic  mAme, 
evait  f*tre 
eau  a  us<^ 
.  ainsi  de 
ntario,  la 

milieu  de 
de  I'autre. 
ilement,  il 
iis  qu'on 
;  combien 
imbien  de 
;ourment6 
1  /'troit  oft 

la  fl^che 
>t  possible 

:s,  et  voici 
lativement 
l^tach^s  et 
i  ilots  plus 
gaux.  Le 
mite  entre 
court  & 
de  rocher 
ppelle  les 

la  chute 

chute  can- 

De  I'une 

ier  se  pr6- 

nant,  c'est 

ssamment 

sserr6.  On 
nt  quatre- 
A  lA  hau- 
lussi  quels 
rofondeur 
istance  de 


trois  niilles  environ  que  se  produisent  ces  gigantesques  lourbilloiiH  qiu-  I'oti  nomme  les 

"  f^rands  rapides  "  et  qui  ont  coftto  la  vie  au  t<^m^^rairc  capitainc  W'chI). 

Maintenant  que  j'ai  donni'>  au  lecteur  une  image  de  la  scftnc  aussi  exacte  qu'il  a  d6- 

pendu  de  mni,  laissez-moi  vous  reconter  bruWement  notn-  visite. 

II  avail  f)U-  convi;nue  que  le  lundi  matin  tout  Ic  monde  scrait  prPt  A  huit  heurcsexact- 

ement :     vous  pensez  bien  que    personne  n'a  6t6  en  retard.      Les  jiromesses  du  soleil 

couchant  d'hier  n'ont  pas  «5t«'' 
unc  mensunge  :  le  matint^e 
est  radieuse  et  met  la  joie 
dans  tous  les  yeux  et  tous 
les  coeurs.  Nous  partons 
sous  la  conduite  de  surin- 
tendant  du  Niagara  ;  car  le 
Niagara  est  aujourd'hui  pro- 
pri(5t(5  nationale  restitut*'"  ^ 
la  nature,  et  une  fonction- 
naire  y  repr^sente  le  gouv- 
ernement.  II  a  bien  voulu 
se  faire  lui-m6me  notre  obli- 
geant  cicerone. 

Nous  franchissons  le  petit 
bras,  le  bras  amdricaine,  sur 
un  pont  dont  le  milieu 
s'appuie  sur  un  dtroit  tiet. 
En  amont,  I'eau  moutonne, 
se  brise  sur  les  blocs  de 
rocher,  rejaillit  en  crates 
blanches,  puis  rebondit  et 
jaillit  encore.  C'est  un  bruit 
qui  tantAt  s'enfle,  tantdt 
diniinue  ;  et,  sous  le  pont' 
avec  une  imp^tuosit*^-  qui, 
attire,  qui  donne  le  vertige, 

Au-duMut  l(  Chut*  Canaolinne.  le      COUraUt       fuit.  II      VOUS 

souvient  de  ces  tableaux  oft  RuysdaSl  a  r^present^  des  torrents  furieux,  sautant  sur 
leur  lit  de  pierre ;  alentour,  un  paysage  d'hiver  nu,  d6charn6,  sauvage  ;  sur  I'eau  noire 
et  qu'on  sent  claire  cependant,  des  cental.ies  de  taches  blanches  qui  bouillonnent. 
Grandissez  par  I'imagination,  en  6normes  proportions,  un  de  ces  paysages  de  Ruysda'jl  : 
vous  aurez  quelque  id^e  du  spectacle  que  nous  offre  en  cette  saison  la  travers^e  dr.  petit 
bras  du  Niagara. 

Nous  voici  dans  Tile  des  Ch6vres,  h  laquelle  il  ne  manque,  pour  justifier  son  nom,  que 
des  chdvres.     On  y  trac6  des  allees  pour  les  voitures  et  des  chemins  plus  6troits  pour  les 


KkOM   CUV    TO  SURF. 


pWtons.  Elle  est  rcmplie  d'arbrcs  d^  toute  essence,  d'ofi  tomljciit  en  re  moment  Ie» 
dernii'Tcs  feuilles.  I)j  distance  en  distance,  ties  inscriptions  avertisscnt  qu'il  fst  defendii, 
sous  peine  dt-  I'amende  ct  de  l.\  prison,  de  toucher  ici  A  cjuoi  que  ce  soit,  de  cueillir  une  fleur 
ou  un  brin  d'herbe,  de  casser  une  branche.  Trois  ou  (|uatre  minutes  nous  Huffisent  pour 
arriver  i\  IV-xtremiti'i  i;iferieure  de  I'ile,  au  bord  du  gouffre.  Ici,  un  escalier  muni  d'une 
rampe  soiide  a  i!t6  ^tabli ;  nous  traversons  un  ponceau,  nous  entrons  dans  un  ilot,  et  voici 
devant  nous,  tout  prds  de  nous,  A  notrc  droite,  la  chute  am6ricaine.  Qu'on  sc  figure  une 
immense  table  de  marbrc  A  \'6x.trem'\t6  arrondic  en  forme  d'arc  de  cercle  :  telle  est  la  petite 
chute.  L'eau  arrive  rapide,  transparente,  glissant  sur  la  table  de  marbre  qu'elle  semble 
I6cher ;    soudain   le   terrain   lui   manque;   elle  s'^lance  dans  I'abtme  d'une   hauteur  de 


L«t  Rtpidu  CuntditnnM,  d*  I'll*  de*  ChcvrM, 


cinquante-deux  metres  avec  un  fracas  assourdissant,  ddcrivant  une  l^g6re  courbe  ;  elle 
avance  d'un  mouvement  tou jours  6g&\,  impassible  et  irresistible.  Du  fond  du  gouffre 
rejaillit  presqu'a  mi-hauteur  un  dot  d'^cume  blanche.  L'air  est  rempli  tout  autour  de 
nous  de  fines  gouttelettes  d'eau  r^duite  en  poussidre.  Sur  le  nuage  blanc,  sous  le  clair 
soleil,  un  arc-en-ciel  nous  montre  ses  sept  couleurs  brillantes  et  un  peu  brutales.  Sous 
nos  pieds,  presque  au  niveau  de  l'eau  du  gouffre,  nous  voyons  une  mince  passerelle  jet^e 
parmi  les  blocs  de  rocher  :  c'est  ici  que  Ton  pent  s'avancer,  p6n6trer  sous  la  chute  meme, 
s'aventurer  sur  la  pierre  glissante  entre  le  rocher  et  I'^paisse  nappe  d'eau  qui  tombe. 
Nombre  d'audacieuses  am^ricaines,  se  tenant  par  le  main,  n'h^sitent  pas  A  se  hasarder  lA  ; 
mais  personne  dans  la  Delegation  ne  se  sent  I'humeur  assez  hardie  ou  ie  pied  assez  solide 
pour  leur  faire  concurrence.     On  assure,  du  reste,  que  ceux  et  celles  qui  ont  fait  cette 


VOVAliK    AU    NIA(iAKA. 


inument  let 
est  (lefenclii, 
llir  une  fleur 
iftiscnt  pour 

muni  d'unc 
Slot,  et  voici 
c  figure  une 
>  est  la  petite 
I'elle  semble 

hauteur  de 


'^'-*'**^ 


^^'■■^M. 


courbe  ;  elle 

du  gouffre 

lit  autour  de 

sous  le  clair 

utales.     Sous 

sserelle  jet^e 

chute  mfime, 

qui  tombe. 

hasarder  li\  ; 

assez  solide 

int  fait  cette 


folie  ne  sunt  jjui^re  tenti^s  de  la  ri'nouveler  ;  ( «•  (|Ui!  Ton  en  rapporte  le  plu«,  ce  nont  de» 
cauchemars. 

Notre  cicerone  nous  conduit  lu.unt'inant  de  i'.iutre  t:Att'  de  I'ile  des  (M»i\vres,  au  bra» 
canadien  du  Niat{ara.  Nous  voici  tout  pr«>s  tic  la  ttrande  chute,  du  Hontshot  ;  mais  on 
ne  la  voit  ici  (]u'obli(|uenient  et  imparfaitment. 

Nous  remontons  I'tle  des  ChAvres  ;  nous  franchissons  un  ilot,  puis  un  second;  nou» 
nous  trouvons  bientAt  au  i)or{|  de  I'eau  bouillonnantc.  C'est  le  mi'^me  spectacle  que  celui 
du  petit  bras  mais  combien  plus  vaste  et  plus  saississant  !  I.es  blocs  entraini'<H  par  le 
courant  sunt  i\  la  fois  plus  nombreux  et  plus  gros  ;  1 1  nappe  d'eau  semble  larjje  conimc  la 
Seine  un  peu  au-dessus  de  Rouen.  Kt  partout,  sur  cette  na|)pe  (r;'au,  des  cri'tes  blanches, 
des  bouillonnements  furieux,  des  tourbillons,  tandis  (|ue  des  mujiissements  frappent  et 
^pouvantent  roreille.  De  seconde  en  seconde,  le  spectacle  se  transforme,  et  pourtant  tl 
est  toujours  le  mfime. 

Notre  cicerone  nous  ran«>nc  sur  la  rive  anu'ricaine,  au  bord  du  gouffre.  'I'out  pr6s> 
i\  notre  gauche,  la  ohute  am«5ricaine  s»'  pn'cipitt^  ;  au  fond,  en  face  de  nous,  le  terrible 
Horseshoe,  le  Fer-^MJheval,  lance  dans  I'abtme  sa  trombe  d'eau  toute  blanche.  Jamais  nom 
ne  fut  mieux  choisi  que  ce  nom  de  "  fer-i\cheval."  Au  centre,  le  rocher  se  creuse  pro- 
fond^Jment,  tanilis  qu'il  sasanct  ;\  droite  et  i\  gauche.  Quand  nous  avons  bien  regard^ 
ce  spectacle,  on  nous  iait  preii  e  place  -■  ms  un  jietit  chemin  de  fer  funiculaire  qui  descend 
dans  le  rocher  avec  une  inclinaison  df  iarantccin({  degn'-s  environ.  Kn  moins  d'une 
minute  nous  sommes  au  fond  du  goi  .n ;,  presquc  au  niveau  de  I'eau.  Nous  voyons  la 
chute  am^ricaine  tomber  \\  c  '  '  «  nous,  presqii  ur  nos  totes  ;  nous  somm.-s  enveloppt'ia 
dune  pluie  fine. 

Lorsque  nous  remontons,  un  photographc  est  la  avec  ■  poareils  tout  prets,  qui  veut 
prendre  le  groupe  de  la  Diil^gation.  (''est,  du  reste,  une  mode  ami^ricaine  de  se  faire  pho- 
tographier  au  Niagara.  Et  I'air  est  si  pur  en  effet,  que  les  photographies  y  viennent  admira- 
blement.  II  serait  difficile  d'en  imaginer  de  plus  belles  que  celles  que  nous  voyons  ici,  de 
toutes  grandeurs,  A  tons  les  prix,  qui  reprt^sentent  le  Niagara  sous  tous  ses  aspects. 

Nou-i  montons  maintenant  en  voiture.  Un  peu  au-dessous  du  gouffre,  nous  traverson* 
le  Niagara  sur  un  pont  en  fer  hardi  et  d'une  seule  arche;  le  Niagara  est  large,  en  cet 
endroit,  A  peu  pr6s  comme  la  Seine  au  ponl  des  Saints- P^res.  1,'eau  est  claire,  d"un  bleu 
pflle,  presque  verdiitre,  avec  un  tklat  d'eniail  persan.  C'est  pres  d'ici  que  Blondin 
traversait  le  iv  i,  ra  et  faisait  sur  son  fd  ses  etonnants  exercice»,  portant  sur  son 
dos,  tantOt  ce  poele  sur  lequel  il  fabriquuit  et  mangeaif  une  omelette  au  milieu  dit 
passage,  tantfit  un  homme  qui  certes   ne  devait  p.is  f'tre,  plus  que  lui,  uii  poltron. 

Le  po  !■  en  fer  est  6troit  ;  il  n'a  que  la  largeur  d'une  voiture.  Le  givre  et  les  glaces 
s'y  "Cf  iinulent  en  telles  quantities  durant  la  saison  d'hiver,  que  I'audace  am<'ricaine  ^  lle- 
m(?me  a  craint  qu'en  Ic  faisant  plus  large  il  ne  fit';chit  sous  le  poids.  Apr6s  le  succds 
de  I'exptSri^nce,  il  est  question  de  I't'dargir  aujourd'hui. 

Le  pont  franchi,  nous  sommes  dans  le  Canada,  sur  le  domaine  de  Sa  gracieuse  Majesty 
britannique,  I'imp^ratrice  des  Indes.  Nous  remontons  la  riye  canadienne  durant  quelques 
centaines  de  pas  ;  nous  nous  retrouvons  au  bord  du  gouffre,  tout  pres  du  Horseshoe.      De 


60 


FROM   CITY   TO    SURF. 


tous  les  spectacles  que  nous  avons  eus  jusqu'ici  sous  les  yeux,  celui-ci  est  le  plus  mag- 
nifique.  C'est  un  fleuve  enorme  qui  tombe  incessamment,  avec  un  fracas  assourdissant,  du 
Fer-A-cheval.  L'immense  cuve  s'enfonce  devant  nous.  Rien  de  plus  joli,  de  plus  vari6. 
de  plus  harmonieux  meme,  au  point  de  vue  de  la  couleur,  que  I'ile  des  Ch6vres  avec  son 
paysage  d^jA  presque  depouillti,  \6  rive  am6ricaine  avec  le  village  Niagara,  I'eau  verdfttre 
dans  le  lointain,  le  nuage  blanc,  6pais  au  fond,  de  plus  en  plus  Idger  A  mesure  qu'il  s'6l6ve 
de  I'eau  bris<5e  dans  la  chute,  qui  remonte  en  mince  poussidre  ;  les  arcs-en-ciel  qui  se  for- 
ment  ^AetlA  et  se  d^placent,  par  cette  superbe  journue,  A  mesure  que  le  spec'ateur  change 
de  place  lui-mSme.  Mais  on  n'a  gudre  la  pens^e  de  s'arrSter  A  ce  qu'offre  de  gracieux  et  de 
joli  ce  spectacle.     C'est  i'effet  imposant,  terrible,  du  Horseshoe,  de  sa  masse  d'eau  im- 


fell 


\\    A   1 V":;   V     : 


^<^C-- 


•n^tmth^i 


%   '%^ 


.■•-^ 


■^•^^^ 


Vue  Generale  de  let  Chutea  de  NIagare,  de  la  Rive  Canadienne. 

ine  :  ^e,  qui  s'empare  de  I'esprit  et  qui  le  domine.  Les  plus  bavards  eux-mSmes  n'euprou- 
Tent  ici  qu'un  besoin  :  celui  de  se  tair."*. 

La  roche  est  plus  tendre  d'  ce  c6ie  que  sur  la  rive  am^ricaine.  Cnaque  ann^e,  le 
Horseshoe  se  creuse  davantage.""  C'est  par  ici  que  le  Niagara  se  fraye  son  lit.  Un  jour 
viendra  sans  doute — dans  quelquds  siecles — of;  11  passera  tout  entier  de  ce  c6tfe  de  I'ile  des 
Chevres,  od  la  chute  am^ricaine  aura  disparu. 

Nous  n'avons  plus  A  visiter  que  les  grands  rapides,  A  quelques  milles  au-dessous  des 
chutes.  En  un  quart  d'heure  les  voitures  nous  y  ont  conduits.  Nous  trouvons  lA  un  nou- 
veau  chemin  de  fer  funiculaire,  qui  nous  fait  descendre  presque  au  niveau  de  I'eau.     Rien 


■*  Depuis  notre  voyage  un  <?boulement  s'est  en  effet  produit  au  Horseshoe  et  a  entrainl^  la  chute  de  38,ooo 
m^res  cubes  de  rocher. 


T'«ftM**P?r**N=a«.' 


VOYAGE   AU    NIAGARA. 


61 


plus  mag- 
rdissant,  du 

plus  vari6. 
s  avec  son 
lu  verdfitre 
|u'il  s'6l6ve 
1  qui  se  for- 
teur  change 
acieux  etde 
;  d'eau  im- 


es  n  euprou- 

le  ann6e,  le 
it.  Un  jour 
^  de  Tile  des 

-dessous  des 
s  lA  un  nou- 
I'eau.     Rien 

hute  de  a8,ooo 


ne  saurait  donner  I'idee  de  cette  riviere,  profonde  de  soixante-dix  metres,  qui,  dans  le  lit 
«5troit  qui  I'emprisonne,  sur  les  blocs  de  roche  qui  en  ferment  le  fond,  plus  rapide  que  le 
torrent  le  plus  furieux,  s'agite,  tournoie,  tourbillonne.  J'ai  vu,  I'autre  ann^-e,  le  Danube 
aux  Fortes  de  Fer  ;  je  me  souviens  des  ^paves  qui  passaient  au  fil  de  I'eau,  rapides  comme 
la  fleche;  j'entends  encore  les  coups  de  piston  rep6t6s  de  la  machine,  luttant  pour  remonter 
le  courant ;  mais  en  comparaison  du  Niagara  le  Danube  lui-mfime,  aux  Portes  de  Fer,  n'est 
qu'un  ruisseau  paisible. 

Notre  visite  a  dur^'  quatre  longues  heures  qui  ont  pass6  aussi  vite  qu'une  seule.     Quand 
j'essaye   de   resumer  Timpression  d'j  cette  matinee,  je  ne  trouve 
qu'un   mot   que    I'exprime    bien  ;   c'est  le  mot  de  terreur.     Le 
Niagara  n'est  pas  seulement  grand,  imposant,  magnifique  :  il  est 
terrible,  il  est  formidable,  il  est  effroyable.      Plus  on    visite, 
plus  on  s'arrete,  plus  on  regarde,  plus  le  sentiment 
de  I'effroi  va  croissant.     C'est  un  puissance  de  la 
nature    d^chain^e,     aupr6s     de    laquelle 
rhomme  n'est  rien. 

Si  I'antiquil^  eftt  connu 
le  Niagara,  elle  I'eftt  divinis^ 
bien  plus  encore  que  Cha- 
rybde  et  Scylia  ou  les  Roches 
Sympl^gades.  Elle  eftt  offert 
des  victimes  au  monstre  tou- 
sant.  Le  Niagara  n'est,  si 
chute  d'eau  agrandie,  le 
lot  de  pesanteur  que  nous 
lorsque  nous  versons  le  matin 
de  I'eau  dans  notre  cuvette,  le  mSme  i-lT^J^^^Si^^^  ph<^nom6ne   que  nous  trou- 

vons  au  d^versoir  de  tous  les  moulins  dans  les  cascades  des  montagnes,  &  la  chute 
du  Rhin  ft  Schaffouse  ;  mais  ici  les  proportions  sont  tellement  sup6rieures  &  nos  mesures 
ordinaiies,  I'oeil  et  I'oreille  en  m§me  temps  en  regoivent  un  tel  choc,  que  tous  nos  nerfs- 
sont  6branl6s,  notre  raison  se  tait,  notre  imagination  meme  est  d6pass6e  et  confondue  ;  on 
se  sent  terrass^  et  ecras^.  N'y  eftt-il  en  Am^rique  ft  voir  que  la  Niagara,  il  faudrait  y- 
venir.  Je  n'ai  r6contr(5  dans  tous  mes  voyages  qu'une  seule  impression  aussi  forte,  aussi 
unique  en  un  autre  genre :  celle  que  Ton  6prouve  dans  les  Pyr^n^es,  lorsqu'au  sortir  du 
Chaos  on  p6n6tre  tout  ft  coup  dans  le  merveilleux  Cirque  de  Gavarnie,  comme  arriv6 
devant  cette  immense  muraille  de  rocher  demi-circulaire,  ft  la  limite  meme  du  monde. 

Avant  notre  depart,  fix6  ft  quatre  heures,  nous  nous  r^pandons  dans  les  boutiques  pour 
acheter  des  photographies,  de  coquets  (5ventails  de  plumes  blanches,  des  souvenirs  du 
Niagara,  ainsi  qu'ils  sied  A  tout  touriste  qui  se  respecte.  Notre  train  special  nous  m6ne 
d'abord  de  long  de  la  rive  am^ricaine  faire  une  petite  promenade  jusqu'au  lac  Ontario, 
Nous  ne  cessons  d'avoir  la  riviere  A  nos  pieds  A  notre  gauche  ;  de  la  hauteur  oft  nous, 
sommes    on    dirait,  ft  la   voir,   un    m^tal  en   fusion.     Nous    revenons    au    Niagara,    et 


L'Etulitr  •  IM 
Grandn  Ripidet.     ^_„'  , 

jours  rugis- 
vous   voulez,    qu'une 
m§me  ph6nom6ne  de  la 
voyons       s'accomplir 


J 


^SSSSBIS 


FROM   CITY   TO   SURF 


62 


maintenant  en  route  pour  le  retour  !  Bientdt  nous  avons  attaint  le  lac  firi<5,  semblable  k 
une  vaste  mer  sur  laquelle  ncviguent  des  flottes.  Nous  atteignons  Buffalo,  en  train  de 
devenir  une  des  grandes  villes  de  I'Am^rique  et  d'ofi  part  le  canal  de  I'firi^,  qui  va  H  Albany 
rejoindre  I'Hudson. 

Apr^s  une  apr^s-midi  magnifique,  un  coucher  de  soleil  splendide,  la  nuit  est  tout  &  fait 
tombee;  M.  Depew  fait  servir  le  diner, — le  diner  d'adieu  offert  &  la  D^ldgation.  Le  temps 
superbe,  le  voyage  si  parfaitenientr6ussi,rincomparable  spectacle  dont  nous  venons  de  jouir 
ont  mis  tous  les  esprits  en  belle  humeur.  Dans  un  charmant  discours  qu'il  nous  addresse  au 
dessert,  M.  Depew  nous  reconte  comment  sa  famille  est  d'orgine  franqaise;  elle  s'appelait 
Dupuis  alors.     II  a  dans  les  veines  du  sang  de  presque  toutes  les  nations  d'Europe.     Avec 


frf 

u 


Lm  Qnndci  RipidM  TgutblllonnM. 


tout  cela,  il  est  Am^ricain,  bien  Am^ricain.  Du  combten  d'autres  bons  patriotes  de  1' Union, 
■cette  histoire  n'est-elle  pas  I'histoire!  Quoi  qu'on  en  disc,  ce  n'est  pas  I'unit^  de  race,  c'est 
r^ducation  commune  qui  fait  les  nations 

L'heure  est  venue  de  souhaiter  le  bonsoir  aprSs  une  longue  causerie.  Notre  h6te, 
pr6voyant  en  tout,  a  fait  attacher  &  notre  train  special  deux  sieeping-cars.  Chacun  trouve 
une  cliambre  A  coucher  qui  I'attend,  et  A  c6t6  de  la  chambre  A  coucher,  un  cabinet  de 
toilette.  Aprds  une  nuit  de  paisible  sommeil,  quand  nous  nous  r^veillons  au  petit  jour 
nous  nous  retrouvons  sur  le  bord  de  I'Hudson.  II  est  sept  heures  un  quart  quand  le 
train  s'arr6te  dans  la  gare  de  New- York.  II  ne  nous  reste  qu'A  remercier  avjc  effusion  le 
president  du  Central-New-  York,  A  qui  nous  devrons  certainement  le  plus  pr^cieux  souvenir 
de  n6tre  voyage  en  Am^rique! — De  Paris  au  Niagara,  1886. 


imblable  & 
n  train  de 
I  &  Albany 

tout  &  fait 
Le  temps 
ns  de  jouir 
ddresse  au 
;  s'appelait 
►pe.     Avec 


de  rUnion, 
race,  c'est 

otre  h6te, 
cun  trouve 
cabinet  de 

petit  jour 
t  quand  le 

effusion  le 
X  souvenir 


LE  NIAGARA. 


L'onde  majesteuse  avec  lenteur  s'^coule; 
Puis,  sortant  tout  &  coup  de  se  calme  trompeur, 
Furieux,  et  fraffant  les  6chos  de  stupeur, 
Dans  Tabime  sans  fond  le  fleuve  immense  croule. 

C'est  la  chute  !  son  bruit  de  tonnerre  fait  peur 
M§me  aux  oiseaux  errants,  qui  s'61oignent  en  foule 
Du  gouffre  formidable,  oft  I'arc-en-ciel  d^roule 
Son  ^charpe  de  feu  sur  un  lit  de  vapeur. 

Tout  tremble  ;  en  un  instant  cette  6norme  avalanche 
D'eau  verte  se  transforme  en  monts  d'^cume  blanche, 
Farouches,  ^perdus,  bondissant,  mugissant 

Et  pourtant,  6  mon  Dieu,  ce  flot  que  tu  d^chaines, 
Qui  brise  les  rochers,  pulverise  les  ch6nes, 
Respecte  le  f6tu  qu'il  emporte  en  passant ! 

Louis  Frechette. 
(68) 


American  Fall  from  Goat  Island. 
By  Clwrlei  Volkmtr. 
(04) 


li'.mtiili 


"V^mwVfS 


(£in  Befuc^  ber  Hiagara^^^Ue. 


Don  ^riebrtdj  BobenfteM. 


|ad  ubenoaltigcnb  flrofeavtige  9?aturjrf)aufpicl,  bag  bcr  SRiagara  atS  ©renj* 
ftroin  jToif^en  bem  Staate  'Sim  ?)orf  uub  bcm  britifc^en  (Janaba  btetct, 
inbem  er,  bie  SEBafier  bcS  geroaUigcii  GriefeeS  in  ben  Ontariofee  rodljcnb, 
an  fcinem  SluSfluffe  flc^  in  jiuei  ?(rme  t^eilt,  rocldjc  bie  ^n^d  @ranb* 
3§lanb  umfd^Iiegen  unb  bann  roieber  jufammenftromen,  um  bci  roeiterm 
Saufe  ptoljlid^  in  fc^orfer  Slnabiegung  »on  SBBeften  nac^  5Rorben  bie  gto^* 
artigften  aSofferfaUe  ber  SGBelt  gu  bitben,  oerbirgt  fi^  bem  Slicfc  bed 
©uc^enben,  biS  er  bid^t  am  9lanbe  beS  StvomeS  fte^t,  in  beffen  felfigem 
©runbc  e8  fid^  entroUt.  3lber  oitd^  l^ier  roivb  eS  won  jd^immernb  l^od^auf 
fteigenben,  au8  Berfprul^enbem  (S^aum  gebilbeten  SBotfen  oerf^leiert. 
3Kan  fie^t  juerft  nut  bie,  jelbft  bei  trubem  ^Setter,  roie  roir  e8  l^atten,  in  «;•  .l;erbarem  ^ars 
benjpiel  l^erabtofenben  Stromfd^neQen,  roelc^e  burd^  ein-i^oc^  unb  breit  aufragenbed  6-iIanb 
(Goat  Island,  and^  3"^*"?^^  geuannt)  in  groel  J^eilc  jerriffen  roerben  unb  fo  getrennt  in 
eincm  ©turge  »on  etroa  150  5yu§  jroet  Jtatarafte  bilben,  n>ot)on  ber  eine,  taetd^er  innerl^otb  beS 
UnionSgebietea  liegt.  Fort  Shlosher  Fall,  ber  anbere,  ber  l^alb  gu  ^ianaba  geprt,  Horse* 
shoe  Fall  (^ufeifen=i5all)  gcnannt  wirb.  $)iefer  ift  ber  grSjjerc,  bei  einer  ®reite  von  beinol^e 
2000  tvu6.  5)od^  ber  anbere,  obroo^t  nur  1069  guft  breit,  ift  ber  fd^Snerc,  roenn  ^ier 
flber^oupt  oerglid^en  roerben  fann,  too  [id^  fein  gleid^mafiig  iiberftd^tUd^eS  S3ilb  bietet  unb 
}ebcr  in  feiner  Slrt,  bet  na^erer  93etrad^tung,  uberroottigenb  roirlt.  93on  oben  l^erab  gefel^en, 
BetUeren  fie  beibe  an  SBirfung;  benn  in  ganger  @rd^e  geigenifie  fi^  nur,  roenn  mon  in  i§t 
tiefgerounbeneS  getfenbett  l^inabfteigt,  um  fie  mit  aufroSrtS  gerid^tetem  SBlirfe  gu  betrod^ten. 

•     ^Rir  flel,  nad^bcm  roir  ben  SBSagen  pcrlaffen  l^atten,  um  bie  giinftigftcn  ^unfte  ber  33e» 
tra^tmtg  aufgufud^en,  gunad^ft  ber  oben  guerft  genanntc  fd^m&lere  %aU.  in  bie  3lugen,  bii*  und 

6  (65) 


mmM 


riaiMtim 


iBiU 


60 


FROM    CITY   TO   SURF. 


Don  ber  linlcii  i3eitc  entgegenj^immertc,  al8  luir  bie  3d)vitte  nad)  bcv  I)oI)cii  .f^auflcbrucfe 
Icnften,  rocld^e  jiim  conobifc^en  Uffv  I;inuberful)rt  imb  miv  alS  eiii  iiiiinibev  bcv  il^aiifmift 
erj(l)ien. 

3d)  flcftc^e,  baf}  bieje  frei  unb  fu()u  buvd)  bic  Cuft  gcfpaitntc  ©rude,  iibev  lucldjc  ebon  eiii 
langer  33a()njiig  l^inraffelte,  bcfjeu  (2d)n)cre  fie  nic^t  im  gcringftcii  jii  beroegeii  jd)ien,  loaljienb 
fie  boc^  felbft  jo  leid)t  unb  feiii  au^faf),  luie  aui  3)raf)t  gelponiieii,  mir  atS  ''Btxf  von  Weiiid)eii= 
l^anb  beim  er)teii  ?liibUcf  ciiieii  nod)  grofjem  Ginbrud  mac^te,  ol8  bcv  mit  !Doniievget6ie  iii  bie 
Jiefe  ftuvjfiibc  3(rm  bc8  SfJiogarn. 

3eiie  SBvficfe  bot  mciiicm  5liige  in  i^rcr  jicvUdjCK  O^eftaltnng  tvo|j  bev  lucitcn  Spnnnung 
ein  nSttig  ubcvfid)tlid)e8  iMlb,  iu6t)vcnb  bie  gciualtigen  ai'affermafjen,  bie  fic^  wov  mir  fdjiueren 
S)vangc3  iiber  bie  gcl^Jiuanb  l^crabroa^tcu,  nnr  oben  in  cincr  geiDifien  (>5leid)ma^igtcit  fi(^tbar 
itieben,  nad)  unten  fic^  met^r  unb  mctir  (ofenb,  jcrftattcrnb  unb  (2d)aumfiinfcn  jprfi^enb,  bie 
©d^leier  nnb  btiljeube  aDB6lW)en  bilbeten,  unter  roctc^en  bie  Sturjftut  in  roilbcn  UBivbeln  uom 
<Strome  reciter  getragen  rourbc.  ^k  9K5t)cn,  roeld^e  bie  SBaffergebilbe  umflattertcn,  niad)ten 
ben  Ginbrucf,  alS  ob  fie  erft  eben  auS  bem  <B6)0^t  beS  ®prfiI)jdiauniS  inS  i?ebcu  geflogen 
roarcn. 

3e  met)r  id^  mid^  in  bo«  roed^feloolle  ©c^aujpiel  uertiefte,  befto  grSfjer  lourbe  ber  S^x'^cr, 
ben  eS  auf  mic^  iibte,  unb  boa;  inupte  ic^  meiuen  SBegleitern,  ali  fie  mid^  rociter  jogcu,  gcftcljen, 
baf)  id)  nod^  rceit  ©rouereS  erroartet  l^otte,  ali  id)  gefunben,  6ie  begriffen  boS  oollftfinbig; 
root  e3  ifincn  boc^  einft  ebenfo  ergangeu ;  feit  fie  aber  bie  g-ade  l^unbertinal  gefc^cn  unb  tdgtid^ 
fel^en  fonnteu,  roar  i^re  23erounberung  mit  ber  no^ern  SBefanntfc^aft  geroad)jcu. 

SBag  fid)  oor  meinen  $[ugen  aufget^an,  nub  nod)  ba^^u  bci  fc^tec^ter  ©eleuc^tung,  roar  eben 
nur  ein  Jl^eil  oom  @onjen.  Um  baS  ubrige  gu  fcl)cn,  befd)ritten  roir  junad))t  bic  impofante 
^>angebriicfe,  bic,  burd^  'Dra^tfciic  an  beiben  Ufern  gel)attcn  unb  fonft  frei  in  ber  J?uft 
fd^rocbenb,  oon  amerifonifc^em  ©oben  auf  engUfcf)en  fii^vt.  ®ie  beftel^t  nuS  jroci  ©tocf^ 
roerfcn,  rocld^e  ju  gteic^cr  ^ext  Staum  fiir  lange  93al^njuge,  ^"(li'rocrf  alter  3lrt,  Steiter  unb 
§u§gongcr  bieteu. 

il?on  ber  'iUiitte  biefer  93rucfe  auS  gerool^rten  roir  juerft  bie  canabif(^eu  J^oHe,  boc^  in  einer 
©ntfevuung,  roeld^e  fie  ni(^t  grower  erfc^einen  lief},  alS  bie  oor^in  gefc^ilbertcn.  SKiv  fu^ren 
bann  nad)  bem  canabifd)cu  Ufer  l^iniiber,  roeldt)cS,  abgefe^en  uou  cinem  uubebeutenben  ^o^en= 
guge,  in  jicmlic^er  ©utfevnung  oom  9lanbe  ber  9iiogarajd^lud)t  ebenfo  fta^  ift  roie  baS  amcri= 
fouifd^e  unb  oud^  ebenfo  roie  bicfeS  mit  9iiejen()0telS,  8anbl)Sufern  unb  inbianifc^en  93ajar8 
gefd^mucft  ober  Bcrunjiert,  roie  man  eS  ne^meu  mill,  ^ier  befinbet  fid),  nal)e  am  .»*'>ufeifenfall, 
aud^  ein  fogenannted  ^ufei.  a,  unb  in  geringev  6ntfernung  baoon  ift  ber  befte  @tanbpun(t,  um 
bie  Siiagarofatle  al3  ©efammtbilb  ju  feben. 

®ie  ftcil  obfaUenbe  ^icfleninfel  (Goat  Island)  trennt  ben  oor  unS  bonnernben  ^ufeifen= 
fall  (fo  genannt  nad^  ber  l^ufeifeniormigen  gctSroanb,  uber  roelc^e  ev  fturjt)  oon  bem  omerifa= 
nifd^en,  unb  ber  ^Inblid  biefer  unerfd^opflid^en  aBaffcrmaffen,  beren  aSud^t  fic^  in  unferer  Jifibe 
om  md^tigftn  geigt,  l^at  bet  il^rem  blenbenben  ^arbenfpiel,  oon  fc^neeigem  iOiix^  biS  gum 
fmaragbenen  ©riin  unb  tiefbunfeln  Slau,  etroaS  UebenoaitigcnbeS,  rcogu  bag  feierlid^e 
©d^allen,  9flaufc^en,  ipifitfd^crn,  3'f^c"  ""^  ©tiirmen  ber  ©turjflut  ^alb  erl^ebenb,  ^Ib  be= 
taubenb  mitroirft. 

SBir  ftiegen  nad^  bem  @efammtiiberbUdf  oon  oben  fo  tief  l^inab,  atd  roir  f ommen  lonuten, 
um  bie  ^'yaUe  oon  unten  gu  fe^en,  roo  bie  i^eldroanbe,  uber  roelc^e  fie  fid^  ro&tgen,  in  ganger  .^d^e 
erfd^einen,  unb  flommen  bann,  einen  longen  2Beg  mac^eub,  biS  gur  ^6^e  ber  gfiHe  fffbfl 
empor,  roo  man  einen  grofeen  SEl^eit  ber  ]|od^fd)aumenben  ©tromfd^nellen,  au8  weld^en  f}< 
l^erabbonnern,  uberfel^en  tann.— „93om  2ltlantif(^en  gum  (atiUen  Ocean". 


,»)aiiflcbrucfc 

d)e  ebcn  eiii 
'11,  iDat)veiiJ) 
II  '!0iciiid)en= 
getSfe  in  bie 

I  Spaniiiiug 
mil-  jc^iuevcn 
gtcit  flc^tbar 
pvfil)ciib,  bie 
IBivbedi  worn 
ten,  niad)tert 
ben  fleflosen 

ber  ,3fi"^f^f 
leu,  gefteljcu, 

DoHftanbig ; 
n  imb  taglic^ 

iig,  nav  eben 
)ic  impofante 
ill  ber  i?iift 
jroei  (Storf- 
t,  SReitev  imb 

bo^  in  einet 
2Biv  futiren 
enben  ^o^en= 
lie  baS  amevi* 
ifc^en  93ajar8 
i^ufeifenfall, 
anbpunft,  iiin 

ben  .^ufeijeiu 
bem  ainerifa= 
1  unferer  5Jlal)e 
Seife  bi3  jam 
baS  feicrli(j^e 
enb,  ^olb  be= 

nmen  fonnten, 
n  ganjer  ^Hf^t 
er  gSOe  jrfbft . 
Id  weld^en  fl^ . 


Niagara. 


Srflb  war  ber  ^immel,  als  \d)  juerfl  bid;  fo^ 

3n  beiner  mirben  ©rijge,  9?iagora ! 

mt  feme*  3)oitiiern  fc^dig  mir  beiw  ©d^nH  in9  Ol^r, 

aw  mctn  Slid  pc^  tm  ©itc^eii  iiodj)  btr  serlor 

3m  ftaOftn,  uerobeten  aBintergefllbe, 

»crbilflert  tntd)  Ueiexne  SHSoIfeugc'  "be. 

2)od^  nailer  uiib  na^er  ftets  prt'  td>  eS  ft^aHen, 

Ste  weiin  SBafferbergt  an  gelfeit  jerpraaen 

3!m  itnenbUd^en  SWeer,  oom  DrFane  ge^ioben, 

SWit  unfld^tbareit  $anben  gefd()Ieitbfrt  mO)  oteii. 

Sa  ploftl^  er^ebt  fld^  t)ot  mir  ein  ©eflimmer 

»on  »erfprU^enbem  ©(i^oum,  ber  in  tigeiiem  ©c^immet 

au«  ber  lieft  aiiffJeigt,  urb  ein  ffioltengeroimmel 

(grjeugt,  »eit  gfonjenber  al»  ba«  am  ©immcl. 

Unb  id)  folge  bem  Olanj,  unb  jal)ltng8  t^nt 

©id)  ein  abgrunb  auf  tJoH  bemantener  ®lnt, 

ffio  bie  mad;tig  flttrjenben  ©offer  Don  oben 

lief  unten  serflieben  mit  bonnernbem  loben. 

2)a  wflljit  ti  unb  banmt  fle^  unb  wirbelt  nub  gSrt 

3tt  toermirreuber  SBut^,  bod^i  liebjit^  Derttart 

®urd?  »erf(^reiernb  Oemfii!  and  berfprU^enbem  ©d^aum, 

3)o»  ft*  fd^immernb  er^ebt,  Uiil)t  fc^webenb  bie  ^loum. 

Sinn,  al8  trflg'  er  bem  ©tanje  oer  Jiefe  9ieib, 
Serreigt  aud^  ber  ^immef  fein  ffloIfenHeib 
Unb  bie  @onue  giegt  il>re  gonje  (Btut 
$inab  in  bie  tofeube  SBafferflut, 
Um  in  fla(I;tigen  iBilbern  nod^  @d>onte«  )u  |eigen, 
af«  an  ewigem  ©lanae  i^r  felber  su  eigen. 
®ie  ©tnrjflMten  Irinfen  ben  fonnigen  ®Ian}  * 

(67) 


^M 


«iil 


68 


FROM   CITY   TO   SURF. 


Unb  flral|(en  i^n  toitUt,  gcfSttigt  gait) 

Unb  wie  llttnfKer  tnit  gottDerliel^utn  (9emalttii 

9nl  {i(^  f((bf)  bte  erl^abcnflen  Silber  gcfialtcn, 

@o  fdytint  null  in  bf4  {Rlagara  Sorben 

9tbe  88(ttt,  iebtr  Xropfen  )um  Aaufi(er  geroorbtn, 

Uiib  ®df'intxt9  lommt  burc^  fie  an  btu  Xag, 

VU  mtnfd^Iid^r*  @(^affeu  )u  bilbrn  bftntag. 

2)ie  SSBogen  g(fll)(ii  Don  ®d;bitl)eit  tninfen, 

^m  btn  ®(^aumtiouen  fpringeu  bliljenbe  Suiiten, 

(Se  Idt^ttt  in  aUen  Sormen  unb  ^arbcu: 

$ter  er^cbtu  fii^  ft^immernbt  <3tral;(tngaTben, 

ISovt,  ttbtv  bie  3ridtnfc(  gejogeu, 

<g>(^rocbt  l)o4  etu  bUT(^fi(^tiger  Wegcnbogtn, 

Unb  barunter  bit  ^el^roaub  flcntmt  auf  btu  99egtn 

St«  gtnaltigtn  <Stroni<  fic^  i^m  breit  tntgtgtu, 

Sag  bit  SSaffer  get^tift  baS  (SKanb  umwinbtn, 

9i0  tie  unttn  ftd;  witbtr  ;ufammtnflnttu  — 

9tac^  tieftm  (Sprung  bon  gttrtnnttm  J^ang  — 

3n  bonneriibtm  Siiumpl^gtfang. 

9tit  tTfi^itn  mir  tin  @tvonibiIb  an  SQuiiberu  fo  tei4>, 
@o  fittimifc^  im  XBtd^fel,  bo^  immtr  {i^  gleid^ 
3n  btaaubtrnbtr  SOtad^t  urgtmaltigtn  @tin9 
Unb  ^t^Ttr  ®ebt(bt  bt«  @(^aae«  unb  ®(i^tin«. 

Irflb  war  btr  ^irrmel,  al9  i(^  juerfl  liif  fol> 

3u  beinci  miibtn  ®T5gt,  9iiagaia, 

Unb  bie  @onttt  roar  fd)on  im  Unttrgt^n 

%li  iO)  fam,  bi(^  gum  (c<}ten  SVIale  gu  ft^n. 

Unb  bu  biegefl  inid>  felbfl  tief  ^inunterfleigen, 

Urn  bi(4  niir  in  boUer  ®roge  gn  geigen 

3m  tiefen,  gerounbeuen  ^elfenbette. 

2)id>  umragt  teiut  fdyimmernbe  eergt<tettt, 

2)tine  Ufer  ftnb  flatl)  unb  obe  gang, 

2)o(^  bu  braud^fl  feiiie«  prangenben  9ta^men«  ®Iang: 

Seine  eigeue  (Slut,  bciner  SBtlltn  Jllang 

SBirb  mir  (tuc^ten  unb  Iliugen  mein  Seben  (ang. 

5riebri<^  Sobenftebt. 


-^T^S^^-.ii.^i'^WtaWBlwef^Wi*! 


1 — - 


THE  CANTILEVER   BRIDGE, 

AND   HOW   IT   WAS   BUILT. 


,^r  would  seem  peculiarly  fitting  that  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  in  full 
view  of  the  grandest  natural  object  of  the  globe,  should  be  erected  one  of 
the  greatest  triumphs  of  engineering  science,  and  most  remarkable  man- 
ifestations of  the  skill  and  power  of  man.  The  construction  of  the  Suspen- 
sion Bridge  in  1855,  by  John  A.  Roebling,  established  the  reputation  of  that 
great  engineer ;  but  so  far  had  advanced  the  science  of  mechanical  engineer- 
ing that  when,  in  1883,  a  new  bridge  was  to  be  built  across  the  chasm  for  the 
Michigan  Central  Railroad,  an  altogether  new  and  untried  principle  was  brought  into  use. 
The  result  is  a  structure  of  unusual  beauty  and  remarkable  strength  and  safety,  which,  in 
a  greater  degree,  perhaps,  than  almost  any  other  work  of  the  century,  has  attracted  the 
attention  of  the  scientific  world,  and  brough*.  interested  witnesses  to  the  spot  from  all 
quarters  of  the  world.  The  unprecedented  rapidity  of  its  construction,  and  the  marvelous 
accuracy  and  perfection  of  the  work  in  all  its  details,  are  not  its  least  interesting  features. 
The  location  of  the  bridge,  a  short  distance  below  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  precluding  the 
possibility  of  any  supports  in  the  centre  of  the  stream,  which  at  this  point  is  five  hundred 
feet  from  shore  to  shore  at  the  water's  edge,  and  the  construction  of  a  suspension  bridge 
being  unadvisable  on  account  of  the  very  great  expense  and  time  involved,  and  also  the 
inevitable  wave-motion  of  that  class  of  structures  when  loads  are  moved  over  them, 
necessitated  a  peculiar  manner  of  construction,  and  a  stvle  different  from  that  of  any 
bridge  already  constructed. 

(69) 


■^.ArrTr?y5Ki^*7!ri?»CBr'i;gBRl'EW«R^^ 


;*r^*  3i?-;"s's.'2r*^-o:KSii;Vj.-.v-«rv " " 


•  rr "iTirifcfT  i'\t  immiy  * i" -""ai  ^ 


v-jt  yta>  '-.■itjrf*»i'.ieifei-* 


70 


FROM   CITY  TO   SURF. 


.m^i's. 


,•?,•  5«pBp^ 


^■^.^■■«  ^ 


^^V,C7 


The  design  is  what  is  known  as  the  cantilever  bridge,  the  principle  of  which  is  that  of 

a  trussed  beam,  supported  at  or  near  its  centre,  with  the  arms  extending  each  way,  and 

one  end  anchored  or  counterweighted 

to  provide  for  unequal  loading.     It 

was   in   practice   entirely   novel,   no 

other  bridge  having  then  been  com- 
pleted upon  this  principle. 

Each  end  is  made  up  of  a  section 

entirely  of  steel,  extending  from  the 

shore  nearly  half  way  over  the  chasm. 

Each  section   is  supported  near    its 

centre  by  a  strong  steel  tower,  from 

which   extend  two   lever  arms,    one 

reaching  the  rocky  bluffs,  the  other 

extending    over  the   river    175    feet 

beyond  the  towers.     The  outer  arm 

having  no  support,  and  being  subject 

like  the  other  to  the  weight  of  trains,  Buiwingtha  Pftnofih*  c«niii««r. 

a  counter  advantage    is    given    by   the   shore  arm  being  firmly   anchored  to  the    rocks 

on  the    shore.       The    towers    on    either   side    rise    from    the   water's    edge;     between 

them  a  clear  span  of  495  feet  over  the  river,  the  longest  double-track  truss-span  in  the 

world.  The  ends  of  the  cantilevers 
reaching  on  each  side  395  feet  from 
the  abutments,  leave  a  gap  of  1 20 
feet  filled  by  an  ordinary  truss 
bridge  hung  from  the  ends  of  the 
cantilevers.  Here  provision  is  made 
for  expansion  and  contraction  by 
an  ingenious  arrangement  between 
the  ends  of  the  truss  bridge  and  of 
the  cantilevers,  allowing  the  ends 
to  move  freely  as  the  temperature 
changes,  but  at  the  same  time  pre- 
serving perfect  rigidity  against  side 
pressure  from  the  wind.  There  are 
no  guys  for  this  purpose,  as  in  a 
suspension  bridge;  but  the  structure 
Conrtructing  Show  Arm  of  th«  c.ntii.ytr.  jj.  complete  within  itsclf.     The  total 

length  of  the  bridge  is  910  feet.  It  has  a  double  track,  and  is  strong-  enough  to  carry 
upon  each  track  at  the  same  time  the  heaviest  freight  train,  extending  the  entire  length 
of  the  bridge,  headed  by  two  "  consolidation  "  engines,  and  under  a  side  pressure  of 
thirty  pounds  per  square  foot,  produced  by  a  wind  having  a  velocity  of  seventy-five 


*i.*i  iil'iinni    II 


THE   CANTII,EVKR    IJRIIKIK. 


71 


is   tliat  of 
way,  and 


the    rocks 
;     between 
pan  in  the 
cantilevers 
5  feet  from 
{ap  of   1 20 
nary    truss 
nds  of  the 
on  is  made 
iraction  by 
nt  between 
[Ige  and  of 
T  the  ends 
jmperature 
e  time  pre- 
gainst  side 
There  are 
se,  as  in  a 
e  structure 
The  total 
h  to  carry 
tire  length 
jressure  of 
eventy-five 


■  ■"■.'■  re 

Mi, 

it''  - 

/■^''.,i»^>'';-*- 

'  ,v 

i 

Im'T'^''^'^ 

11       m     J 

■  ^  ^^ .  kl**! 

iR 

:x9mKijnfBm 

miles  per  hour,  and  even  then  will  ho  strained  to  only  one-fifth  of  its  ultimate  strength. 
The  foundations  rest  on  the  solid  rock  ;  four  blocks  of  most  substantial  masonry 
are  carried  up  fifty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  from  these  the  steel  towers 
supporting  the  cantilevers  rise  130  feet.  The  load  of  1,600  tons  that  comes  upon  each 
pair  of  steel  columns  is  so  distributed  that  the  pressure  upon  the  foundation  rocks  is  only 
25  pounds  per  square  inch.  From  the  tower  foundations  up,  the  whole  bridge  is  steel, 
every  inch  of  which  was  subjected  to  the  most  rigid  tests  from  the  time  it  left  the  ore  to 
the  time  it  entered  the  structure. 

•  The  structure  has  very  much  the  appearance  of  an  ordinary  truss  bridge,  but,  in  view 
of  the  conditions  and  surroundings,  very  different  in  the  manner  of  its  erection.  The 
towers  on  the  water's  edge  and  the  shore  arms  of  the  cantilevers  have,  of  course,  been 
erected   with   the  help  of  temporary  scaffoldings  and  a  resting  point  on  terra  firma,  and 

the  superstructure  was  easily 
put  in  place  from  the  shore  to 
the  steel  towers.  Hut  after  this 
came  the  difTicult  portion  of  the 
work,  /.  <•.,  to  span  the  495  feet 
across  and  239  feet  above  a 
roaring  river  whose  force  no 
earthly  power  can  stay.  No 
temporary  structure  could  sur- 
vive a  moment,  and  here  the 
skill  of  the  engineer  came  in  to 
control  the  powers  of  nature. 
The  design  of  the  cantilever  is 
such  that,  after  the  shore  arm 
was  completed  and  anchored, 
the  river  arm  was  built  out,  one 
panel  or  section  at  a  time,  by 
Conrtnjcting  th«  Rivtr  Arm  of  «h«  c«ntii«v«r.  mcausof   great  traveling   der- 

ricks, and  self-sustaining  as  it  progressed.  After  one  panel  of  twenty-five  feet  was 
built  and  had  its  bracing  adjusted,  the  derrick  was  moved  forward  and  another  panel 
erected.  Thus  the  work  progressed,  section  by  section,  until  the  ends  of  the  cantilevers 
were  reached,  when  a  truss  bridge  was  swung  across  the  gap  of  120  feet,  resting  on 
the  ends  of  the  cantilever  arms,  thus  forming  the  connecting  link. 

The  contract  with  the  Central  Bridge  Company  of  Buffalo  was  signed  April 
II,  1883,  and  the  plans  were  approved  by  Mr.  C.  C.  Schneider,  Chief  Engineer,  on 
the  3d  of  May.  Work  was  at  once  begun,  and  in  less  than  seven  months,  December 
I,  1883,  the  bridge  was  completed.  It  was  rigorously  tested  on  the  20th  of  Decem- 
ber, and,  under  the  tremendous  weight  of  eighteen  locomotives  and  twenty-four  heavily 
loaded  gravel  cars,  showed  a  temporary  deflection  of  but  six  inches,  proving  to  be 
a  grand  and  perfect  success. 


'KlMWM 


t^m^aeti^l^  3u«»ii:£:^  -tjtiS^Ta 


ammmmmmtmmmmumm* 


S^M 


Niagara  Falls  in  Winter,  from  Prospect  Park.     From  Photograph  by  George  Barker. 

(72) 


NIAGARA  IN  WINTER. 


.OMPARATIVELY  few  persons  are  aware  of  the  scenes  of  surpassing 
beauty  presented  by  the  cataract  of  Niagara  in  winter.  Its  appearance 
is  then  even  more  attractive  and  glorious  than  in  the  summer. 

The  trees  are  covered  with  the  most  brilliant  and  sparkling  corusca- 
tions of  snow  and  ice  ;  the  islands,  the  shrubs,  the  giant  rocks,  are 
robed  in  the  same  spotless  vesture.  Frozen  spray,  glittering  and  gleam- 
ing as  brightly  and  vivaciously  as  frozen  sunlight,  encases  all  things. 
Niagara  Falls  is  the  absolute  domain  of  the  Ice  King.  In  bright  sun- 
shine, the  flashing  rays  from  millions  of  gems  produce  a  bewitching  effect. 
"At  such  a  moment,  the  characteristic  attributes  of  Niagara  seem  fused  and 
heightened  into  'something  more  exquisite  still.'  Its  intrinsic  sublimity  and  beauty 
experience  a  liberal  transfiguration.  Nature  is  visibly  idealized.  Nothing  more  brilliant 
or  enchanting  can  be  conceived.  The  brightest  tales  of  magic  '  pale  their  ineffectual 
fires '  !  Islands  who.se  flowers  are  thickset  diamonds,  and  forests  whose  branches  are 
glittering  with  brilliants,  and  amethysts,  and  pearls,  seem  no  longer  a  luxurious  figment 
of  genius,  but  a  living  and  beaming  reality.     One  feels,  in  the  midst  of  such  blazing 

(TO) 


IM»M»MI—— I— — Mi— — — »«— ■«— — — —  II  I  I  ^—^ ^—»i «— — ■■II  I  I       nil  III!  I      II 


74 


FROM   CITY   TO   SURF. 


Iclolat  and  SttiigmiUt  under  American  Fall. 


Stream  being  closed  below,  "and 
form  a  natural  bridge  across  it. 
As  they  accumulate,  they  get  pro- 
gressively piled  up,  like  a  Cyclo- 
pean wall,  built  of  huge  blocks  of 
ice  instead  of  stone.  TIms  singu- 
lar masonry  of  nature  gets  ce- 
mented by  the  spray,  which,  rising 
in  clouds  of  mist  as  usual  from 
the  foot  of  the  Falls,  attaches 
itself  in  its  upward  progress  to 
the  icy  wall,  and  soon  gets  frozen 
with  the  rest  of  the  mass,  helping 
to  fill  up  the  interstices  between 
the  larger  blocks  of  which  this 
architecture  is  composed." 

This  icy  wall  or  mound  rises 
up  from  the  base  of  the  torrent  in 
a  bulwark  of  pyramidal  form,  in 
front  of  the  Falls,  within  a  few 
feet  of  the  edge  of  the  precipice, 
to  a  height  sometimes  of   from 


coruscations,  and  such  glorious  bursts  of  ra- 
diance, as  if  the  magician's  ring  had  been 
slipped  upon  his  finger  unawares,  and,  rubbed 
unwittingly,  had  summoned  the  gorgeous 
scene  before  him.  It  is  as  if  Mammoth 
Cave,  with  its  groves  of  stalactites,  and  crys- 
tal bowers,  and  (lothic  avenues  and  hills, 
and  star  chambers,  and  flashing  grott(/es, 
were  suddenly  uncapped  to  the  wintry  sun, 
and  bathed  in  his  thrilling  beams  ;  or,  as  if 
the  fabled  palace  of  Neptune  had  risen  ab- 
ruptly from  the  deep,  and  were  flinging  its 
splendors  in  the  eye  of  heaven." 

Upon  the  occurrence  of  a  thaw  sufficient 
to  break  up  the  ice  in  Lake  Erie,  masses  of 
floating  ice,  dissevered  from  the  frozen  lake 
and  stream  above,  are  precipitated  over  the 
Falls  in  blocks  of  several  tons  each.  These 
remain  at  the  foot  of  the  cataract,  from  the 


Winter  Foliag*  on  Goat  (eland. 


NIAGARA   IN   WINTER. 


75 


rsts  of  ra- 

had   been 

nd, rubbed 

gorgeous 

Mammoth 

I,  and  crys- 

and   hills, 

J   grott(<es, 

vintry  sun, 

s ;  or,  as  if 

i  risen  ab- 

flinging  its 


w  sufficient 
;,  masses  of 
frozen  lake 
;d  over  the 
Lch,  These 
;t,  from  the 


iff-/' 


-*k 


twenty  to  forty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  upper  stream.  Scaling  the  mound  is  an  exhila- 
rating and  laborious  exercise ;  but  the  near  sight  of  the  maddened  waters  plunging  into 
the  depths  of  an  unfathomable  vortex  below,  is  a  fitting  reward  for  the  adventurous 
undertaking. 

The  ice-bridge  generally  extends  from  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall  to  a  point  near  the  railway 
bridge,  lasts  generally  from  two  to  three  months,  and  is  crossed  by  hundreds  of  foot  pas- 
sengers during  the  winter.  The  ice  forming  the  bridge  is  ordinarily  from  one  hundred  to 
one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  thick,  ris- 
ing from  fifty  to 
sixty  feet  above  the 
natural  surface  of 
the  river.  The  tinge 
of  the  waters,  from 
the  dark  green  of 
summer,  is  changed 
to  a  muddy  yellow; 
huge  icicles,  formed 
by  an  accumulation 
of  frozen  spray, 
hang  perpendicu- 
larly from  the 
rocks  ;  the  trees  on 
Goat  Island  and 
Prospect  Park  seem 
partially  buried  ;  a 
mass  of  quaint  and 
curious  crystalline 
forms  stands  in  lieu 
of  the  bushes  ;  the 
buildings  seem  to 
sink  under  ponder- 
ous coverings  of 
snow  and  ice  ,  the 
tops  of   trees  and 

points  of  rock  on  which  the  dazzling  white  frost  work  does  not  lie,  stand  out  in  bold 
contrast,  forming  the  deep  shadows  of  the  entrancing  picture  ;  the  whole  presents  a  wild, 
savage  aspect,  grand  and  imposing. 

The  Buffalo  Courier,  in  a  graphic  description  of  the  great  ice-bridge  of  1888,  says: 
"  Here  and  there  on  the  icy  structure,  far  from  the  direct  line  of  travel  between  the  two 
countries,  may  be  seen  an  explorer,  who  as  he  plods  ahead  has  In  mind  an  arctic  expe- 
dition:    But  to  fully  realize  the  extent  of  what  has  been  the  subject  of  your  observation 


CouMng  down  the  Ice  Mountain,  Winter  of  1867. 


NIAGARA    IN    WINTER. 


77 


I. 

1^  0 


U  i 


I)- 


from  the  cliff,  you  must  go  below,  and  then  it  is  that  the  mightmess  of  the  jam  that  lies 
between  you  and  the  other  shore  davns  upon  you.  Now  you  more  fully  realize  the  mount- 
ainous, rugged  character  of  the  bridge,  for  those  who  left  your  side  but  a  moment  ago  to 
cross  are  hiil  from  view  by  an  icy  hillock.  You  start  to  cross  also,  and  carefully  follow 
the  i)ath  until  you  come  to  a  crevice  fully  thirty  feet  deep,  and  yo.ir  thoughts  revert  to  the 
proportion  of  ice  that  floats  above  water  to  that  below.  Allowing  considerable  for  the 
quantity  of  air  throughout  a  mass  piled  as  this  is,  let  it  be  supposed  that  only  a  third  is 
above  water  ;  it  will  leave  sixty  feet  under  water  and  make  the  bridge  ninety  feet  thick. 
As  you  walk  along  it  is  no  hard  matter  to  imagine  yourself  in  Switzerland,  the  home  of 
glaciers  and  of  avalanches." 

"  I  have  seen  the  Falls  in  all  weathers  and  in  all  seasons,"  says  Bayard  Taylor  ;  "  but  to 
my  mind  the  winter  view  is  most  beautiful.  I  saw  them  first  during  the  hard  winter  of 
1854,  when  a  hundred  cataracts  of  ice  hung  from  the  cliffs  on  either  side,  when  the  masses 
of  ice  brought  down  from  Lake  Erie  were  together  at  the  foot,  uniting  the  shores  with  a 
rugged  bridge,  and  when  every  twig  of  every  tree  and  bush  on  Goat  Island  was  overlaid 
an  inch  deep  with  a  coating  of  sojid  crystal.  The  air  was  still,  and  the  sun  shcne  in  a 
cloudless  sky.  The  green  of  the  fall,  set  in  a  landscape  of  sparkling  silver,  was  infinitely 
more  brilliant  than  in  summer,  when  it  is  balanced  by  the  trees,  and  the  rainbows  were 
almost  too  glorious  for  the  eye  to  bear.  I  was  not  impressed  by  the  sublimity  of  the  scene, 
nor  even  by  its  terror,  but  solely  by  the  fascination  of  its  wonderful  beauty, — a  fascination 
which  continually  tempted  me  to  plunge  into  that  sea  of  fused  emerald,  and  lose  myself  m 
the  dance  of  the  rainbows.  With  each  succeeding  visit,  Niagara  has  grown  in  height,  in 
power,  in  majesty,  in  solemnity;  but  I  have  seen  its  climax  of  beauty." 

M.  Albert  Tissandier,  in  his  recent  work.  Six  Mot's  Aux  Etats-  Unis,  thus  describes  the 
winter  aspect  of  Niagara: 

"  Si,  r^t6,  les  chutes  du  Niagara  et  ses  abords  offrent  au  touriste  un  aspect  qu'on  ne 
peut  oublier,  I'hiver,  leur  spectacle  est  peutStre  plus  Strange,  plus  grandiose  encore. 

"  La  Cave  of  the  Winds,  c6t6  amdricain,  est  devenue  inaccessible  A  cause  de  ramoncelle- 
ment  des  neiges  ;  nous  ne  pouvions  done  y  aller,  mes  amis  et  moi.  Les  rochers  sur 
lesquels  je  pouvais  passer  au  mois  d'aoflt  6taient  couverts,  en  mars,  1886,  d'une  couche 
^paisse  de  glace  produite  par  la  congelation  des  vapeurs  des  cataractes.  Elles  s'amoncel- 
lent  peu  ii  peu,  semblables  A  d'immenses  stalagmites  s'^levant  \  pr^s  de  40  metres  de 
hauteur.  La  neige  recouvre  les  rochers  ;  les  arbres  accabl^s  sous  son  poids  sont  plids  de 
mille  mani^res  et  leur  menues  branches  sont  garnies  de  minces  stalactites  de  glace. 

•'  La  masse  des  eaux  sViCoule  cependant,  brisant  tout  dans  sa  chute,  entrainant  de 
vferitables  icebergs  provenant  du  lac  6rie. 

"  Sur  les  rives  canadiennes,  pr6s  du  fer  h  cheval,  on  peut  descendre  en  touts  saison  au 
pied  des  cataractes.  Les  grottes  que  Ton  parcourt  et  qui  pendant  IV^t^  sont  remplies  des 
brillantes  vapeurs  de  I'eau,  se  transforment  pendant  I'hiver  en  incomparables  merveilles. 
II  faut  se  vetir  comme  dans  la  belle  saison  des  m»  :-ne  vetements  de  toile  huil^e. 

"  Notre  guide  nous  fait  descendre  par  un  pe'i'  ^scalier  de  bois  une  quarantaine  de 
metres  environ.     Nous  voici  bientfit  sous  les  re  :hers,  les  pieds  dans  la  neige  ^paisse  et  la 


78 


FROM   CITY   TO   SURF. 


t6te  arros^e  par  les  nombreuses  gouttes  glac«5es  des  eaux  du  Niagara.  Ces  petits  incon- 
v(5nients  ne  sauraient  compter,  car  la  grandeur  merveilleuse  du  tableau  qu'il  vous  est  donnd 
de  contempler  est  telle  qu'on  dprouve  une  6motion  sans  pareille.  De  gigantesques 
stalactites  glacues,  de  50  metres  de  hauteur  environ,  toutes  brillantes  au  soleil,  semblent 


pretes  iV  vous  ^eraser  par  leur  masse  formidable.  Les  cnu  es  d'eau  6tincelantes  aux 
couleurs  d'^meraude  qui  se  precipitant  du  fer  h  cheval  accompagn^es  des  vapeurs  d'eau 
s'^levant  dans  le  ciel,  la  neige  6blouissante  des  premiers  plans,  forment  des  scenes  si  extraor- 
dinaires  qu'elles  d^passent  v6ritablement  ce  que  I'homme  peut  rever  et  pendant  les 
quelques  instants  de  contemplation  notre  imagination  en  restait  presque  comme  troubl6e." 


etits  incon- 
5  est  donn6 
gantesques 
1,  semblent 


Fall. 


intes  aux 
;urs  d'eau 
i  extraor- 
ndant  les 
troubl^e." 


THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


At  Niagara  Falls  and  Suspension  Bridge,  the  Michigan  Central  connects  with  the 
Rome,  ^Vatertown  &  Ogdensburg  Railroad  for  the  Thousand  Islands,  Alexandria  Bay  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Most  through  travelers  prefer  taking  the  night  train,  which 
connects  with  the  Michigan  Central  Atlantic  Express  from  Chicago,  not  only  on  account 
of  the  greater  speed,  but  because  Niagara  Falls  are  seen  by  the  morning  light,  and  the 


most  uninteresting  part  of  the  journey  is  made  by  night  Through  sleepers  are  run  on 
this  fast  Steamboat  Express,  landing  passengers  early  in  the  morning  (but  not  too  early 
for  a  good  night's  rest)  at  Clayton,  on  the  dock  of  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation 
Company,  and  enabling  them,  without  loss  of  time,  to  make  the  trip  through  the  Thousand 
Isliiids,  and  down  the  Rapic's  by  daylight,  and  reach  Montreal  before  dark. 

Those  who  have  leisure  to  tarry  a  little  en  route,  and  explore  this  fascinating  regicn, 
will  either  stop  over  at  Clayton  or  make  their  headquarters  at  Alexi  '1  '  .  Bay  or  at  Thou- 
sand Island  Park,  on  \¥ellesley  Island,  the  largest  of  the  group.  ;  ^.>  excellent  hotels 
will  be  found  at  all  these  points,  and  all  afford  unlimited  opportuniti-     .or  boating,  sailing, 

(TO) 


mmi. 


80 


FROM   CITY   TO   SURF. 


tVvl 


Entrane*  ta  th*  Lake  of  th»  Thouiv^d  litandi. 


fishing  or  other  forms  of  pleas- 
uring. A  delightful  trip  may 
be  had  by  taking  the  Island 
Wandertr,  which  plies  on  an 
intricate  route  between  Alex- 
andria Bay,  Thousand  Island 
Park,  Round  Island  Park,Gan- 
anoque  and  Westminster  Park, 
through  tortuous  channels  and 
amidst  the  islands  of  innumer- 
able shapes,  sizes  and  char- 
acter ;  but  to  hire  a  boat  and 
wander  at  one's  own  sweet 
will  through  the  mazes  of  this 
marvelous  archipelago  results 
in  the  highest  and  most  unal- 
loyed enjoyment.  According 
to  the  Treaty  of  Ghent,  there  are  r.,692  of  these  islands,  but  really  more  than  1,800  are 
counted,  many  of  them  but  a  few  feet  of  granite  rock,  or  with  but  a  single  tree  laving  its 
branches  in  the  cool  waters,  but  others  of  a  thousand  acres  in  area.     Some  are  bare  as 

the  hand,  some  verdant  and  grass- 
grown,  others  thickly  umbrageous 
with  forest  trees ;  and  shelving 
beaches  of  sand  or  shingle  alternate 
with  precipitous  cliffs  rising  sheer 
from  the  channel.  Several  of  these 
islands  —  Pullman's,  Little  Angel, 
Comfort,  Cherry  and  Wau-Winet — 
are  owned  in  Chicago,  and  very 
many  are  adorned  by  buildings  in 
every  style,  from  the  modest  sum- 
mer cottage  to  the  magnificent  villa 
and  imposing  caravansary,  and 
numerous  summer-resort,  fishing  and 
canoe  associations  and  clubs  have 
their  headquarters  here.  Game  is 
sufficiently  abundant  at  no  great 
distance,  and  the  cold  green  waters 
fairly  swarm  with  the  gamy  mus- 
kallonge,  the  bass,  the  salmon  trout 
and  other  members  of  the  finny 
Tho««nd  i.i.nd.,  near  Ai.x.ndri.  B.y.  "Jbc.     "  During  the  summcr  season. 


THE   ST.    LAWRENCE    RIVER. 


81 


f^i 


JUL. 

1  1, 800  are 
le  laving  its 
are  bare  as 
and   grass- 
umbrageous 
1     shelving 
le  alternate 
ising  sheer 
al  of  these 
tie     Angel, 
lU-Winet — 
and    very 
|uildings  in 
•dest    sum- 
lificent  villa 
iary,      and 
shing  and 
lubs   have 
Game   is 
no    great 
:en  waters 
|amy    nius- 
Imon  trout 
the    finny 
ler  season. 


I 


the  islands  fairly  teem  with  life,  and  the  reticulated  channel  of  the  river  is  flecked 
with  the  little  sailing  yachts  and  pleasure  boats  which  ply  among  the  islands  like  gondolas 
amid  the  palaces  of  water-bound  Venice.  Nor  does  the  .scene  close  with  the  wane  of  day; 
as  the  setting  sun  gilds  the  nestling  isles  with  his  parting  ray,  and  the  evening  shades 
draw  on  apace,  the  glow  of  lights  from  one  island  is  soon  followed  by  the  friendly  response 
from  another,  then  another,  until  the  illuminated  spectacle  rivals  even  Venice  herself  in 
the  splendors  of  a  carnival  dres»." 

Leaving  Alexandria  Bay,  which  is  but  twelve  miles  below  Clayton,  on  one  of  the  fine 
steamers  of  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Company,  the  tourist  enjoys  a  view  of 
most  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  which,  commencing  near  Clayton,  end  with  the  Three 
Sisters,  near  Brockville  and  Morristown.  Although  the  islands  below  Alexandria  Bay 
are  not  so  attractive  as  those  above,  the  scenery  generally  is  of  a  wild  and  interesting 
nature. 

Brockville  (thirty-six  miles),  the  termmus  of  a  branch  of  the  Canadian  Pacific,  is  a  sub- 
stantial town  of  7,000  inhabitants,  with  numerous  fine  private  properties  along  the  rugged 
river  front,  and  is  the  prettiest  city 
between  Montreal  and  Toronto.  Im- 
mediately opposite  is  Morristown,  on 
the  line  of  the  Utica  &  Black  River 
road.  Ogdensburg  (forty-eight  miles), 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie,  is  the 
largest  and  most  affluent  town  in 
Northern  New  York,  and  is  the  junc- 
tion point  of  the  Rome,  Watertown  & 
Ogdensburg,  the  Utica  &  Black  River, 
and  Ogdensburg  &  Lake  Champlain 
Railroads,  and  has  a  population  of  £1 
nearly  ten  thousand,  largely  engaged 
in  manufacturing  and  internal  commerce.  It  has  pleasant  vistas  through  its  beautiful 
maples,  and  an  interesting  history.  T  he  commingling  of  the  deep  brown  waters  of  the 
Oswegatchie  with  the  clear  green  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  a  curious  sight.  Opposite  is  the 
solid-looking  little  town  of  Prescott,  terminus  of  a  branch  line  of  the  Canadian  Pacific 
running  to  Ottawa,  the  Dominion  Capital.  Holow  are  the  first  of  a  .series  of  rapids,  Les 
Gailopes  and  the  Rapide  de  Plat,  not  particularly  exciting,  but  serving  as  preludes  to  the 
greater  ones  to  come. 

Leaving  Dickinson's  Landing,  the  steamer  turns  out  into  the  swift  current,  and  a  mile 
ahead  may  be  seen  the  white  stormy  waters  of  the  Long  Sault  stretching  from  shore  to 
shore.  There  is  a  sudden  cessation  of  the  e«^ine's  pulsations,  and  we  feel  the  strength  of 
the  current.  Extra  men  are  at  the  wheel,  and  others  aft  at  a  spare  tiller.  We  plunge 
over  a  cascade  at  "the  cellar,"  and  the  spirits,  even  of  the  nervous,  rise.  We  enter  the 
vast  expanse  of  broken  waters,  and,  glancing  at  the  shore,  note  the  great  rapidity  of  our 
passage.     In  front  is  a  vast  billow,  seemingly  motionless  as  a  wall,  of  the  berutiful  deep 


III*  Royal,  Thounnd  lilandt. 


M 


FROM    CITY    TO   SURF. 


n  ^i 


emerald  hue  we  noted  in  the  centre  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall  at  Niagara,  and  we  hold  our 
breath  as  the  gallant  steamer  cleaves  its  way,  only  to  meet  a  second,  a  third,  a  fourth 
beyond  it.  There  are  several  miles  of  swift  water  yet  to  come;  but  the  passage  of  the 
raging  billows  of  the  rapids  is  over  in  three  minutes. 

Eleven  miles  below  Dickinson's  we  pass  Cornwall,  the  terminus  of  the  ship  canal 
around  the  rapids,  and  four  miles  farther,  on  the  right  bank,  we  see  the  Indian  village  of 
St.  Regis,  bisected  by  the  international  boundary  line,  and  take  our  leave  of  the  United 
States.  Dinner  is  announced  as  the  steamer  emerges  on  the  broad  Lake  St.  Francis, 
twenty-five  miles  in  length.  On  leaving  it  we  dash  down  the  Coteau  Rapids,  two  miles 
long,  the  Cedars,  three  miles,  the  Split  Rock,  most  formidable  of  all  these,  and  the  Cas- 
cades. The  waters  and  ourselves  take  breath  again  for  the  final  plunge  as  we  cross  the 
twelve  miles  of  Lake  St.  Louis,  into  which  are  poured  the  muddy  waters  of  the  Ottawa,  at 


Tht  Ladiin*  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawranot. 

the  head  of  the  island  of  Montreal.  From  Lachine  we  see  the  bold  outline  of  Mount 
Royal  against  the  sky  and  the  snowy  breastwork  of  the  Lachine  Rapids  across  our  path. 
Opposite  the  Iroquois  village  of  Caughnawaga  the  paddles  cease  to  revolve,  and,  as  we 
drift  steadily  down,  the  famous  Indian  pilot,  Baptiste,  climbs  on  board  from  his  bateau 
and  takes  command  at  the  wheel,  as  he  has  done  for  forty  summers.  The  current  grows 
swifter  and  swifter.  Down  the  steep  declivity  of  foam,  with  rocks  and  reefs  and  sunken 
ledges  in  front  and  on  either  hand,  we  plunge  with  an  arrow's  speed.  This  side  and  that 
the  steamer  swerves  and  sweeps,  escaping  destruction  time  and  again  by  a  hair's  breadth. 
At  last,  as  we  glide  under  the  great  Victoria  Tubular  Bridge,  above  the  city,  we  release  the 
tension  of  nerves  and  muscles,  and  marvel  at  the  skill  and  courage  that  has  guided  us 
safely  through  the  perils  of  the  descent.  The  danger,  however,  is  much  more  apparent 
than  real ;  for  the  sturdy  pilots  have  made  these  rapids  the  study  of  their  lives,  and  no 
accidents  have  ever  happened. 


THK   Sr.    LAWRENCE    RIVER. 


83 


:  hold  our 
,  a  fourth 
ige  of  the 

ship  canal 
1  village  of 
he  United 
it.  Francis, 
,  two  miles 
d  the  Cas- 
e  cross  the 
Ottawa,  at      j 


of  Mount 
ss  our  path, 
and,  as  we 
his  bateau 
irrent  grows 
and  sunken 
ide  and  that 
ir's  breadth, 
release  the 
guided  us 
)re  apparent 
ives,  and  no 


Montreal,  the  metropolis  of  the  Dominion,  has  a  population  of  nearly  150,000,  and  a 
foreign  commerce  of  seventy  millions  annually.  No  Canadian  city  is  better  known  to 
Ameiicans,  and  many  of  our  readers  will  need  no  description  of  this  picturesque  town  of 
gray  limestone,  with  tall  spires  and  glittering  roofs  and  domes  backed  by  Mont  R<''al  ;  its 
miles  of  solid  limestone  quays  and  docks  and  wharfs  lined  with  shipping  ;  its  large  and 
magnificent  cathedrals  and  churches  ;  its  spacious  market  and  court-house  and  city  hall  ; 
McGill  College  and  its  unrivaled  museum,  in  which,  under  the  tutorship  of  Sir  William 
Logan,  Trollope  thought  that  even  he  might  become  a  geologist;  and  the  great  bridges 
-over  the  St.  Lawrence.  All  these,  and  the  beautiful  drive  through  Mount  Royal  Park  and 
around  the  mountain,  are  familiar  to  all  readers  by  innumerable  pictures  and  descriptions. 
After  one  or  more  nights  in  Montreal,  the  tourist  may  again  take  one  of  the  daily 
steamers  of  this  line  180  miles  farther  down  the  river  to  the  quaint  old  city  of  Quebec. 
Varennes,  fifteen  miles  below  Montreal,  has  valuable  mineral  spiings;  but  the  first  landing 
4nade  by  the  through  steamer  is  at  Sorel  (forty-five  miles),  a  small  place  at  the  mouth  of 

the  Richelieu,  with  good  fishing  in  the  vicinity, 
and  in  the  autumn  excellent  snipe  shooting.  Five 
miles  below  the  river  expands  into  Lake  St.  Peter, 
twent)-five  miles  long  and  nine  miles  wide, 
shallow,  with  crooked  and  narrow  channel,  and 
noted  for  its  storms.  Half  way  to  Quebec  is 
Three  Rivers,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice, 
with  a  population  of  nine  or  ten  thousand  and  an 
important  lumber  market.  Twenty-six  miles 
distant  by  stage  are  the  famous  St.  Leon  Springs, 
and  thirty  miles  up  the  St.  Maurice  are  the  Falls  of  the  Sha- 
wanegan,  with  a  sheer  descent  of  150  feet,  and  second  in  mag- 
nitude only  to  Niagara.  Nothing  more  of  interest  is  seen  until 
Quebec  comes  in  sight,  rising  majestically  from  the  river. 
This,  the  oldest,  quaintest  and  most  picturesque  of  Canadian  cities,  is  almost  as  well 
known  as  Montreal.  The  old  city  is  a  walled  triaigular  tow.  chre<;  miles  in  circumference 
.and  with  five  gateways,  three  communicating  with  the  lower  town, — the  St.  Louis  gate,  a 
l)eautiful  Norman  structure  leading  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  St.  John's,  opening  to 
Beauport  and  St.  Roche.  The  leading  attractions  are  the  (J rsuline  Convent,  the  great 
Laval  University,  the  Basilica,  and,  above  all,  the  superb  outlook  from  the  Dufferin 
Terrace.  The  drives  about  the  city  are  very  interesting,  particularly  to  the  Indian  village 
•of  Lorette,  and  down  the  beautiful  Beauport  road  to  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  250  feet 
high.  The  Chaudiere  Falls,  and  the  Falls  of  Ste.  Anne,  are  also  very  wild  and  beautiful. 
Passing  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  below  Quebec,  the  St.  Lawrence  attains  and  keeps  a  width 
of  about  twenty  miles,  with  eighteen-feet  tides,  and  the  scene  is  often  enlivened  by  seals 
and  porpoises  playing  in  the  clear  salt  water.  Touching  at  Murray  Bay,  Rividre  du  Loup 
and  Cacouna,  the  Newport  of  Canada,  the  steamer  crosses  the  river  to  Tadousac,  134  miles 
from  Quebec,  and  passes  up  the  vast  wild  cailon  through   which   the   Saguena}    pours 


Montretl  from  th«  Mountain. 


84 


FROM   CnV    lO   SURF. 


its  black  waters.  Lofty  peaks  and  palih.ulea  tover  on  either  side  ail  the  thirty-four 
miles  to  I'rinity  Bay.  which  is  guarded  by  the  majestic  Capes  Trinity  and  Eternity, 
rising  grandly  two  thousand  feet  above  the  dark  waters  six  hundred  fathoms  deep.  Of  this 
impressive  scen- 
ery, Bayard  Tay- 
lor said,  "  I  doubt 
whether  a  sublimer 
picture  of  the  wil- 
derness is  to  be 
found  on  this  con- 
tinent," and  How- 
ells  wrote,  in  A 
Chance  Acquaint- 
ance, "  The  rock 
[Cape  Eternity] 
fully  justifies  its 
attributive  height 
to  the  eye,  which 
follows  the  upward  ^••'"  '^"""i'  '"'*  ^*""'*>'- 

rush  of  the  mighty  acclivity,  steep  after  steep,  till  it  wins  the  cloud-capt  summit,  when 
the  measureless  mass  seems  to  swing  and  sway  overhead,  and  the  nerves  tremble  with  the 
same  terror  that  besets  him  who  looks  downward  from  the  verge  of  a  lofty  precipice.  It 
is  wholly  grim  and  stern  ;  no  touch  of  beauty  relieves  the  austere  majesty  of  that  presence. 
Cape   Trinity  is  yet  loftier  than  its  sister  cliff ;   but  it  slopes  gently  backward  from  the 

stream,  and 
from  foot  to 
crest  it  is 
heavily  cloth- 
ed with  a 
forest  of  pines. 
The  summit 
is  crowned 
with  the  mass 
of  their  dark 
green  plumes, 
dense  and  soft 

Trinity  Gov,,  S.gu.«y  Riv.,.  ^^^  beaUtiful  ; 

so  that  the  spirit,  perturbed  by  the  spectacle  of  the  other  cliff,  is  calmed  and  assuaged 
by  the  serene  grandeur  of  this." 

Statue  Point  and  Les  Tableaux  are  next  passed,  and  then  Ha-Ha  Bay  is  reached,  with 
Chicoutimi  above  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation.  Here  is  a  good  hotel,  a  cathedral  and 
convent,  and  a  new  stone  college,  and  the  Chicoutimi  River,  swarming  with  fish,  plunges 
over  a  fall  of  fifty  feet  before  entering  the  Saguenay. 


thirty-four 
d  Eternity, 
ep.     Of  this 


immit,  when 
ible  with  the 
irecipice.  It 
hat  presence, 
ird  from  the 
ream,  and 
•om  foot  to 
rest  it  is 
eavily  cloth- 
d  with  a 
arest  of  pines, 
'he  summit 
I  crowned 
'ith  the  mass 
f  their  dark 
reen  plumes, 
ense  and  soft 
nd  beautiful ; 
md  assuaged 

reached,  with 

:athedral  and 

fish,  plunges 


THE  ADIRONDACKS. 


"It  is  the  glory  of  the  Adirondack  Mountains,"  says  Wallace  Bruce,  "that  no  traveler 
has  been  able  to  liken  them  to  any  other  part  of  the  earth's  surface,  but  that  they  stand 
alone  in  their  peculiar  type  of  sublimity  and  beauty;"  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Murray  says  that 
an  American  artist,  traveling  in  Europe,  wrote  home,  that,  having  traveled  all  over  Switzer- 
land, and  the  Rhine  and 


Rhone  regions,  he  had 
not  met  with  scenery 
which,  "judged  from  a 
purely  artistic  point  of 
view,  combined  so  many 
beauties  in  connection 
with  such  grandeur  as  the 
lakes,  mountains  and  for- 
ests of  the  Adirondack 
region  presented  to  the 
gazer's  eye. " 

This  great  wilderness 
of  mountain  and  valley, 
lake  and  forest,  within  a 
few  hours'  ride  of  the 
mo.st  populous  Eastern 
cities,  was,  within  a  few 
years,  very  difficult  of 
access,  and  but  little  ex- 


In  the  Adirondacki. 


(85) 


irnM^iUJM.liWlWIa 


t,>g»t?jli/ia^*Mim 


86 


FROM    CITY   TO   SURF 


^ 


plored.  New  York  has  recently  made  it  •  State  Reservation  or  Parle,  and  appointed  a* 
its  Buperiiitendcnt  a  gentleman  who  has  i,i  de  its  exploration,  survey  and  protection  the 
chief  employment  of  his  life.  Lines  of  rail  surround  it,  sending  out  here  and  there  little 
branches  to  pierce  its  fastnesses,  while  the  echoes  of  its  solitudes  are  awakened  by  the 

rumble    of   the 
great    old-fash- 
ioned        stage 
coaches    on   its 
mountain  roads. 
The    mountains 
rise  fro!"   i  pla- 
teau some  ^. ,  <o 
feet  above   ilie 
sea-level,       ex- 
tending for  150 
miles     between 
I  .»kes     George 
and  Champlain, 
and  tiie  St.  Law- 
rence       I'v !  V  er. 
The        Cliii.on 
range     is     the 
most      westerly 
and    the    most 
elevated,  begin- 
ning  at    Little 
Falls,  and  termi- 
nating at  Trem- 
bleau  Point,  on 
Lake        Cham- 
plain,  and  con- 
taining the  lofty 
peaks  of  Taha- 
wus  (5, 33 7  feet), 
Seward,   Mcln- 
tyre,  McMartin, 

Skbnen  Fill* 

Whiteface,   Dix 

Peak,  Golden  and  Santanoni.  There  are  more  than  500  mountains  in  the  Adirondack  region, 
wild  and  savage,  and  covered  with  primitive  forests,  save  the  highest  peaks,  whose  rocky 
summits  rise  above  the  tree  line,  and  are  covered  only  by  mosses,  grasses  and  dwarf  Alpine 
plants.  In  the  valleys  between  lie  more  than  a  thousand  lakes  and  ponds,  "all  lovely  and 
romantic  in  everything  except  their  names,  and  the  scenery  they  offer,  in  combination  with. 


appointed  as, 
rotectidii  the 
d  there  little 
;ened  by  the 
nble  of  the 
at  iild-fash- 
ed  sta^e 
ches  on  its 
untaiii  roads. 
c  mountains 
1  froi"  I  ,ila- 
u  some  j.G'io 
t  above  the 
■level,  cx- 
ding  for  150 
es  between 
:e8     George 

Champlain, 
the  St.  Law- 
ce       Pv'ver. 
!        CIin:on 
Se     is     the 
It     westerly 
the    most 
ated,  begin- 
i   at    Little 
s,  and  termi- 
ng at  Trem- 
u  Point,  on 
e        Cham- 
1,  and  con- 
ing the  lofty 
C8  of  Taha- 
(5.337  feet), 
ard,    Mcln- 
I  McMartin, 
teface,   Dix 
lack  region, 
irhose  rocky 
warf  Alpine 

lovely  and 
nation  with. 


'^^'*^'^^Sl|i^'^:'S^'^  '  ':'-.'^'i"l;^  m.Ji?  :!.i.iit-'^J.:Uyt!l<.'*l-..llV.0)%*;h 


h 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


If  1^  IIM 

I  Ui  1112° 


1.25 


1.8 


1.4    11.6 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


J5L 


THE    ADIRONDACKS. 


87 


m 


the  towering  mountains,  and  the  old  and  savage  forest,  is  not  surpassed  on  earth,"  resem- 
bling in  its  natural  features  that  of  Switzerland  and  the  Scottish  Highlands  before  those 
regions  were  settled  and  cultivated.  This  labyrinth  of  lakes  is  connected  by  an  intricate 
system  of  rivers,  rivulets  and  brooks,  enabling  the  canoeist,  by  more  or  less  frequent  "  car- 
ries," to  traverse  the  whole  region.  Deer  and  other  game  are  abundant,  and  salmon  trout 
and  brook  trout  swarm  in  the  waters. 

Among  the  known  curiosities  of  nature,  which  abound  in  the  Adirondack  region, 
Robert  Carter  mentions,  in  Picturesque  America,  "Lake  Paradox,  whose  outlet  in  high 
water  flows  back  on  the  lake;  the  pond  on  the  summit  of  Mount  Joseph,  whose  ^^ 

rim  is  close  upon  the  edge;  the  mingling  of  the  fountains  of  the  Hudson 
and  Au  Sable,  in  freshets,  in  the  Indian  Pass;  the  torrent-dashes 
or  lace-work,  from  the  greater  or  lesser  rain,  down  the  grooved 
side  of  Mount  Colden  toward  Lake  Avalanche;  the  three  lakes 
on  the  top  of  Wallface,  ocnding  streams  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
by  Cold  River  and  the  Racket,  into  Lake  Champlain  by  the 
Au  Sable,  and  the.  Atlantic  by  the  Hudson;  the  enormous 
rocks  of  the  Indian  Pass,  standing  upon  sharp  edges  on 
steep  slopes,  and  looking  as  if  the  deer,  breaking  off 
against   them   his   yearly  antlers,  would  topple 
them  headlong,  yet  de- 
fying unmoved  the 
mighty    agen- 
cies of    frost, 
and      plumed 
with  towering 
trees;  with  all 
the    cavern     in 

tricacy  between  and  un-         -'^^ 
derneath    the  fallen   masses, 

where  the  ice  gleams  unmelted  sugar  Riv«r  Faiit,  neai  Boonviiia. 

throughout  the  year;  the  same  rock  intricacy  in  the  Panther  Gorge  of  Mount  Marcy  or 
Tahawus;  and  the  deep  canon  of  the  Au  Sable,  in  Wilmington  Notch  under  Whiteface 
Mountain,"  so  graphically  described  by  the  poet  Street,  in  his  Woods  and  Waters. 

The  Adirondacks  may  be  entered  from  the  lake  region  of  the  west,  the  St.  Regis 
region  on  the  north,  the  upper  Hudson  on  the  south,  and  the  Champlain  coast  on  the  east. 
The  first  is  accessible  from  numerous  points  on  the  line  of  the  Rome,  Watertown  & 
Ogdensburg  Railroad  from  Utica  to  Watertown,  and  the  second  by  the  White  Mountain 
train  of  the  same  line  from  Niagara  Falls  and  Suspension  Bridge,  from  which  the  traveler 
will  disembark  at  Moira,  whence  the  Northern  Adirondack  Railroad  will  take  him  to  Paul 
Smith's,  the  most  famous  hostelry  of  the  wilderness.  From  this  point  he  will  readily  reach 
the  headwaters  and  lakes  of  the  Saranac,  St.  Regis  and  Raquette.  From  Chateaugay,  beyond 
Moira,  stages  run  to  the  Lower  and  Upper  Chateaugay  Lakes  on  the  road  to  the  Saranac, 


ii 


88 


FROM   CITY    I'O   SURF. 


while  but  a  mile  and  a  half  below  the  sUlion  is  the  Chateaugay  Chasm,  whos^e  wild  gorges 
towering  cliffs  and  snowy  cascades  rival  those  of  Watkins  Glen  and  the  Au  Sable  ;  and  at 

Rouse's  Point  connection  is  made  with 
the   Delaware  iV   Hudson,  which 
■  ,^«r       follows  the  western  shore  of 
S         Lake  Champlain  to  T.ake 
George  and  Saratoga. 
The    chief    route, 
however,  by  which  the 
most    beautiful    and 
picturesque     points 
may       be        easily 
reached,   is  that  of 
the      Delaware     & 
Hudson  Canal  Com- 
pany's railroad  from 
Schenectady  or  Al- 
bany,  via   Saratoga 
and  Lake  (ieorge. 

Fifteen  miles  from 
Schenectady,        we 
come     to     Ballston 
Spa,     which,     with 
its    valuable    saline 
springs,  was  widely 
renowned  as  a  sum- 
mer     resort     until 
overshadowed  by  its 
near  neighbor.    It  is 
now     a     handsome 
manufacturing  town 
of  4,000  inhabitants. 
In  five  minutes  more 
we   reach    Saratoga 
Springs,     the    most 
popular    and     fash- 
ionable    resort     on 
the  continent.     The 
village,  which  is  ex- 
ceedingly  bea«.,ful,  has  a  resident  population  of  twelve  thousand,  and  a  summer  popu- 
"ton  oL  of  live  times  that  number.    It  claims,  with  a  rood  deal  of  )"«-■  "  ""J 
more  attractions  than  any  other  watering-place  in  the  world.    It  ,s  charmmgly  located. 


Sc«nM  on  -th*  0.  &  H."  from  Albany  to  Montr.»l. 


d  gorges, 
;  and  at 
lade  with 
on,  which 
I  shore  of 
1  to  Lalce 
aratoga. 
ef    route, 
which  the 
itiful    and 
le     points 
;        easily 
is   that  of 
laware     & 
"anal  Com- 
ilroad  from 
idy  or  Al- 
i  Saratoga 
;  (ieorge. 
I  miles  from 
ady,        we 
D     Ballston 
lich,     with 
ible    saline 
was  widely 
d  as  a  sum- 
;sort     until 
lowed  by  its 
rhboT.    It  is 
handsome 
luring  town 
inhabitants, 
linutes  more 
;h    Saratoga 
the    most 
and     fash- 
resort     on 
tinent.     The 
which  is  ex- 
mmer  popu- 
itice,  to  offer 
ngly  located, 


surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery,  witii  l)lue  ranges  of  distant  mountains  on  cither  side. 
I'here  are  twenty-eight  springs  in  the  village,  no  two  precisely  alike;  the  hotels  are  colossal 
and  magnificent,  the  boarding  houses  numerous  and  e.vcelient,  and  the  facilities  for  amuse- 
ment illimitable.  The  walks  and  drives  are  full  of  interest,  that  to  the  beautiful  Saratoga 
Lake,  four  miles  distant,  over  a  fine  macadamized  road  divided  in  the  centre  by  a  row  of 
shade  trees,  being  the  most  noted. 

A  narrow-gauge  railroad  ten  miles  long  runs  to  the  summit  of  Mount  McGregor, 
which  affords  extended  views  of  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  and  the  battle  fields  of 
Bemis  Heights  and  Saratoga.  The  main  line  of  "the  D.  &  H."  runs  south  to  Albany, 
and  the  .Vdirondack  Railroad  follows  the  upper  Hudson  to  North  Creek,  fifty-seven 
miles  from  Saratoga,  whence  stages  run  thirty  miles  further  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake.  The 
little  steamers  will  take  the  tourist  through  Blue  Mountain,  Raquette  and  Forked  Lakes, 
whence  he  may  return  either  by  the  same  route  or  by  the  semi-weekly  stage.  At  Hadley, 
passengers  leave  the  train  for  Lake  Luzerne,  a  favorite  summer  resort  just  across  the 
Hudson  ;  and  at  Riverside  trains  are  met  by  stages  for  the  lovely  Schroon  Lake,  seven 
miles  distant.  From  North  Creek  stages  also  run  to  Tahawus,  Newcomb  and  Long  Lake, 
in  the  very  heart  of  the  Adirondack  mountain  system. 

Seventeen  miles  northeast  of  Syratoga '*  the  D.  \'  H."  crosses  the  Hudson  at  Fort 
Edward,  a  thriving  and  handsome  town,  whence  a  branch  diverges,  via  Glens  Falls,  to 
Caldwell,  on  Lake  George.  One  may  descend  this  loveliest  of  lakes,  threading  the  wind- 
ing channel  among  its  numerous  islands  to  Baldwin,  the  terminus  of  another  branch,  which 
joins  the  main  line  at  Fort  Ticonderoga  on  I^ake  Champlain. 

Twenty-eight  miles  beyond  is  Westport,  the  chief  gateway  of  the  Adirondacks,  for 
from  this  point  stages  run  through  the  mountain  valleys  to  Elizabethtown,  a  delightful 
summer  resort  amid  singularly  picturesque  and  impressive  scenery,  and  a  centre  from 
which  several  important  stage  routes  diverge;  Keene  Valley,  Lake  Placid  and  Saranac 
Lake,— the  latter  forty-three  miles  from  the  railroad.  Instead  of  returning  by  the  same 
route,  the  tourist  will  do  well  to  make  the  circuit  by  Whiteface  Mountain  and  Au  Sable 
Forks  to  Au  Sable  Station,  where  the  branch  railroad  may  be  taken  around  by  Plattsburg 
to  Port  Kent.  From  this  point  it  is  but  a  few  miles  to  Au  Sable  Chasm,  whose  graceful 
falls  and  rocky  walls  afford  some  of  the  wildest  and  most  impressive  scenes  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  If  the  wilderness  be  entered  from  the  north  the  route  will,  of  course, 
be  reversed,  and  the  exit  made  at  Westport.  Adirondack  Lodge,  at  the  northern  entrance 
of  the  famous  Indian  Pass,  is  but  a  few  miles  from  Lake  Placid,  while  Lake  Henderson, 
at  the  southern  entrance,  is  reached  by  stage  from  North  Creek.  From  Plattsburg  the 
Chateauguay  Railroad  runs  to  Chazy  Lake,  Lyon  Mountain,  Loon  Lake  and  Saranac 
Lake,  seventy-three  miles  west,  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  plateau.  Connection  is  made 
with  the  Lake  Champlain  steamers  at  Port  Kent  and  Plattsburg,  and  with  the  Central 
Vermont  and  Ogdensburg  &  Lake  Champlain  Railroads  at  Rouse's  Point,  fifty  miles  from 
the  terminus  of  "the  D.  &  H."  at  Montreal. 


Boston  from  the  Bay. 


FROM  ALBANY  TO  BOSTON. 

HE  Boston  S:  Albany  .njoy,  .he  distinction  of  being  the  oniy  "'"^^"^ 
'     ,„„,e  between  Boston  and  the  Hudson,  and  of  the  possession         u.e  - 
road.bed  and  equipment.     Bu,  ,.  is  also  the  most  beant.ful  '0«=  '" J^'" 
England,  outside  of  the  White  Mountain  region.     As  the  .ran,  chntb   th^ 
,     Jen  hills  east  of  the  Hudson,  after  crossing  the  long  .ton  b,  dge  f  om 
I  Albany  and  before  entering  the  defiles  beyond,  the  traveler  »-  ""  -"'=j 
"    before  bin,  a  panorama  of  surprising  extent  and  I"-"--      '  *";  ^'°  ^ 
valley  of  .he  Hudson  for  more  than  fifty  miles  ,.  spread  °«  "'fore  h  m 
•  ,  -      Uke   a   map,  the  noble  river  gleaming    in   the  sunlight,   Decked  w  th    ts 
numerous-sailing  and  stea^  craft,  and  sometimes  --  -J^  ^^  ^^:^ 
bordered  by  velvety  meadows  and  bright  towns  and  ct.es.     To  *="■"* 
Troys  furnaces  and  foundries  hovers   about    Mo««  Wa  '^e;      "^    rAdlondacks. 
Mount  MacGregor,  sacred  now  in  our  history,  agatnst  *'  ='"'  ^''J  °' 
Directly  in  fron,  Albany  rises  grandly  from  .he  waters,  w,  h  «-";*;'■>=;;  ^^^J^, 
of  which  any  State  can  boast  crowning  her  Cap.tohan  H,l       ^  e  deep  azu^e 
the   Helderbergs  are  relieved  by  the  paler  hue  of  the  western  sky.     And  fa.  do 
lerThe  magnificent  heights  of    the    Catskills  stand  ou.  with   photographtc    sh  rpness 
rclelesf,  bu.  wi.b  such  beau.y  of  color  as  no  pho.ographer  can  ever  dep.c.     It 
is  a  scene  that  will  live  longer  in  the  memory  than  many  of  wider  note. 
VILVout  beyond  the  bills  of  the  Hudson,  .he  route  traverses  a  rich  agricultural 

^ntL^rr  or  irrCeSLd  the  Hudson  -b  "f  ^      ^  ^^^^^ 
Leaving  this  sterile  but  picturesque  region,  the  State  hue  is  crossed,  old  G'^v'"*  ;°»" 
^rhl  and  the  region  of  the  Berkshire  bills  is  entered.     From  this  point  to  the  Connecticut 

(90) 


J!^ 


FROM    AI.HANY   TO    BOSTON. 


91 


^^'r- 


\f^ 


I. 


juble-track 
of  superior 
te  in   New 
1  climbs  the 
)ridge  from 
as  unrolled 
The   broad 
before  him 
ed  with  its 
een  islands, 
smoke  of 
ler  off  rises 
^dirondacks. 
of  buildings 
masses  of 
ar  down  the 
sharpness 
depict.     It 

agricultural 
:s  the  Tagh- 
nction  of  the 
ton  &  Albany, 
lock  comes  in 
e  Connecticut 


River  every  mile  of  the  way  is  of  enchanting  loveliness  or  of  remarkable  grandeur.  Less 
elevated  than  many  other  portions  of  the  great  Appalachian  system,  it  lacks  none  of  the 
elements  of  beauty  and  picturesqueness.  Right  in  the  centre  of  this  magnificent  region  is 
Pittsfield  (fifty-one  miles),  a  beautiful  city  of  15,000  inhabitants.  It  has  a  costly  and 
handsome  station,  numerous  fine  buildings,  an  interesting  history  of  a  century  and  a 
half,  and  many  poetic  and  literary  associations.  Here  is  the  old  Appleton  mansion,  in 
which  stood  The  Old  Clock  on  the  Stairs,  of  Longfellow.  Here  Lord  Coleridge  declared 
that  "England  has  nothing  more  pleasingly  picturesque  than  Berkshire."  Here  in  the 
city  park,  called  the  Heart  of  Berkshire,  a  noble  soldiers'  monument,  surmounted  by  a  fine 
Color  Bearer,  by  Launt  Thompson,  testifies  to  the  heroism  and  patriotic  devotion  of  her 
sons.  Here  was  the  home  of  Thomas  Allen,  whose  life  of  rare  usefulness  and  practical 
benevolence  was  of  more  than  local  beneficence.  E.\tensive  manufactures,  chiefly  of 
textile  fabrics,  give  employment  to  thousands,  beautiful  villas  abound  on  the  suburban 
streets,  and  the  lofty  Taconic  and  Hoosac  Hills  environ  the  city.     A  couple  of  miles  distant 

are  Lakes  Onota  and  Pontoosuc,  and  the  hills  and  mountains 
.'"are   full  of  romantic    points.      The  Housatonic  Railroad  runs 

■'   .southward  through  "wonderfully  picturesque  and  sometimes 

'  splendidly  gloomy  scenery."       Northward    runs   a 

branch  of  the  Boston  &  Albany  Railroad  to 
^North  Adams,  in  the  Hoosac  Valley,  famous 
for  its  sheep,  its  cheese,  its  manufactures 
and  its  glorious  scenery.  Near  by  is  the 
marble  arch  of  its  Natural  Bridge,  and 
towering  above  the  valley  is  the  majestic  Grey- 
lock,  the  highest  mountain  in  Massachusetts, 
and  commanding  a  view  "  immense  and  of  amazing  grandeur." 
Leaving  Pittsfield,  the  rocky  defiles  of  the  Hoosac  Mountains 
are  piereed  and  the  scenes  of  the  passage  of  the  Berkshires  repeated.  The  Alpine 
character  of  the  landscape  is  frequently  very  striking.  "  In  approaching  the  summit 
level  you  travel  bridges  built  a  hundred  feet  above  mountain  streams,  tearing  along 
their  deep-worn  beds;  and  at  the  '  deep  cut '  your  passage  is  hewn  through  solid  rocks, 
whose  mighty  walls  frown  over  you."  Running  down  the  deep  descent  for  thirteen  miles 
to  Chester,  we  follow  the  winding  course  of  the  Pontoosuc,  ever  fretting  in  its  rocky  bed, 
cramped  between  the  track  and  the  precipitous  granite  hillsides,  leaping  down  the  preci- 
pices, laughing  in  the  dimpled  sunshine,  and  hiding  behind  knotty  copses  of  evergreen. 
On,  down  the  narrow  valleys  of  the  Westfield  River,  the  mighty  mountain  masses  seem 
to  constantly  crowd  upon  the  vision,  and  the  wooded  heights  and  bare  granite  peaks 
contract  the  sky  above;  and,  when  the  view  broadens  out  at  the  lower  level,  there  are  "on 
every  side  rich  valleys  and  smiling  hillsides,  and,  deep  set  in  their  hollows,  lovely  lakes 
sparkle  like  gems."  Westfield  (ninety-three  miles)  is  a  busy  village,  making  two  and  a 
half  million  whips  and  ten  or  twelve  million  cigars  annually.  It  has  a  fine  soldiers' 
monument  and  the   State   Normal  School.     We  pass  Pochassic   Hill  and  Mount  Tekoa 


<.t2 


TKOM    CI  ^^'     lO    SURK 


on  the  left,  and  meet  the  broad  meadows  of  the  Connecticut,  basking  in  their  rich  iiiherit- 
an<:c  of  alluvial  soil  and  unimpeded  sunshine.  Th'j  river  crossed  on  a  long  bridge,  and 
we  enter 

Springfield  (103  miles),  a  handsome  city  of  over  35,000  inhabitants,  with  extensive 
manufactures  of  arms,  cars,  paper,  metallic  goods,  etc,  employing  more  than  eight  millions 
of  capital  and  seven  thousand  hands.  Unity,  Christ  and  Memorial  Churches,  tlie  (!ity 
Library,  with  fii'ty  thousand  volumes,  and  the  granite  Coi'rt  House,  are  all  unusually  fine 
buildings.  On  a  park  of  seventy-two  acres  stands  tht  great  quadrangle  of  the  United 
States  Armory,  where  nearly  800,000  stand  of  arms  were  .nade  during  the  war  of  the 
rebellion.     In  serried  ranks  are  to  be  seen  175,000,  symmetrically  arranged. 

"This  is  the  Arsenal.     From  fli>or  to  ceiling, 
Like  a  huge  organ,  rise  the  burnished  arms  ; 
But  from  their  silent  pipes  no  anthem  pealing 
Startles  the  villages  with  strange  alarms." 

Passing  through  Wilbraham, 
the  seat  of  the  great  Wesleyan 
Academy  and  famous  for  its 
beautiful  scenery;  Palmer, 
where  th&  Ware  River  and 
New  London  Railroad  di- 
verge; and  Urookfield,  a  large, 
well-to-do,  charming  village, — 
we  reach  Worcester  (157 
miles),  the  second  city  in  the 
commonwealth  in  wealth  and 
population,  halting  in  the 
Union    Railroad    Station,   an 

Boirton  tc  Albiny  R.  R.  Stitlon,  Kneeltnd  Stittt.  Boston.  imposing  granite    building  5  1 4 

by  256  feet,  with  a  graceful  stone  clock  tower  200  feet  high.  Worcester  boasts  many 
noble  edifices,  and  in  her  soldiers'  monument,  designed  by  Randolph  Rogers,  has  one  of  the 
finest  monumental  structures  in  the  country.  But  her  chief  claim  is  to  the  title  of  an 
academic  city,  and  her  greatest  pride  is  in  her  numerous  fine  schools  and  higher 
educational  institutions,  prominent  among  which  are  the  State  Normal  School  and  the 
Free  Institute  of  Industrial  Science,  admirably  conducted  and  richly  endowed.  It  is 
aJso  an  important  railroad  centre,  the  Boston,  Barre  &  Gardner,  the  New  York  &  New 
England,  the  Providence  &  Worcester,  the  Worcester,  Nashua  &  Rochester  and  the 
Worcester  &  Shrewsbury  all  meeting  the  Boston  &  Albany  here.  Dummy  cars  and 
omnibuses  run  out  to  the  beautiful  and  popular  resorts  at  Lake  Quinsigamond,  past  which 
we  go  in  continuing  our  route  to  Boston. 

South  Framingham,  the  Chautauqua  of  New  England,  is  the  junction  of  the  Lowell 
Division,  upon  which  is  Sudbury,  the  location  of  Longfellow's  IVayside  Inn.  We  pass 
through  the  wealthy  suburban  city  of  Newton,  and  thence  the  route  is  lined  with  numer- 


wniMiiHiiiiik>-    ^m 


I'ROM    A  I, HAN  V     TO    MOSTON. 


08 


li  iiiherit- 
klge,  and 

extensive 

It  millions 
t'.ie  C:ity 
sually  fine 
le  United 
rdt  of  the 


IVilbraham, 
it  Wesleyan 
ous  for  its 
';     Palmer, 

River  and 
ailroad  di- 
eld,  a  large, 
ig  village, — 
:ester     (157 

city  in  the 

wealth  and 
ig     in     the 

Station,   an 
building  514 
boasts  many 
as  one  of  the 
e  title  of  an 
and  higher 
hool  and  the 
owed.      It  is 
York  &  New 
jster  and  the 
my  cars  and 
id,  past  which 


ous  pretty  suburban  villages.  Brighton,  the  great  cattle  market,  is  passed,  tl\e  Charles 
River  is  approached  on  the  left,  the  spires  of  Cambridge  and  the  populous  heights  of 
Charlestown  are  seen,  and  a  fine  view  is  had  of  tlie  compart  and  more  ancient  parts  of 
Boston,  before  running  into  the  elegant  depot  of  the  line  on  Kneeland  Street,  but 
a  little  distance  from  the  cit>'s  best  hotels.  "This  approach,"  .says  Bayard  Ta,  .or,  "is 
almost  the  only  picturesipie  city  view  we  have  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  broad  reaches 
of  water  ;  the  cheerful  suburbs  on  either  hand  ;  the  long,  gently  rising  brick  hill  in  front, 
crowned  with  the  yellow  dome  of  the  State  House,  when  seen  in  the  tempered  evening 
light,  under  a  cloudless  sky,  form  an  imposing  and  truly  attractive  picture.  New  York, 
from  the  bay,  suggests  commercial  activity  only  ;  Philadelphia,  from  the  Delaware,  is  the 
tamest  of  cities  ;  but  Boston,  from  any  side,  owing  to  her  elevation,  has  a  stately  charm 
which  her  prouder  sisters  do  not  possess." 

The  salt  .sea  air  is  grateful  to  the  traveler's  nostrils,  and,  after  he  has  wandered  over 
Boston  Common,  under  the  classic  shades  of  Cambridge,  and  through  the  i)eautiful  and 
altogether  charming  suburbs  of  the  city,  bathed  in  the  surf  at  some  of  the  delightful 
seaside  resorts  near  at  hand,  and  steeped  himself  in  the  historic  and  literary  associations 
that  everywhere  surround  him,  from  the  Old  South  Church  and  Faneuil  Hall  to  Concord 
Bridge  and  Lexington  C.reen,  he  is  ready  for  the  White  Mountains,  the  lovely  lakes  of 
New  Hampshire  and  Maine,  shadowed  by  green  hills  and  lofty  mountains  and  swarming 
with  finny  prey.  The  beautiful  city  and  harbor  of  Portland,  Bar  Harbor  and  Mount 
Desert— grandest  and  most  delightful  of  all  the  numerous  resorts  on  the  rock-bound 
coast  of  Maine — may  be  conveniently  and  speedily  reached  by  the  lu.xurious  vestibuled 
limited  trains  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  or  by  the  International  or  other  coasting 
steamers  which  ply  to  the  ports  of  Maine  and  the  maritime  provinces. 


of  the  Lowell 
nn.  We  pass 
d  with  numer- 


THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


■mi 


[he  principal  entrance  to  the  Wiiite  Mountain  region  of  New  Hamp- 
shire is  by  the  Boston  &  Lowell  Railroad  from  Boston  via  Concord, 
or  by  the  Boston  &  Maine  via  Portsmouth  and  Conway.  The 
main  line  of  the  Boston  &  Lowell  from  Boston  passes  through 
the  great  manufacturing  city  of  Lowell,  and  thence  follows  the 
course  of  the  beautiful  Merrimac,  through  Nashua,  Manchester 
and  Hookset,  affording,  at  every  turn,  varied  views  of  the  pic- 
turesque landscape.  From  Concord,  the  charming  capital  of  the 
State,  and  an  important  railroad  centre,  the  country  becomes  wilder  and 
more  mountainous.  At  Laconia,  the  Belknap  range  is  seen  upon  the 
right,  and  a  glimpse  of  Mount  Washington  is  caught  in  skirting  the  shore  of  Round  Bay. 
Passing  Lake  Village,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Winnipesaukee  is  crossed,  and  for  four  or  five 
miles  the  road  follows  Long  Bay,  across  which  fine  glimpses  are  had  of  the  Ossipee  Range, 
with  Mt.  Chocorua  on  its  northern  slope.  Just  beyond,  109  miles  from  Boston,  we  stop 
at  the  Weirs,  the  landing  place  of  the  steamer  Lady  of  the  Lake,  which  meets  all  express 
trains  at  this  station,  and  plies  to  Centre  Harbor,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  Wolfboro',  on 
the  eastern  side.  This  charming  tour  of  the  lake  should  in  no  wise  be  omitted,  even  if 
the  tourist  does  not  visit  the  sequestered  loveliness  of  Squam  Lake,  or  climb  the  heights 
of  Red  Hill  and  Ossipee  Mountain  for  the  magnificent  views  that  will  well  reward  his  efforts. 
The  crystal  waters  of  Winnipesaukee,  "  the  Smile  of  the  Great  Spirit,"  reflect  the  shadows 
of  several  bold  mountains,  and  surround  nearly  three  hundred  islands  of  various  sizes.  The 
poetry  of  Percival  and  of  Whittier  have  been  often  inspired  by  this  romantic  region,  and 
Everett  declared,  after  his  extended  tour  in  Europe,  that  his  "  eye  has  yet  to  rest  on  a 
lovelier  scene  than  that  which  smiles  around  you  as  you  sail  from  Weir's  Landing  to  Centre 
Harbor."  As  we  proceed  northward  the  heights  of  the  White  Mountain  region  loom  up  in 
varied  combinations,  and  but  a  few  miles  beyond  the  Weirs  we  can  see  from  the  train,  beyond 
Lake  Waukawan,  the  peaks  of  Moosilauke,  Plymouth,  Prospect,  Sandwich  Dome,  Tri- 
Pyramid,  White  Face  and  Passaconaway.  Plymouth  is  an  important  town  at  the  junction 
of  the  Pemigewasset  branch  running  up  to  the  Franconia  Notch,  and  is  the  chief  dining 
station  on  the  line.  It  is  quite  a  famous  and  popular  resort,  and  is  located  in  the  midst  of 
beautiful   scenery  and   intervales  broad  and  picturesque,  with  beautiful   scattered  elms, 

(94) 


i 


THK    WHIIK    MOUN'IAINS. 


w 


K  Hamp- 
Concord, 
ay.     The 

through 
Hows  the 
anchester 

the  pic- 
tal  of  the 
ilder  and 
upon    the 
)und  Bay. 
ur  or  five 
ee  Range, 
I,  we  stop 
ill  express 
Ifboro',  on 
d,  even  if 
lie  heights 
his  efforts. 
le  shadows 
izes.     The 
egion,  and 

rest  on  a 
g  to  Centre 
loom  up  in 
lin,  beyond 
5ome,  Tri- 
le  junction 
hief  dining 
he  midst  of 
tered  elms, 


backed  by  the  soft  blue  of  the  distant  mountains.  The  main  line  ascends  the  valley  of 
Balcer's  River,  between  Mount  Stinson  on  tiie  ri),dil,  and  tlie  Motiiit  Carr  range  on  the 
left.     Passing  Warren,  a  small  but  very  interesting  village,  with  numerous  brooks  and 


,--/fy.= 


s«*''2r'' 


'*..^Zi^- 


r.-~  ,-,.^.,, ........  ■  '""^--•-••'£^:,;3i«r.^-^_       ,„»:i.- -4;.. *■'«:. 


vi-B:S- 


Blni'|.^y*  Vl«w  of  th«  Whit*  Mountdnt, 


picturesque  cascades  in  the  vicinity,  and  with  the  massive  form  cf  Moosilauke  (to  which 
stages  run  from  this  station)  looming  up  on  the  right,  and  lesser  mountains  on  the  left,  we 
soon  reach  Warren  Summit,  the  highest  point  on  the  line,  1,063  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
150  miles  from  Boston.     As  the  descent  to  the  Connecticut  Valley  is  commenced,  the 


\'X 

1:1 


■•■piUl^iuUIIIIMlLa 


9tJ 


lkt)M    (  TIY     iO    Sl'kl 


Ixild  cliffs  of  Owl's  Heud  ure  seen  upon  tlic  ri^ht  ;  and  lookiiix  buckwurd,  tin-  lofty 
mountains  remain  in  sijjht  for  several  miles. 

The  views  alon^  the  Connecticut  Valley  l)y  Haverhill,  Woodsville  and  Wells  River, 
where  connection  is  made  with  llie  I'assumpsic  and  Connecticut  Valley  roads,  are  exceed- 
ingly pictures(jue.  We  pass  through  Hath,  whence  sta;;cs  run  to  Swiftwater  and  other 
points  up  the  Wild  Ammonoosnc ;  I.ishon,  a  town  of  2,000  inhabitants  and  good  hotels 
(for  that  matter,  good  hotels  and  excellent  boardinji  houses  with  very  reasonable  rates 
abound  throughout  this  region);  Littleton,  a  pretty  town  of  .?,ooo  people,  whence  stages 
run  six  miles  to  Franconia.  in  the  valley  south  of  Mount  Agassiz.  Five  miles  beyon<l  th»« 
White  Mountains  trains 
diverge  from  the  main 
line  at  W'ing  Road, 
where  a  fine  view  of 
Mount  Lafayette  and 
the  Twin  Mountains  is 
had  from  the  station. 
At  this  point  are  met 
the  trains  that  come 
over  the  Vermont  Di- 
vision of  the  line  from 
Rouse's  Point  via  St. 
Johnsbury,  bearing  the 
Wagner  palace  sleep- 
ing cars  that  run  from 
Niagara  Falls  and  Sus- 
pension Bridge  over  the 
Rome,  Watertown  & 
Ogdensburg  Railroad, 
to  Fabyans  and  Port- 
land. Here  also  come 
the  passengers  who 
have  gone    down    the  °"'''  ""•*  ""'  *"'0"i«"'<«' 

St.  Lawrence  River,  or  over  the  Canadian  Pacific  to  Montreal,  and  thence  via  the  South- 
eastern and  Passumpsic  Railroads,  dining  at  Newport,  and,  if  they  be  wise  and  not  unduly 
hurried,  taking  a  steamboat  trip  on  Lake  Memphremagog  to  the  northern  end  and  back, 
stopping  to  climb  the  Owl's  Head,  from  which,  says  Trollope,  "  the  view  down  upon  the 
lakes  and  forests  around,  and  on  the  wooded  hills  below,  is  wonderfully  lovely." 

Six  miles  beyond  Wing  Road,  on  the  main  line,  is  Whitefield,  from  which  point  a  branch 
road  runs  ten  miles  to  Jefferson,  in  some  sense  the  rival  of  Bethlehem  on  account  of  its 
situation,  pure  air,  and  general  healthfulness.  Sufferers  from  hay  fever  and  catarrhal  com- 
plaints find  instantaneous  relief.  The  outlook  from  the  chief  village,  Jefferson  Hill,  upon 
the  Presidential  Range,  with  Mounts  Adams  and  Jefferson  in  the  foreground,  is  extremely 


TIIK   WHlTli   MOUNTAINS. 


VI 


le 


lofty 


4  River, 
cxrtctl- 
111  other 
il  hotels 
ble  rates 
;e  stages 
lyond  the 


the  South- 
not  unduly 
and  back, 
m  upon  the 

f." 

int  a  branch 
:count  of  its 
tarrhal  com- 
m  Hill,  upon 
is  extremely 


The  Profile. 


grand  ;  and  Starr  King  declart-d  that  this  piate  "may,  without  cxuKj^eration,  he  called  the 
li/tima  Thule  of  grandeur  in  aii  artist's  pilj^rimaye  among  the  New  Mamiishiro  umunt- 
ains;  for  at  no  other  point  can  he  see  the  White  Mills  themselves  in  such  array  and 
force."  Ff)ur  miles  up  the  White  Mountain 
Branch  is  ilethlehem  Junction.  .\  narrow- 
gauge  roail  diverges  here  four  miles  to 
the  chief  eastern  hay  fever  resort,  Bethle- 
hem,  a  beautiful  little  village  lying  on  the 
Lower  Ammonoosuc  River,  1,450  feet 
above  the  sea,  in  the  evening  shadows  of 
Mount  Agassiz,  and  commanding  a  pan- 
oramic view  of  unsurpassed  grandeur. 
The  whole  horizon  is  fretted  with  mount- 
ains. A  carriage  road  has  been  built  to 
the  suniniit  of  Mount  Agassi/,  and  tho 
walk  is  but  a  mile  and  three-quarters. 
Another  narrow  gauge  runs  ten  miles  to 
the  Profile  House,  near  the  north  end  of 
the  Franconia  Notch,  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  Profile,  Echo  and  Moran  Lakes,  Kagle  Cliff,  I,a  Fayette,  Hall  and  Cannon 
Mountains,  the  Flume,  the  Pool,  the  Basin  and  the  Profile  of  the  Old  Man  of  the 
Mountain.  The  ten-mile  walk  or  the  stage-coach  ride  through  the  Notch  is  a  most  delight- 
ful one,  flanked  as  it  is  by  the  grand 
mountains  and  precipices,  and  the 
tumbling  waters  upon  either  hand  all 
the  way  from  the  Profde  House  to 
North  Woodstock,  the  terminus  of 
the  Pemigevvassett  Valley  Branch  to 
Plymouth,  twenty  miles  distant. 
From  Campton  village,  a  magnificent 
view  opens  up  Mad  River  Valley,  with 
Tri-pyramid  and  Sandwich  Dome  in 
the  distance. 

Seven  miles  above  Bethlehem 
Junction,  on  the  White  Mountain 
Branch,  is  the  Twin  Mountain 
House,  a  famous  hostelry.  Five 
miles  beyond  is  Fabyans,  only  six 
Th«  Flume,  Franeonii  Notch.  milcs  from  the  base  of  Mount  Wash- 

ington, and  the  central  point  of  the  White  Mountain  region,  from  which  all  others  may  be 
easily  and  conveniently  reached.  Half  way  to  the  base  of  Mount  Washington  are  the  Upper 
Ammonoosuc  Falls,  well  worthy  a  visit.      From  Ammonoosuc  Station  to  the   Summit,  it   is 


r 


98 


FROM    CITY   TO    SURF. 


three  miles  by  the  wonderful  Mount  Washington  Railway,  which  has  an  average  grade  of 
1,300  feet  to  the  mile.  It  takes  an  hour  and  a  half  to  make  the  ascent,  the  view  constantly 
expanding,  and  gaining  in  beauty  and  sublimity  ;  but  the  descent  is  accomplished  much 
more  rapidly,  and  both  in  perfect  safety.  Only  Starr  King  has  given  an  adequate  state- 
ment of  the  magnificent  scene  from  the  summit,  6,293  ^cet  above  the  sea,  and  his  detailed 
description  is  unquotable.  Across  the  Great  Gulf  are  seen  the  massive  peaks  of  Jefferson, 
Adams  and  Madison  ;  and  to  the  southwest  the  scarcely  less  elevations  of  Monroe, 
Franklin,  Clinton,  Jackson  and  Webster.  Katahdin  and  Monadnock  are  seen  in  the  distance, 
and  Winnipesaukee  gleams  far  off  in  the  sunlight.  On  the  summit  of  the  mountain  is  a 
hotel,  a  station  of  the  U.  S.  Signal  Service,  and  a  printing  office,  where  an  edition  of  the 
most  elevated  paper  iu  the  world, 
A»ion>;  the  Clouds,  is  printed  soon 
after  the  arrival  of  every  train.  On 
the  opposite  side  from  the  railway, 
one  may  descend  the  carriage  road 
to  the  Glen  House  on  the  left,  or 
into  Tuckermans  Ravine  on  the 
right,  often  finding  snow  arches  still 
remaining  in  its  wild  recesses,  uncon- 
scious of  summer's  coming. 

From  Fabyans  to  Portland,  the 
route  is  by  the  Portland  &  Ogdens- 
burg  Railroad,  passing  through  the 
Crawford  Notch  in  "observation 
cars,"  open  at  the  sides,  and  furnished 
with  revolving  seats,  affording  a  pan- 
oramic view  of  scenery  remarkable 
for  beauty,  variety  and  grandeur. 
The  view  from  Mount  Willard  at 
the  gate  of  the  Notch,  near  Craw- 
ford's, TroUope  declared  to  be 
unequaled  in  all  the  classic  Rhine- 
land,  and  Bayard  Taylor  that  "  It 
can  not  be  surpassed  in  Switzerland."  Near  by  are  Hitchcock's  Flume,  Saco,  Ethan's 
and  Howe's  ponds,  Gibbs',  Ripley's  and  Arethusa  Falls  and  Beecher's  Cascades.  Silver 
Cascade  and  Flume  Cascade  leap  down  the  sides  of  Mount  Webster,  and  all  the  way  down 
ths  valley  of  the  upper  Saco  River  are  vistas  of  great  beauty  and  picturesqueness.  At  Glen 
.  Station,  connection  is  made  with  the  stage  I'ne  for  the  Glen  House  up  Ellis  River  Valley, 
and  through  Pinkham  Notch.  This  will  be  found  a  delightful  drive,  and  indeed,  through- 
out this  whole  region  the  traveler  will  find  the  old-fashioned  stage  coach  penetrating  the 
mountain  fastnesses  where  the  iron  horse  has  not  yet  ventured,  and  where  nature  'u  found 
wearing  her  mos;  winning  as  well  as  her  wildest  aspects.     Seven  miles  beyond  Jackson,  on 


'SSL 


THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


99 


grade  of 
mstantly 
;d  much 
te  state- 
detailed 
[efferson, 
Monroe, 
distance, 
itain  is  a 
on  of  the 


i/ 


this  road,  a  path  leads  to  the  Glen  Ellis  Falls,  quite  near  the  road,  and  a  little  farther  on  is 
the  entrance  to  the  Crystal  Cascade.  The  former,  one  of  the  loveliest  cascades  in  the 
entire  region,  sildes  twenty  feet  over  the  cliff  at  a  sharp  angle,  and  then  plunges  sixty  feet 
into  a  dark  pool.  The  latter,  "an  inverted  liquid  plume,"  eighty  feet  high,  is  near  the 
mouth  of  Tuckerman's  Ra- 
vine, and  is  best  seen  not 
from  its  foot,  but  from  a  high, 
moss-covered  bank  opposite. 
Two  miles  from  the  Glen 
House,  on  the  same  road,  are 
a  series  of  picturesque  cas- 
cades called  Thompson's 
Falls,  from  the  upper  one  of 
which  a  most  magnificent 
view  is  obtained  of  Mount 
Washington  and  Tucker- 
man's Ravine.  North  Con- 
way, thirty-one  miles  from 
Fabyans,  is  a  village  of  many 
attractions  and  great  popu- 
larity, in  the  lovely  intervales 
near  Kearsarge  Mountain, 
from  the  easily  attained  summit  of  which  magnificent  and  extensive  views  are  obtained. 
Passing  down  the  smiling  valley  of  the  Saco,  and  through  Fryeburg,  we  skirt  the  wooded 
shore  and  sandy  beach  of  Sebago  Lake,  and  soon  reach  Portland, — 

<•*      «      *       IK      {jig  beautiful  town 
That  is  seated  by  the  sea  ; " — 

ninety-one  miles  from  Fabyans,  where  we  may  take  steamer  or  rail  for  Old  Orchard  beach, 
Mount  Desert  and  Bar  Harbor,  Eastport,  and  other  resorts  on  the  coast  of  Maine  and 
the  maritime  Provinces. 


Through  Crawford  Notch. 


aco,  Ethan's 
ades.     Silver 
he  way  down 
2SS.    At  Glen 
River  Valley, 
eed,  through- 
netrating  the 
iture  is  found 
d  Jackson,  on 


^ 


ft 


LI 


jl.lJUIlliiiMHIJ  .<l('. 


^^CS-t&^.- ^-^^i. -  -iiiiiJC i  :\:..j. 


THE  LUXURY  OF  TRAVEL. 


When  Jason  and  the  Argonauts  started  forth  on  their  famous  e,l>edition  m  search  of 
the  Golden  Fleece,  there  was  no  question  of  comfort  about  their  voyage.    It  was  a  travel  as 
all  travel  was  in  those  early  days,  full  of  discomfort  and  hardship,  to  which  all  manly  muscles 
were  inured.     Indeed,  luxury,  and  even  the  most  primitive  degree  of  com  ort,  was  con- 
Tidered  feminine  or  effeminate.     The  idea  of  luxury  found  its  highest  reahzat.on  m  the 
picture  of  Cleopatra  in  her  gilded  barge  with  perfumed  silken  sails  descending  the  current 
of  the  Nile     But  this  little  noon-day  or  evening  jaunt  was  no  voyage  or  travel         he 
r  lation  of  voyagers,  from  Zenophon  and  Marco  Polo  down  to  Sir  John  Mandev.lle  and 
m  ch   more  modern  days-even  to  those  o,  the  indomitable  Thomas  Stevens,  tell  us     ow 
closely  associated  were  ,.a,„  and  ,,.»,V-worW,  labor,  toil,  with  '<?  --"P--"^; 
heat  and  cold,  dust,  snow  and  ice,  hunger  and  privation  of  every  sort     1  he  stage  coach 
ad  diligence  were  for  a  century  or  two  loudly  vaunted  as  wonderful  -P--"      " 
public  locomotion,  but  they  only  shortened  time  and  distance,  and  but  "'-"-"^ JJ^"; 
Led  the  condition  of  the  unhappy  traveler  whose  business  or  ambmon  tor.  h,m  from  the 
comforts  of  home  to  find  at  intervals  the  uncertain  ones  of  the  ways,de  ,nn. 

Let  us  come  down  so  late  as  but  httle  more  than  fifty  years  ago  and  read,  m  Andrew 
Carnegie's  Tnu^fHan,  Dm^ra^,  of  Philo  Carpenter's  journey  frorn  Troy  «  «'-*.o  " 
.83.-  .He  took  the  Erie  Canal  to  Buffalo,  and  thence  wen.  by  lake  steamer  toDetrct 
Four  and  a  half  days  was  the  usual  time  for  this  passage.  From  Detro,.  Mr.  Carpente 
Ltby  weekly  maLoach  to  Niles,  and  then  took  passage  from  N.les  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Itjo^ph  Riv'r  on  a  natboat;  thence  he  was  conveyed  by  two  Indians  m  a  bark  ^noe 
which  they  improvised,  as  tar  as  the  Calumet,  where  one  of  the  Ind,ans  was  served  w,.h  a 
Tollc  and  they  refused  lo  proceed  further.    Our  -.ravcler  then  bargained  w,th  a  settler  for 


w 


ym  y^jii|i 


THE    LUXURY   OF  TRAVEL. 


search  of 
a  travel,  as 
ily  muscles 
,  was  con- 
ition  in  the 
the  current 
avel.     The 
deville  and 
;ell  us  how 
miments  of 
stage  coach 
jvements  in 
ibly  amelio- 
in^  from  the 

,  in  Andrew 
Chicai,o  in 
r  to  Detroit, 
r.  Carpenter 
louth  of  the 
bark  canoe, 
leized  with  a 
I  a  settler  for 


101 


the  use  of  a  lumber  wagon  drawn  by  oxen,  and  with  this  he  eventually  reached  Fort 
Dearborn,  as  Chicago  was  then  called.  The  limited  express  now  does  this  journey  in 
twenty-four  hours,  and  the  traveler  never  has  to  leave  his  peripatetic  hotel." 

It  was  in  the  same  year  that  the  Norwegian  traveler,  Arfedson,  writing  of  his  American 
tour,  earnestly  recommended  all  stage-coach  travelers  to  "make  the  necessary  preparations 
for  a  hard  and  rough  campaign";  and  about  this  time  the  railroad  began  to  compete  with 
the  canal  boat  and  the  stage  coach.  Wonderful  improvement  as  it  was,  it  was  many  years 
before  the  physical  comfort  of  the  traveler  en  route  was  very  much  increased.  Travel  was 
safer,  surer,  more  rapid,  and  comparatively  unaffected  by  inclement  weather,  from  which 
the  traveler  was  protected.  The  worst  of  the  wayside  inns  and  country  taverns  were 
escaped,  and  the  largest  towns  could  be  reached  without  danger  of  starving  by  the  way. 
Comfort,  absolute  as  well  as  relative,  came  with  the  invention  of  the  sleeping  car,  made 
necessary  by  the  magnificent  distances  of  our 
broad  Republic — one  more  boon  to  the  long  list 
of  America's  gifts  to  mankind,  in  which  figure 
the  sewing  machine,  the  telegraph,  the  tele- 
phone, the  typewriter,  the  screw  propeller,  and 
a  hundred  other  scarcely  less  useful  fruits  of 
Yankee  fertility  of  invention. 

The  first  sleeping  car,  designed  by  T.  T. 
Woodruff,  would  seem  crude  and  rough  indeed 
beside  one  of  these  magnificent  and  luxurious 
Wagner  cars,  well  worthy  the  adjective  palatial. 
So  would  the  stage-coach-bodied  cars  of  the 
first  railroad  train  or  the  old  Michigan  Central 
coach  of  1848,  beside  the  perfectly  appointed  Crossing  open  pi«tfornn«. 

vehicle  of  to-day,  with  its  softly  cushioned  and  richly  upholstered  seats  with  luxurious 
head-rests,  most  inviting  to  the  invalid  or  weary  traveler,  its  rare  woods  and  tasteful 
decorations,  its  plate-glass  windows,  its  artistic  iron,  brass  and  other  metal  work,  its  wire- 
screened  ventilators,  its  stained  glass,  electric  bells  from  every  berth  and  state-room,  steam 
heat,  brilliant  illumination,  and  its  cozy  smoking  room.  But  once  invented,  improvement 
was  rapid,  and  ingenious  devices  tending  to  the  increase  of  comfort,  health,  and  safety 
multiplied,  and  every  convenience  that  could  be  thought  of  and  that  the  highest  skill  could 
adapt  were  included  in  this  "  peripatetic  hotel,"  as  Mr.  Carnegie  aptly  called  it,  until 
it  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  the  traveler  is  surrounded  by  every  comfort  that  can 
be  asked  for. 

We  Americans  have  become  so  accustomed  to  these  things  that  we  accept  them  like  the 
air  we  breathe,  as  a  matter  of  course,  but  every  European  traveler  in  our  country,  from  the 
indefatigable  TroUope  down  to  Tissandier,  Bigot,  and  Blouet,  is  struck  with  their  number 
and  their  ingenuity,  and  the  lavishness  with  which  all  the  resources  of  science  and 
mechanical  skill,  employed  with  a  deftness  unknown  abroad,  are  drawn  upon  for  the  use  of 


■91 


102 


FROM   CITV    TO   SURF. 


the  uncrowned  kings  of  the  great  American  Republic.     This  is  what  the  famous  novelist 
wrote  to  the  London  T'imes  of  his  trip  from  Niagara  Fails  to  Detroit: 

"  In  making  this  journey  at  night  we  introduced  ourselves  to  the  thoroughly  American 
invention  of  sleeping  cars — that  is,  of  cars  in  which  beds  are  made  up  for  travelers.  I  con- 
fess I  have  always  taken  a  delight  in  seeing  these  beds  made  up,  and  consider  that  the 
operations  of  the  change  are  generally  as  well  executed  as  the  maneuvers  of  any  panto- 
mime at  Drury  Lane.  The  work  is  usually  done  by  negroes,  or  colored  men,  and  the 
domestic  negroes  of  America  are  always  light-handed  and  adroit.  The  nature  of  an 
American  car  is  no  doubt  known  to  all  men.  It  looks  as  far  removed  from  all  bedroom 
accommodation  as  the  baker's  barrow  does  from  the  steam  engine  into  which  it  is  to  be 
converted  by  harlequin's  wand.  But  the  negro  goes  to  work  much  more  quietly  than  the 
harlequin,  and  for  every  four  seats  in  the  railway  car  he  builds  up  four  beds,  almost  as 
quickly  as  the  hero  of  the  pantomine  goes  through  his  performance.     The  great  glory  of 

the  Americans  is  in  their  wondrous  contrivances, 
in  the  patent  remedies  for  the  usually  troublous 
operations  of  life.  Everything  is  done  by  a  new 
and  wonderful  patent  contrivance;  and  of  all  their 
wonderful  contrivances,  that  of  their  railroad 
beds  is  by  no  means  the  least.  For  every  four 
seats  the  negro  builds  up  four  beds — that  is,  four 
half  beds,  or  accommodation  for  four  persons. 
Two  are  supposed  to  be  below  on  the  level  of  the 
ordinary  four  seats,  and  two  up  above  on  shelves, 
which  are  let  down  from  the  roof.  Mattresses 
slip  out  from  one  nook  and  sheets  and  pillows 
from  another.  Blankets  are  added  and  the  bed 
is  ready." 

A  visit  to  the  Wagner  Car  Works  would 
surprise  any  intelligent  traveler,  who  gives  no 
thought,  as  he  uses  the  perfect  manufactured 
product,  of  the  labor,  and  skill,  and  money  necessary  to  produce  it  from  the  raw 
material  gathered  from  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  It  is  now  but  eighteen  months 
since  the  Wagner  Palace  Car  Company  purchased  \  large  tract  of  land  at  East  Buffalo 
and  erected  upon  it  extensive  works  for  the  manufacture  of  its  cars,  thoroughly  com- 
plete in  every  branch  and  feature,  and  filled  with  near  a  thousand  of  the  most  skillful 
artisans  under  the  most  experienced  and  able  superintendence.  Here  castings  are  made 
from  the  pig  or  ingot  metal,  glass  is  silvered  and  ground,  the  rare  Spanish  mahogany, 
used  in  interior  decoration,  is  worked,  and  polished,  and  carved,  and  fitted.  The 
shriek  of  the  lathe  and  the  chisel  are  heard  as  the  solid  iron  or  steel  is  turned,  and 
planed,  and  bored,  and  punched  ai  a  piece  of  wood.  A  feature  that  strikes  the  visitor 
forcibly  is  the  rigid   insistance,  everywhere  and  in  every  detail,  upon   the  best,  both  in 


End  View  of  •  Veitibule. 


lillllteiL—WllUMilvi 


THE   LUXURY   OF   TRAVEL. 


108 


novelist 

Ltnerican 
I  con- 
•  that  the 
y  panto- 
and  the 
e    of    an 
bedroom 
is  to  be 
than  the 
almost  as 
t  glory  of 
itrivances, 
troublous 
by  a  new 
jf  all  their 
r    railroad 
every  four 
lat  is,  four 
r   persons. 
;vel  of  the 
on  shelves, 
Mattresses 
nd  pillows 
id  the  bed 

rks    would 
J  gives  no 
inufactured 
»m  the  raw 
;en   months 
;ast  Buffalo 
ughly  com- 
nost  skillful 
;s  are  made 
mahogany, 
itted.      The 
turned,  and 
s  the  visitor 
l>esi,  both  in 


material  ami  workmanship.  A  Wagner  palace  sleeping  car  is  subjected  to  greater 
strain  and  wear  than  any  other  piece  of  cabinet  making,  and  consequently  nothing  but  the 
best  will  stand  the  test.  The  demand  is  not  merely  for  a  good  article,  but  in  all  ca.ses  for 
the  very  best  that  can  be  made  or  bought,  and  this  is  justly  deemed  to  be  the  surest 
econom  in  the  end.  Not  a  piece  of  oak  or  mahogany,  of  iron  or  steel,  of  glass  or  of 
rubber,  not  a  piece  of  Lyons  velvet  or  silk,  of  Irish  linen,  nor  a  blanket  of  Australian  or 
Californian  wool,  but  must  pass  the  severest  inspection.  The  result  is  that  in  strength, 
combining  solidity  and  elasticity  of  construction,  in  beauty  of  decoration,  in  perfection  of 
finish  and  of  furnishing,  the  Wagner  cars  are  unequaled.  Nothing  is  more  strongly  marked 
than  the  perfection  of  taste  that 
characterizes  all  the  designs  and  de- 
corations. The  old  days  of  vulgar 
roccoco  and  over-ornamentation  are 
past,  never  to  return.  Materials  are 
rich.  ^Examination  m.akes  it  evident 
that  no  expense  has  been  spared. 
But  colors  are  soft  and  harmonious, 
gilding  is  conspicuous  only  by  its 
absence,  the  carving  is  hand  work, 
and  everything  bears  the  unosten- 
tatious imprint  of  a  thoroughly 
artistic  hand. 

Besides  the  new  cars  now  being 
rapidly  turned  out,  large  numbers  of 
old  cars — sleeping,  parlor,  buffet,  din- 
ing, and  special,  are  being  constantly 
repaired  and  leave  the  shops,  as  a 
rule,  with  all  the  new  improvements. 
Prominent  among  these  is  the  vesti- 
buled  platform,  an  invention  long  in 
use  on  the  postal  cars,  but  newly 
applied  with  all  the  brilliancy  of  cut 
glass  and  glitter  of  plate,  to  the 
Wagner  palace  cars  and  the  new  Michigan  Central  coaches.  The  steel  frames  for  these, 
which  give  the  needed  strength,  are  not  cast,  but  are  cut  out  from  rolled  plates,  in  which 
there  is  no  "  weakest  spot  to  stan'  the  strain."  These  vestibules,  with  doors  opening  upon 
the  steps  and  lighted  by  night  with  the  soft  radiance  of  electricity,  form  a  richly  carpeted 
connection  between  the  cars,  so  that  a  child  may  safely  play  or  a  lady  safely  pass  from 
one  end  of  the  train  to  the  other  without  danger  of  being  violently  blown  to  the  ground 
or  suffering  discomfort  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather  or  the  derangement  of 
the  toilet.     The  train  is,  in  fact,  practically  a  series  of  apartments  en  suite,  suitable  for  the 


Interior  of  the  Dining  Ctr. 


mm 


104 


FROM   CITY   TO   SURF. 


entertainment  of  a  large  household  with  varied  tastes,  perfectly  furnished,  brilliantly  lighted, 
thoroughly  heated  and  admirably  ventilated,  and  lull  of  ingenious  devices  that  promote 
the  comfort  and  enjoyment  of  the  occupants.  _ 

When  the  experienced  traveler  has  slept  the  sleep  of  the  innocent  and  the  just,  has 
read    the   morning  papers,  the  latest  novel,  the  new  magazine  or  some   standard  work 
from  the  well-chosen  library  on  board,  has  written  his  letters  and  telegrams,  has  smoked 
his  cigars    and  chatted  with  his  fellow  travelers,  he  invariably   seeks  the  height  of   his 
day's  enjoyment  in  the  dining  car.     The   Michigan   Central  was  the  pioneer   Eastern 
dining  car  line,  and  has  always  enjoyed  the  highest  reputation  for  the  quality  of   its 
cuisine  and  the   character  of   its   service.     The  managers  and  the   commissary  of  the 
Wagner   company  thoroughly   comprehend   the   wide    difference    between  feeding   and 
dining.     The  menu,  though  ample,  is  not  overloaded  and  crowded  by  a  wilderness  of 
dishes  through  which  the  traveler  wanders  in  unsuccessful  search  for  the  palatable,  but  the 
viands  are  choice,  embracing  the  luxuries  of  the  best  markets,  prepared  by  an  experienced 
(hef  and  served  by  deft-handed  waiters  upon  dainty  china  and  snowy  linen  in  the  most 
tempting  style.     Nothing  is   wanting  to   the  enjoyment  of  the   most  fastidious   as  he 
leisurely  discusses  the  successive  courses,  or  sips  his  well-selected  wine,  glancing  from  time 
to  time  at  the  pleasing  scenery  that  glides  swiftly  by  the  broad  plate-glass  window,  until 

Serenely  full,  the  epicure  shall  say, 
"Fate  cannot  harm  me,   I  have  dined  to-day." 


n 


ly  lighted, 
;  promote 

e  just,  has 
lard  work 
IS  smoked 
;ht   of  his 
r   Eastern 
ility  of  its 
iry  of  the 
eding  and 
derness  of 
jle,  but  the 
xperienced 
1  the  most 
ious   as  he 
r  from  time 
ndow,  until 


'Phe  grunswick 


Boston's  Grandi'-st  Hoii:l. 
American  Plan. 

HAHXES  &-^DL'XA'L£E,  Propricton. 


o 


I* 
*=  I 

S  ■& 

1 1. 

1^ 


CI 


European'  Plan 


^he  \/ictoria, 


I 


■a 


1* 
M 

e  at 

o  w 

•^  a 

.  «»■ 

|: 

•II 

I 

o 

I 


Boston,    Mass. 


BARNES  A  DUNKLEE,  Proprietors. 


-)  AI.80  (- 


UfvfAl  13rkn«kmah  Amherat  station,  >'ew  Hampaliire,  48  milua  from  Bo><ton,  bv  B.  <Ss  L.  K.  R.  Ojtcn 
X^AULCl  i  UllCIliail|  July  to  Novrinbcr.  This  beantiful  Hnd  rlegaiilly  fnmiBtied  hotel  Ib  situated  among  the  hills 
of  Xew  HampHhire,  on  high  elevation,  commnnding  views  of  grent  l)eauty,  and  offers  rare  Inducements  to  those  who  appreciate 
the  comforts  of  a  first-class  hotel.  Pure  air,  and  pure  wiilcr  from  the  celebrated  Poncmah  Spring,  and  in  the  midst  of  groves 
of  maple,  oak  and  chestnut.  For  particulars,  addreBi^ 

^    ^     . _„    _  BARNES  A  DUNKLH,  Proprietors, 

Or  C.  A.  QLKASON,  Managar,  Hotel  Viotoria,  Boston. 


iii^iniiTT-  '""' "'  ■""■-"■^ 


» I  irnill»*i|»W«w»ti 


■  ■.ijiipiwiliiiiiiniriiiipni  "I     I    J     ""'"' 


B 


Y  REFERENCE  TO  MAP 

on  opposite  page  yoii  will  observe  the  New  York 

Terminus  of   the    New  York  Central  &  Hudson 

River  Railroad  is  at  the  Murray  Hill  Hotel. 


—  HUIMXIIMO  AND    HAMMOISIO.' 


TS. 


No  Carriage  H^RE! 


No  Baggage  Charges! 


As  Patrons  of  the  Murray  Hill  Hotel  have  their  Baggage  Transferred 
to  and  from  the  Grand  Central   Depot  free.     The 

Only  First-Class  Hotel  in  New  York  City 


ON     BOTH 


American  and  European  Plans. 


nmtt^»^'- 


">. 


m 

l"*^- 


^■fV'V"-!.^'  I"-'.**" 


TXX 


Great  Four  Track  Route. 

fsjew  York  (^entral 


.A.lT'D 


Hudson  River  R  R. 


THE  ROUTE  OF  THE 

"Fast   Hail''-^ ^ 

AND  THE  FAMOUS 

**  Niagara  Falls  Route." 

Two  of  the  four  tracks  are  dovoted  excluelvely  to 
PassetiRer  Trains.    Thie,  In  connection  with  the 
easy  grades,  light  curves,  and  superior  con- 
struction, makes  the  New  York  Central 
and  Hudson  River  Railroad 

THE  aAFBST,  QUIOKIST,  AND 

MOST  OOMFORTA  BLKROUTI 

BETWMN 

New  York  or  Boston  and  the  West. 

The  NIacara  Tall*  Ronte  ts  oyer  the  Wew  Torli  Central  4k 
Hudaon  Blver  Katlroad  In  connection  with  the  Mlohlnn  Central 
Hauroad.  croaains  Nlacara  Slyer  on  the  celebrated  Cantilever 
Brldee  within  a  few  hundred  yarda  of  the  Falla.  All  tralna  atop 
five  nilnutea  at  Falla  View  ataUon.  at  the  verae  of  the  great  cata- 
act,  and  in  full  view  of  the  raplda  iuat  above  the  Valla. 


All  trains  airWe  at  and  depart  fromtheOrancl  Central  Station,  Sew 
Yorki  the  lui'tce.t  and  Bneat  Hallway  Station  In  America. 


tM£M*t  ttn»»MM*0M0f*0****' 


New  Wagner  Sleeping  Cars 

Bun  regularly  to  and  from 

NBW  YORK  AND  BOSTON, 

And  make  direct  connection 
to  and  ft-om 

Buffalo,  Cleveland,       St.  Paul, 

Niagara  Falls,     Cincinnati,      Manitoba, 
Toronto,  Indianapolis,     Denver, 

Detroit,  St.  Louis,  Texas, 

Portland,         Salt  Lake,         Kansas  City, 
San  Francisco,  etc. 

For  Time  Tablee  or  information  call  on  nearest  .,    ^ 

Ticket  AgentH  of  the  BoMton  tt  Albany,  New  •    .•;> 

York  Central,  the  Michlsan  Central,  or  ad-  •  -Jlm.^ 

dre»B 

M.  G.  ROACH.       HENRY  MONETT. 

Ota'l  lait'a  FtM.  Agent,      Oea'l  Fhi.  Afeat, 

No. «i:i  Broadway.    New  York  Citj.  Graad  Central  ■tatlon 


J»t»flh' 


TH«  WOBI.D-FAMBD  IHTOSON  BIV»U 


■  liiiiiMiai  ■>  ' 


THE 


'•j?t»«V*  ' 


Boston  Sc  Albany 


•^f^'?^' 


*»V"i. 


IS  THE 

Only  Double  Track  Route 

■  KTWCCN 

NEWENSLAND 
AND  THE  WEST. 


It  Ih  well  known  to  t)ii>  irnTrllnK  pnhlle 
anronil>liilnc  >ll  tlii^  €i>nif<irtii  niul 
4)oiiv«tiii«nc«<» known  tu  Amer- 
ican rHilrondi,  and  travcncii 
a  nountrr   noted   for   Uh 
pIctureHqnv  and  bcaii- 
llful  Rcenury. 

Waper  Palace  Sleeping  Cars 

Through  Without  Change,  from 

BOSTON.  DETROIT  and  0HICA80. 

via  Nt'W  York  Tentral  and 
Mlcbitjan  Central, 

-•THE  MIAOMRM  FMLLS  ROUTE/' 


A.  a.  HANSON, 

(len.  ruBH.  Atffiit,  HnMtiiii, 


KING  TOILET  PAPERS 


KINO  PACKAGE. 


Th«  KINO  PACKAGE 
la  mado  of  cnt  aheeta  of 
tlmiuo  of  suitable  i<lEe, 
■lightly  attachrd  to  cnch 
other.  By  removing  ono 
sheet,  another  fulls  Into  po- 
■ttlon,  and  so  on  till  tlin  en- 
tire package  is  nitod,  expos- 
ing the  sheet  nearly  Ita  en- 
tire length  so  that  It  may  be 
seized  with  the  band,  aa 
shown  in  the  illustration. 
This  may  be  used  equnliy 
well  without  other  holder 
than  a  book  or  nail  to  hang 
It  on,  but  when  used  in 
hotels  and  other  public 
Itlaces  we  recommend  the 
Metal  Fixture,  as  the  pajier 
can  only  be  taken  from  It 
one  sheet  at  a  time. 


Manufactured  ONLY  by 


OVAL  KINO. 

Tlio  OVAL    KINO 
Toilet  PaiK-T  is  adapted 
for  any  purpoet<  wheni 
toilet  papiT  Ib  UBcd,  and 
es]>ecially  in  hotclH  and  otluT  pub- 
lic biiildingx.    When  iv  piece  Is 
torn  ofif,  the  roll  Hwingg  against 
the  cutter  back  of  the  roll,  return- 
ing to  its  position  ready  for  the 
next  operation,  as  shown  in  the  cut. 
The  lengths  are  measured  by  the 
fixture,  and  every  piece  must  be 
torn  off  Bcparatr'y. 


Morgan  Envelope  Company, 


Sold  by  Druggists  and  Stationers. 


SPRINGFIELD,  MASS. 


Miiittii,!  ii  I   .nwm 


17 


E.  C.  CI,A.RK.  rre^ilcni. 

NV.  F.  llUKOliN,  Vlce-rresident. 


J.   J,  SI,OCUM,  Be<V  am!  Treai. 
g.  W.  McMUNN,  bupcriuteaUuii, 


Consolidated 

Coupling 

Company, 

173   BROADWAY, 

New  York. 


MANUFACTURERS  OK  THE 


Qowling  Coupler 


FOR 


Freight  and  Passenger  Cars. 


■^^iummmm 


ilgHIWiMMHiKii"* ■ "■' 


nnil  Treai. 

Clll. 


<7/./^.    '/.  El. I. IS,  I'nsKUnt. 

WAl.TLK  M(QLt:E\.  r„r./'n.ml,nt. 


/.nil  .IA'I>  1:1. 1. IS,    rnnxuivr. 
ALliEKT  J,  riTKJX,  Suft. 


ny 


ler 


Schenectady  Locomotive  Works, 

SCHENECTADY,  N.  Y. 


~i"^;yjJS^  ^"-i'  -"  1 '  ^^  wr .  !* 


(0 

Ok 

flCU 


3 

4 

o  . 

a* 
10 

3  U  J 


w  "  Z 
■  O  « 

a  .1  S 

k  ■  ■■ 

•  Of 


oE 


li 


D 


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p 


PI 


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5 


a. 


u 


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1  i 


< 
Z 


O    u 
ki 


T 


HE  •  WAYNE 

DETROIT,  MICH. 

An  Elegant  New  Hotel  of  200  Rooms. 

Opened  December  ist,  1887. 

Situated  Directly  Opposite  the  Main  Entrance 

of  the  Michigan  Central  Passenger  Depot, 

from  which  Baggage  is  taken  to  and 

from   without   e'xtra  charge. 

PRICES: 

On  the  American  Plan,     $2.50  to  $3.50  per  Day. 
••      European  Plan,      $1.00  to  $2.50      «' 

Rooms  with  Baths,  50c.  Extra. 


W.  P.  F.  MESERVE, 

Proprietor. 


The  Clifton  House, 

Niagara  Ralls, 

n  TANDS  directly  in  front  of  the  new  Jubilee  Park,  and  also  faces  the  State  Reservation 
O  the  situation  of  the  hotel  being  acknowledged  the  finest  at  Niagara.  The  Clifton 
has  the  e^c/usive  advantage  of  being  the  only  hotel  from  all  apartments  and  every  veranda 
of  which  there  is  a  full  and  unobstructed  view  of  the  Falls.  This  is  a  fact  of  importance 
to  all  visitors.  The  view  is  grand  in  its  extent  and  beauty,  embracing,  as  it  does,  the  islands, 
rapids  and  surrounding  country  for  miles. 

The  highest  National  and  State  sanitary  and  medical  authorities  endorse  Niagara  as 
a  health  resort.  The  air  is  invigorating  and  pure,  the  climate  salubrious,  and  in  summer 
the  temperature  is  kept  delightfully  cool  from  the  spray  of  the  Falls 

The  Clifton  House  is  celebrated  for  its  quiet  elegance  and  many  features  of  comfort 
and  convenience.     The  apartments,  en  suite  or  single,   are  exceptionailv  attractive  in 
appointments,  and  the  cuisine,  service  and  attendance,  superior  in  all  respects. 
Address,  by  mail  or  telegraph, 

GEORGE  M.  COLBURN, 

Niagara  Kails,  N.  Y. 


"fhe  Niagara 


Buffalo,  N.  Y. 


THIS  NEW  and  elegant  Hotel,  the  finest  in  the  City,  and  one  of  the 
I    finest  in  the  United  States,  with  all  modern  improvements,  situated 
in  the  resident  part  of  the  city,  and  commands  fine  views  of  Lake 
Erie  and  the  Niagara  River. 

Spacious  verandas  are  in  front  and  rear.      Those  in  the  rear  are 
connected  with  a  beautiful  Conservatory,  well  stocked  with  rare  plant, 

and  flowers. 

The  house  is  conducted  in  a  strictly  first-lass  manner. 

HENRY  F.  ROESSER, 

Manager. 


•«*/ 


s^d- 


l  one  of  the 
Its,  situated 
vs  of  Lake 

:he  rear  are 
rare  plants 


Fine  PNoor 


Corner  of  Superior  and  Bond  Streets,  one  block  from  Public  Square, 

in  the  most  desirable  part  of  the  city,  and  one  of  the  most 

perfect  and  comfortable  Hotels  in  the  country. 

American  Plan,  $3.00  to  $5.00  per  day. 

European  Plan,  $1 .00  to  $2.50  per  day^ 


J^otel  J^ichelieu. 


Soon  after  the  opening  of  the  Hotel  Richelieu,  the  New   York   World,  after  a  careful 

inspection  of  it,  said: 

THE  Proprietors,  in  opening  tin*  t)eautiful  house  to  tlie  public,  did  more  than  inaugurate  an  inn — thejr 
dedicated  a  home.  There  is  not  one  room,  from  the  lowest  to  the  topmost  floor,  that  is  not  like  a  beau- 
tiful apartment  in  a  sumptuous  house.  The  walls  are  decorated  with  the  finest  works  of  art,  the  beds  are  as 
delicious  resting  places  and  as  daintily  equipped  as  any  couch  of  rest  in  the  palace  of  a  mi.lionaire. 

There  are  no  frayed  and  dusty  carpets,  no  worn  and  threadbare  upholstery,  no  spreads  and  blankets 
eloquent  with  the  record  of  the  departed  ;  everything  is  fresh  and  sweet,  alike  appealing  to  physical  enjoyment 
and  aesthetic  taste.  It  has  been  left  to  the  proprietors  to  strike  the  key-note  of  a  new  departure  in  hotel  living. 
One  can,  in  "  Thb  Richbueu,"  combine  the  ease  of  boarding  with  the  comfort  and  content  of  a  well-ordered 
and  beautiful  home. 

Every  part  or  portion  of  the  entire  house  carries  with  it  the  one  idea  of  comfort  and  contentment,  and  the 
first  exclamation  of  its  visitors  has  invariably  been,  "Oh!  this  does  not  seem  like  a  hotel,  it  has  more  the  appear- 
ance of  an  elegant  home." 

The  proprietors  have  certainly  struck  the  right  chord  grandly,  and  persons  visiting  Chicago  who  seek 
comfort  and  enjoyment  away  from  noise,  and  free  from  everything  objectionable  to  the  best  society,  should  not 
fail  to  give  "  The  Richelieu  "  a  trial,  where  they  will  be  sure  to  receive  the  very  l>est  of  care  and  attention. 

Michigan   Avenue  Boulevard, 

H.  V.  BEMIS.  O  tilOAQO*  A.  S.  OAOB. 


^./ 


:i^ 


iS 


a  careful 


an  ton — they 
lot  like  a  beau- 
the  beds  are  as 

and  blankets 
iical  enjoyment 
in  hotel  living. 

a  well-ordered 

itment,  and  the 
lore  the  appear- 

cago  who  Kek 
iety,  should  not 
attention. 


A.S.  OAOB. 


KIM  AH 


fioinff  East  or  Goinj2[  W('st, 


Who  is  unacquainted  with  the  gcojjraphy  «if  the 
(-nuntry,  will  save  himself  much  time,  trouble  and 
expense,  and  acquire  a  great  deal  of  valuable  information  from  a  careful  study  of  this  map  of  the 


Chicago, 


]\ailway. 


To  and  from  all  the  flourishing  towns  and  cities  designated  on  its  main  lines  and  branches  it  is  the  only 
direct  and  best  route.  It  also  constitutes  the  true  Middle  Link  in  the  chain  of  continuous  trans-continental 
travel,  extending  West,  Southwest  or  Northwest,  via  Chicago,  to  Pacific  Coast  Points  ana  intervening 
localities,  and  in  corresponding  opposite  directions. 


^^d^^ 


PACiriQ 


Daily  Fast  Limited  Express  Trains, 

SAVING  FIVE  HOURS  BETWEEN 

Council  Bluffs,  Kansas  City, 

St.  Joseph  and  Chicago. 

Close  connections  at  those  points  to  Union  Depots  with  corresponding  Fast  Trains, 
reducing  the  distance  between  Chicago  and  San  Francisco  and  Portland,  Oregon,  to 

87  HOURS. 

California  Excursions  Daily.     Round  Trip  Land  Excursion  and  Tourist  Tickets  at  greatly  reduced  rates. 

The  Passenger  Equipment  of  the  entire  system  popularly  known  al  The  Great  Rock  Island  Route 
(consistto^  of  new  and  elegant  Day  Coaches,  Dining  Cars,  Pullman  Palace  Sleeping  Cars  and  Reclining  Chair 
Cars),  is  incomparably  excellent,  fully  realizing  the  most  advanced  ideas,  methods  and  demands  of  modem 
railway  travel. 

Via  the  ''Famous  Albert  Lea" 

To  S^rit  Lake,  Minnetonka,  Minnewaska,  White  Bear  Lake,  and  all  the  Sum- 
mer Resorts,  Watering  Places,  attractive  Scenery,  and  Hunting  and  Fishing 
Grounds  of  Minnesota,  Iowa,  Lake  Superior  and  the  North  and  Northwest. 
Traverses  the  "Great  Wheat  and  Dairy  Belt,"  to  and  from  Sioux  Falls,  Watertown  and 
East  Central  Dakota.  To  all  points  in  Southern  Nebraska,  Interior  Kansas,  Colorado, 
Texas,  the  Indian  Territory  and  beyond,  via  St.  Joseph  and  Kansas  City,  the  CHICAGO, 
KANSAS  &  NEBRASKA  RAILWAY  (Rock  Island  Route),  is  the  most  speedy  and 
direct.  It  courses  through  the  "Golden  Belt,"  comprising  the  richest  lands  of  the 
continent. 

'For  Tickets,  Time  Tables,  Maps,  Land  Folders,  copies  of  Western  Tiail,  or  desired  information  in 
regard  to  Rates,  Routes,  or  Connections,  apply  to  any  Coupon  Ticket  Agent  in  the  United  States  or  Canada, 
or  address  ^ 


E.  ST.  JOHN. 

Oeneml  Manager, 


CHICAGO,  ILL. 


E.  A.  HOLBROOK, 

Ucnernl  Ticket  and  Paasenver  Agent, 


CHicwa 

NICHi 


)K 


HDNDN  ROUTE 


I  lo*iiviiu.NiwAiiMriCiKMi 


y0^    PiinanPilaceCarRinle 

\i/  — 


)K 


IJ^ 


^^«tun«y^ 


BETWEEN 


fto  M  MmMla,  DMXfMrc  SmH,  Mm,  ••>.,  AUm 
■i  O.  ItOOIUIICI,  OmI  fiiimir  AfMt, 


f  hlcogo,    Indianapolis  and  T  ouis^/iIIb 

STRAINS  lAOH  WAY    Q 
*    «     BETWEEN     ,    •  4^ 

Chicagq^Louisvine. 

TOURIST  TICKETS  are  on  sale,  in  season,  at  all  Coupon  Ticket 

Offices  in  the  West  and  Northwest,  to  Jacksonville  and  all 

Florida  Winter  Cities,  via  Chicago  and  the  Monop  Route, 

allowing   choice   of   Pullman  Car  routes  through  either 

Louisville  and  Mammoth  Cave,  or  Cincinnati  and 

the  Old  Battle  Fields.      Send  for  a  "Guide." 

City  Ticket  Office,  y;^  Clark  St. 


mong  the  Northern  Lakes 

O  OF 

Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  Iowa,  Missouri  and  Dakota 

ARE  HUNDREDS  OF 

Delightful  Places  "•^o-^"- 

Pass  the  Summer  Months 

In  quiet  rest  and  enjoyment,  and  return  home  at  the  end  of  the  heated  term  completely 
rejuvenated.      Each  recurring  season  brings  to 

OOOMOIWOWOO,  WAUKESHA,  BEAVER    DAM,   FROIITEHAO,   OKOBOJt,  HOTKL 
ST.  LOUIS,  LAKE  IWIWNETOHKA,  WHITE  BEAR,  EXCELSIOR  SPRIMQS, 

and  innumerable  other  charming  localities  with  romantic  names,  thousands  of  our  best  people  whose  winter 
homes  are  on  either  side  of  Mason  and  Dixon's  line  Elegance  and  comfort  at  a  moderate  cost  can  be 
readily  obtained.  A  list  of  SUMMER  HOMES,  with  all  necessary  informalioo  pertaining  thereto,  is  being 
distributed  by  the 

Chicago,  Milwaukee  dc  St  Paul  Railway, 

and  will  be  sent  FREE  upon  application  by  letter  to 

^  A.  V.  H.  CARPENTER, 

fleneral  Pass«M*r  Agant.  Mllwaukaa.  Wis. 


EEN 


lie. 


upon  Ticket 
LE  and  all 
9  Route, 
)  either 

n  and 


rk  St. 


es 


Dakota 


NJTHS 


iletely 


II.  HOTIL 
IMPS, 

whoM  winter 
9  coit  can  be 
reto,  is  being 


»yi 


Mllwauku.Wls. 


Michigan 

CENTgAL 

D    GONN  EGTIONS 


WAONER   PALACE  SLEEPING  CARS  THROUGH  WITHOUT  CHANCE 

Chicago  to  Buffalo,  New  York,  Boston  and  the  East, 

via  New  York  Central  and  Boston  *  Albany  BaUroads ; 

St.  Louis  to  Buffalo,  New  York,  Boston  and  the  East, 


via  Wabaah,  Klchi«an  Central  and  West  Bhora  BaUroada: 
OSaOAOO  TO  TOBOMTO,  yla  Canadian  Faolflo  Bailway. 


The  Fairy  Isle 

^of  Mackinac, 


LYING   in   the   northern  part  of  Lake  Huron,  near  the  Straits  of   Mackinac,  has,  by 
J  reason  of  its  remarkable  natural  beauty  and  wonderful  salubrity  of  its  atmosphere, 
been  reserved  by  the  United  States  Government  as  a 

National^  Park. 


It  is  also  the  centre  of  some  of  the  finest  fishing  and  hunting  grounds  in  the  country. 

All  this  is  described  and  illustrated  with  considerable  detail  in  a  new  book  with 
the  above  title,  including  some  attractive  sketches  on  the  subject  of  Grayling  Fishing 
and  Deer  Hunting  in  Northern  Michigan.  This  book  will  be  sent  to  any  address,  on 
receipt  of  ten  cents,  by 

O.  W.  RUGGLES, 

General  Passenger  and  Ticlcet  Agent, 


/VllCHIGAN  (TENTRAL 


teS5!S3SI7^'^ 


("The  Mackinac  Route.") 


CHICAGO,  ILL. 


f4 


IT" 


prom  Sea  to  Sea.   ^ 


THH 


Chicago  •« 
North-Western 

Railway 

F'ORMS  an  important  portion  of  the  American 
trans-continental  routes  between  the  Pacific  and 
the  Atlantic.  Passing  through  the  most  enchanting 
scenery  and  the  richest  agricultural  and  manufacturing 
regions,  it  gives  a  panoramic  view  of  the  wealth, 
industry  and  grandeur  of  the  great  West. 

The  carefully  arranged  Train  Service  of  the 
North-Western,  making  close  and  sure  connections 
with  trains  of  other  lines;  its  superb  equipment  of 
Dining  Cars,  Sleeping  Cars  and  Day  Coaches,  to- 
gether with  all  of  the  progressive,  unique  and  popular 
modern  ideas  of  service,  combine  to  place  it  in  the 
front  rank  among  the  railroads  of  the  world. 

For  full  information  as  to  points  reached,  rates 
of  fare,  etc.,  apply  at  any  railroad  ticket  office,  or  to 
the  General  Passenger  Agent  Chicago  &  North- 
Western  Railway,  Chicago. 


J.  M  WHITMAN. 

General  Manager. 


H.  C.  WICKER. 

Traffic  Manager. 


E.  P.  WILSON, 

Gen.  Pass.  Agent 


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Pass.  Agent 


Brown  Brothers  &f  Co, 


New  York,  Philadelphia,  Boston, 


AND 


Alexa     ler    Brown    &    Sons, 

■ALTIMORE. 

Members  of  the  New  York,  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  Stock  Exchange. 

Execute  Orders  for  all  Investment  Securities,  Receive 
Accounts  of  Banks,  Bankers,  Corporations,  and  Firms 
on  favorable  terms. 

^uy  and  Bell  J3ilU  of  ^xcJ^ange 

On  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  Prance,  Germany,  Belgium, 
Holland,  Switzerland,  Norway,  Denmark,  Sweden,  Aus- 
tralia, St.  Thomas,  St  Croix,  and  British  West  Indies. 

Issue  -Ccmmerxial  and  travelers'  -Credits 

In  Sterling,  available  in  any  part  of  the  World;  in 
Francs,  for  use  in  Martinique  and  Guadaloupe;  and  in 
Dollars,  for  use  in  this  country,  Canada,  Mexico,  and 
the  West  Indies. 

Make  Telegraptfic  Transfers  of  Money 

Between  this  Country,  Europe,  and  the  British  and  Danish 
West  Indies. 


Make  -Collections  of  grafts 


Drawn  abroad  on  all  points  in  the  United  States  and 
Canada,  and  of  Drafts  drawn  in  the  United  States  on 
foreign  countries. 


It^eir  Jjondon  ^ouse, 


Messrs.  Brown,  Shipley  &  Co.,  receive  accounts  of 
American  Banks,  Firms,  and  Individuals,  upon  favorable 
terms. 


uverpooi.      Brown,  Shipley  &  Co. 

United  States  GoTernment  Financial  Agents  in  England. 


London. 


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